‘05 Crew Cab Limited

Couple years ago I found a clean well maintained low miler, had recently done the first timing belt/water pump service. I’m considering the hunt for a passenger front seat so my wife can also have a power seat, and upgrading the jbl speakers throughout , including the driver side door frame mounted tweeter (it crackles) with any base. Also , recently the passenger front automatic door lock stopped working, it unlocks just fine, but won’t lock with the fob or driver door control. Suggestions appreciated from any of you who may have tackled these issues.

 

Nice looking truck. Try these threads out for starters...

(1) Power seat options for 2006 Tundra DC 2WD | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

Convert manual to power passenger seat 2001 Tundra? | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

Sequoia leather seats into 04 DC | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Crackle on tweeter: There's an issue a few have reported of their tweeter wire getting pinched in the sail panel. Typically leading to parasitic drain of the battery, but would also likely cause crackling.

You need to know if you've got the OEM amp in your truck - if you have JBL silkscreened on your head unit, and JBL logos on speaker grilles, you do, and it's behind the panel covering the back wall on the driver's side. The JBL system, as I understand, uses 2ohm drivers. You really have two options: Retrofit with similar but run 3ohm drivers (since 2ohm are hard to come by in components), JBL and Infinity both offer 3ohm separates, I prefer JBL, it's what we sold at the shop bitd and for good reason (superb warm reproduction for that price point).

On the lock, it can be a couple of things. Burned out door lock actuator on that door is likely, but before you accept that as being the issue, open the non-working door and throw the lock on the driver door to see if you get motion out of the passenger lock - I'm recommending this b/c misalingment of your door latch can cause lock actuators not to fire properly. If no motion, another thing you can do is take a 9v battery and apply voltage directly to the actuator (take door panel off OR go check EWD/wiring diagrams to find your wire colors and do it at the bulkhead in the kick panel). If the latter two don't produce some kind of movement or sound out of the lock, replace the actuator. but beware: Sometimes aftermarket actuators are wired in reverse, so test before you button things back up

Welcome to the forum and I suspect you already found this, but if you haven't, this has more info on how to get the most (and avoid issues) with your new truck: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

Damnit @shifty` & @The Black Mamba , always too fast! Guess the only thing i'll add is if it is the actuator, you could go the route of replacing the motor inside, with one from scAmazon. Check this post: https://www.tundras.com/threads/200...er-power-lock-not-working.78442/#post-1988807. Which references this how-to on replacing the motor: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-access-cab-door-lock-repair-18.77891/#post-1975404.

 

The door actuator is likely an easy fix - the Toyotas are notorious for these going out......I did all four in my 4runner within a three month period and have done 2 on my tundra so far. Many will say not to order Amazon parts and for the most part I agree. But the entire actuator assembly can be had for under $50 likely and the juice isn't worth the squeeze to me to replace the motor. I have used the amazon replacement all 6 times and never had a a repeat issue.

Speaker issue could be a blown tweeter or pinched wire as suggested above. Again, easy and fairly inexpensive replacement.

The seat swap = I am totally clueless on that one

 

Thanks for the replies of advice, I’m planning a Christmas break (project) to address these issues. This forum is a great resource.