Extended Thread(ET) Lug Nuts for Aftermarket Wheels

I wanted to share some info I discovered while looking for some extended thread lug nuts for my Icon speed six wheels. I did some searching on here, but could not find a definitive answer or direct resource for a place to order some. After digging around a bit, I discovered a couple of vendors who have options.

Upon my research I found the following:

SCS Lug Nuts:

Pro: Price. Extended thread. Black in color. Spline and Key for theft protection.
Cons: They seem to be out of stock often. Could not determine shipping cost, since I couldn't add them to my cart and check.

Link



Camburg Lug Nuts:

Pro: Price. Extended thread. Black in color. Spline and Key for theft protection.
Cons: Shipping price is RIDICULOUS. They wanted almost $20 for shipping to my state.

Link



Gorilla Lug Nuts:

Pro: Price. Extended thread. Black in color. Spline and Key for theft protection. Available with reasonable shipping costs. Summit racing carries them.
Cons: Not very well known. I was only able to find these after speaking with Gorilla sales dept directly.

Link




I made the decision to order the Gorilla ones off of summit racing, with free shipping, and installed them on my truck. I have had Gorilla lugs on my crawler with no rust issues, which is a big deal to me.



The finished product:



Hopefully this helps someone else.

 

bumping it since we get the same question often.

 

Good info. Just ordered a set of the 26143ETBC.

 

4wheelparts has a set by ProComp that is usable. Same style and length, both in black and chrome. I paid $58 after tax for a set of 24.

A lot of these are the same and just packaged differently...

 

Our lugs will be back in stock in about 1.5wks. Our price does includes shipping for the lugs. It looks like your Gorilla lugs are 2" long which is usually the case for the M14x1.50 size. This length is geared more for the GM trucks with their longer studs. Tundra studs are pretty short so our 1.48" length is perfect looking so that it doesn't stick out the lug bore. Ours is also an 8-spline lugs so it's rarer in a sense while most other brands are 6-spline. Most shops/people will have access to a 6 spline key, but most will not have an 8-spline key around.

 

Curious, why did you want et lug nuts with your Icons? They don’t need them, and I have your et lugs, they bottom out just holding them in the hole. I picked the Icons specifically to avoid et lugs.

 

I got them because the original lugs had minimal thread engagement and since the wheels are not hub-centric, i wanted a little more peace of mind. Also, no bottoming out with my combination. Confirmed with caliper measurements.

 

Good info but the EX thread are good and bad. Good that they have more thread engagement but bad when that extended piece breaks off and you can't get your wheel off.

Had it happen to two of my wheels and 3 different lugs. Also happened to two others on the trail - took a lot of work to get that little piece of metal out of there without damaging the stud so we could change a flat. The proper way for aftermarket wheels is to replace the stock studs with longer studs, but thats a bigger job. I do carry extra studs now just in case I need to replace them for a trail fix.

 

I've seen keys break, but never the lug themselves break like the way you're describing. The keys are meant to break first before the lugs if/when they are over torqued too much. You wouldn't want to have a stripped spline lugs to have to deal with.

 

Think its due to the wheels not being hub centric and the weight is on those extended thread of the lugs. They broke and left that little ring on the stud. Haven't had a key break yet nor have i stripped a splined lug. Not sure I only know its a huge PITA to deal with on the trail with no way to change the flat tire. Don't think its a huge problem but I have seen it more than once on my vehicle and on a few others.

 

Do you think et style lugs would be fine on something that sees dirt roads no major off-roading more of just a daily driver 90% pavement.

 

I put these on my truck because of the aftermarket rims. No problems so far in 4 years. If anyone needs longer studs.

 

You will most likely be fine. Have only seen it on the trucks that wheel a bit harder. Also think it might be a problem more if they get a little moisture or dirt in there. Something that causes the lug nut to stick to the threads a little.

 

ET lugs are very similar to the OEM Toyota lugs. The extended portion of the lug nut goes through the lug bore(like the OEM lug on an OEM alloy wheel) vs. your standard lug just sitting on top of the lug bore. If you aftermarket wheels can accept ET lugs, use them.

 

I need to update everyone. I made the decision to go with the Gorilla Lugs last year. Wanted the piece of mind with my new Enkei wheels.
Fast forward to today. Had the truck inspected and wheels rotated. Shop calls me to tell me the wheels are stuck to the truck and they need me to come see it. I show up to find the ET portion of ALL 20 lugs broken off. I trust this shop with my safety and my families safety, I know the owner well. He assured me they were installed correctly, torqued to spec, and anti-seize used on every stud.

They ended up having to use an air hammer to push the stud through the backside of the rotor on every wheel. $157 later for all new studs and lugs+labor. To say I'm angry is an understatement. My guy said he's seen a few fail in his years, but never every single one. I don't know where the issue was, what the issue was, or why this happened. I have already reached out to Gorilla. Just a warning to all out there. I'll keep you posted on the outcome of this with Gorilla. In the mean time I'm not going with ET lugs when this goes back together.

My guy did say that all wheels are not meant to accept ET lugs. If there is too much force on the ET portion it will basically weld itself to the stud. This could have been too tight of a fit in the wheels or he said the ET portion could have been trying to center the wheel instead of the taper.



UPDATE: Gorilla responded with a lot of insight. The lugs failed for 1 of 2 reasons. The ET portion could have been bottomed out against the rotor or more likely the ET portion was too large for the lug bore on the wheel. This caused torque and pressure to be put on the ET threads instead of the tapered surface of the lug. Either way triple check your setup before jumping on the ET train. I will be going back together with non-ET lugs since my shop confirmed today that they will still get 8 threads with standard lugs.

 

What wheels do you have?

 

Enkei Commander. These wheels do not have a provision for the extended taper of an ET lug and the lug bore is also not large enough for an ET lug. The lug bore is so tight on the ET portion that there is constant friction and the wheel seizes the ET portion to the stud.

As I stated in my above post when I updated, Gorilla was very helpful and even sent me a set of new non-ET lugs out of good faith (I did not ask). I originally placed the blame on the lugs, the blame is in fact on myself and the installer. The shop should have caught this, but you won't notice it unless you were able to see under the lug face. The fact that the tapered portion of the lug did not contact the wheel is what caused this. Only a slight portion of the taper near where the ET started was carrying all of the load. I dry fit the ET lugs prior to mounting, they did fit tight in the lug bore, but I could not notice the under side.

As with many other wheels, ET lugs are not required and not recommended. I assumed that I needed them and that all wheels could accept them. This is not the case as with many other wheels on this forum, many do not require and should not use ET lugs. Lesson learned.

 

Thanks for the education. I was clueless on extended thread (ET) lug nuts. I've researched further elsewhere and along with your info I'm now fully coached up on this technicality. Sorry for your hassle, headache and scar tissue. But it has helped me to understand all of this. Thanks again.

 

How can we tell if ET lugs are needed? Is there a minimum number of threads that should be engaged to be considered as acceptable?

ET lugs are hard enough to find, so maybe swapping to longer studs is the easier route.

 

14mm stud requires 14mm of engagement to meet it's design specs.
-Put your wheel on the truck.
-Tighten it down with 2 lugs opposite of each other.
-Take a straight pick or a small screw driver.
-Insert it into the lug bore of the wheel to the depth that the lug would sit against the shoulder of the lug bore.
-Use a marker or your finger on the pick to mark the end of the stud.
-Measure that distance with a micrometer.

I highly recommend checking with your wheel manufacturer to verify that the lug bore is designed to accept an ET lug. Not enough clearance and you'll end up in my shoes.

 

Good to know. Thanks @OBXTundra They did provide ET lug nuts with the wheels when I purchased. I was mainly looking for a compatible lug lock, but coming up empty at the moment.

 

All those listed above are keyed locking type ET lugnuts for the Tundra .

 

So the lugs that came with my sr8 (don’t know if its ET or not) will work with the icon rebound?

 

More than likely, if it's our lugs that were purchased in the last few years, they're ET. You will need to contact Icon to see if their wheels accept ET style lugs.

 

Thanks for sharing this. I wrongfully assumed you could use ET lug nuts on any aftermarket wheels that normally used acorn nuts. I reached out to the manufacturer and they said nope, don’t use them. Very glad I asked.

Edit: The manufacturer was Kansei, in case anyone was curious.

 

Lot's of good reading here
https://www.tundras.com/threads/the...em-lugs-aftermarket-studs.76918/#post-2212059

 

I ordered a set of Method wheels a few days ago from a local tire store I noticed the ordered a set of non et nuts so I emailed method and this was the response I got so I ordered a set of et nuts from summit.
Hello Scot,


Thank you for your support of our products.


Our wheels are designed both in Hub Centric and Lug Centric form. In the case of for this wheel/vehicle combination, this would be lug centric. As long as you have a set of aftermarket lugs (our or not) that are conical ET style with just the center cap and proper wheel torque (star pattern and following the recommended factory torque specs), everything should be fine. You won’t find many aftermarket companies that make/offer a hub ring that big as it is not typically used.

 

I agree that some wheel setups can/will accommodate the ET lugs and some will even require it. But, many will not and that will get you in a big old mess. A few years ago when I was putting new wheels on the Tundra this did not seem to be common knowledge. Across the board there wasn't an instance like mine, a total failure of every ET lug on every wheel. And if it weren't for reaching out to Enkei and Gorilla I would have never known. Now here we are a few years later and I think given many replies in this thread there are many other wheel manufacturers stating that their wheels are not ET lug suitable.

 

I've had the Gorilla Automotive 20-Piece 14mm x 1.50 Spline Lug Nut Kit (Black) K5ES-14150BGR on my 17 Tundra Limited with the XD 847 Outbreak Wheels 18x9 +12 mm Satin Black With Gray Tint. When I purchased the wheels, I spoke with the company and they confirmed to use the Gorilla Spline lugs ↑. However, now I'm wondering if there's a better option, to avoid the aforementioned issues. Anyone found thin black conical ET lugs (not spline)? I purchased multiple spline keys however want to find a better option without changing out the wheel studs.

 

Another option may W55014SEB from West Coast Wheel Accessories. These are the ET lugs sold by Method. On Method site they use number LK-W55014SEB. I got them elsewhere cheaper with free shipping. Great fit on Method wheels so far but no experience on other wheels.