06 Sequoia Engine Swap Help - No Crank after install

Seeking advice on a no crank/no start after an engine swap.
2006 Sequoia w/ 171k miles blew the engine earlier this year after running with a broken radiator.

Replacement engine w/ 149k miles and 60 day warranty was purchased and swapped yesterday. Last night when trying to start it up, all power will come onto headlights, windows, dash lights, etc. but no crank.
New battery, water pump, timing belt, starter (remanufactured)
The reman starter was not tested before it was installed in the engine. The original starter that was removed was tested outside of engine after the no start last night and worked.

All fuses were tested. Only one that was blown was a towing light fuse.

When hooking up the new battery to the tester/charger, battery looked pretty low for brand new. We charged it all night and tried again this morning with no start.
When trying to start up, you can hear the ABS pump (I think) make an attempt of a crank but there is no other effort by the engine. Radio also starts to dim the same time you crank. We are beginning to think it's the remanufactured starter but we need to take of the intake manifold in order to access it. If that doesn't work we're not sure where to go from there. Question: do the error codes need to be cleared by a scanner in order for it to start?
Any help would be appreciated.

 

Please tell us exactly what year/make/model nd cab type (if applicable) the engine came out of. And did you transfer the engine harness and/or ECU from the donor engine into your Sequoia?

I would clear codes, personally.

 

2005 SR5 2WD is what the replacement engine came out of. Swapping into a 2006 SR5 4WD. Original ECU was used and power was successfully run to the dash and cab of the car.

I have a scanner on the way and should be here today. Will update after codes are cleared

 

Have you tried to jumper pins at the starter relay to force power to the starter, see if it kicks over?

 

Been looking for it. Manual only specifies where the fuse locations are. No labels of relays.

 

Okay found it. Confirmed that we did force power to starter via jumper pins and got the same noise. That noise must be from the remanufactured starter then?

 

OEM remanufactured or aftermarket? The starter on the 2UZ is one of the dirty half-dozen you NEVER want to buy aftermarket on.

Coil packs, fuel pump, starter, lower ball joints, timing belt, water pump are the big ones. Always OEM, Denso, or Aisin.

 

Oh, and also note:

I can't shake a stick at how many times we've had battery cables wind up being the issue behind no-start conditions. Either loose cables, internally corroded cables, bad connections, BAD GROUNDS, loose grounds, etc. Corrosion inside the cables has been a gotcha for quite a few people.

 

The most obvious ground to check after an engine transplant is the engine block...

 

After testing the relay it's actually the ABS that is making the crank attempt sound. No sound is coming from the starter at all. Fuel pump pushes gas to engine

Still haven't taken the manifold off but my scanner came in and read these codes:
P2716 Pressure control solenoid D Electrical
P0778 Pressure control solenoid B Electrical
PP0418 Secondary Air Injection System Control A Circuit

Still researching what these mean and if they would put the car into some sort of limp mode.

 

Secondary air injection pump is that big round thing that looks like an alarm siren under the intake manifold. The other two are related to the transmission solenoids.

Don't forget there's links to the FSM to diagnose all this stuff, along with elec diagrams linked from the 4th or 5th paragraph of this thread.

But as @w666 mentioned, check your grounds, check your cables. Unplug/replug everything. Even leaving off or poorly plugged something like the connector for the ECU's temp sensor (green connector left/pass side of the throttle body) can cause no-start situations.