2001 V8 4.7l advice needed asap

Hi guys, so my 2001 SR5 is at a crossroads. Just failed NY inspection after new muffler and exhaust and the CEL came on after 493 miles. Wouldn’t clear the computer before then. I want to list the amount of work I put into the truck since 2019. My mechanic said “it’s about that time”…..meaning to move on. Besides the CEL I have some issues regarding the suspension. Everything from rusty leaf springs to front end bushing and arms just rotting away causing noise. The Frame was replaced in 2019 by Toyota so I’m good there as far as rust issues. The outside of the truck looks fantastic as well as the inside. Everyone always compliments me on this truck. I have to make a 3 hour trip this weekend and need to get some honest feedback on what to do. Below Is everything I have done to the truck since 2019. It currently has 180k on it and drives beautifully besides the suspension being loud and squeaky especially on the front driver side (again is a bushing ….but the mechanic said once he starts pulling things apart on the suspension things will just start to fall off and the cost to replace / fix it all will not be worth it. Anyways, here’s the list of repairs I’ve done since 2019. Please tell me if I need to sell it or there’s a way out of this nightmare. Again it drives and looks great for 22 yrs old.

-2 new alternators
-new radiator (hoses clamps etc.)
-new serpentine belt w all pulleys adjusters and tensioners
-new exhaust
-BRAND new frame from Toyota in 2019 installed by dealership
-new tires
-new front shocks with coil overs (the rear original Bilstein’s are still on!)
-new spark plugs and coil overs
-new battery in 2022
-new o2 sensors
-new rear bumper
-new sway bar links (were rotted off in 2019)
-new front brakes

I live by the beach so I know the salt water is a killer but I put so much into this truck and it looks so damn good from the outside. Not sure what I can even get for it $ wise. Any advice on what to do or the order of importance is GREATLY appreciated. Also, I bought the truck in 2016 with 130k on it and have never changed the timing belt or water pump and don’t know when or if it ever has been changed. That has always scared me a little.
Apologies in advance for such a long tedious post but not too sure how to narrow it down w/o saying all of this. Please help.

 

Pics would help. How did you get a frame in 2019 and it’s already rusted out? Has it not been treated for the salty winter roads up there?

 

I can send pics when I go back to the mechanics shop later on. The frame is NOT rusted out. It’s about the only thing not rusted underneath. Sorry for not making that clear. By sheer luck I took the truck out of state and hit the jackpot with the 3rd dealership I took it too.

 

That’s a great start then! The other suspension components that are getting rusty (especially original ones with bushings in them) can be and likely should be replaced anyway to get the new bushings. New upper and lower arms are available. New ball joints, tie rod ends etc. it is definitely worth fixing your truck if it is otherwise in great shape, which it sounds like it is. If you are not rinsing your truck off after saltwater exposure, you’re setting yourself up for future corrosion. As far as the timing belt, that would be a priority.

 

So did you bother to scan the OBD2 for a CEL code? That's free at most auto parts stores and the first thing you should've done. Til then you're just guessing

 

I believe it is a P0440 code. But I will confirm when I get back to the shop.

Two different people said they smelled gas from the back of the truck but there isn’t a hole in the tank. My fuel efficiency seems to be normal as well.

 

I would check your evap canister and lines. I had that code on my previous truck, the canister had a hole in it, and the purge solenoid had given out and dumped charcoal in the lines, so I had to replace some parts and clear the lines.

 

P0440 Fuel evap system Leak can be as simple as a bad gas cap. Or more involved as described above. Start simple and work your way towards the failure. If you’ve never replaced your gas cap, get a new one.

 

As others said, having frame replaced is a biggy but taking into account what you have in it, hypothetically if you had to spend say $5K if mechanic is having to do the work, are you ok with that.

I’m gonna take a WAG and say you probably are upside down regarding principle and worth…..you’re at a crossroads.

 

Honestly, 5k I can’t justify right now. But what else are my options? Certainly can’t get another car/truck for under 10k that I’ve seen anywhere…..Yes, I’m having a mechanic do all the work. 2k, I can afford but not too sure where that even puts me at as far as what can be done. Like everything the timing of this couldn’t be worse but that’s life. Trying to prioritize from the top down. I will hopefully have some in depth pictures by this evening. Such a great looking truck and perfect for my current needs.

 

Start with the must haves. Get the check engine light addressed to pass inspection. Then inspect your timing belt. If that thing snaps, everything else will as a moot point. Prioritize timing belt replacement. It’s only $2-400 in parts. With labor to install can be done for around $1200 most places. Or recruit a mechanic friend and diy for beer and bbq. Next would be lower ball joints if they haven’t been done with OEM and the rest is all replace as you can less essential items. As you stated, there isn’t cheaper alternatives out there unfortunately. These are good trucks, just need the maintenance items kept up on.

 

Need pictures. Both long shots of the frame, and a few shots of the front suspension on each side, rear leafs and the rear leaf mounting points on each side.

Why in the world you'd get a new frame ~4 years ago and not start coating it with Woolwax, Fluid Film, or similar is absolutely beyond me (assuming you didn't). Why spend all that money on maintenance, when the main thing that kills these trucks is the frame? (close 2nd goes to you, timing belt)

 

PS I saw the other day the average price for a new car just hit a new all-time high of $50k USD / $66k CAD. Not exactly when I'd be wanting to buy...

But remember, you can take a $500 trip down here to the south and get a new 1st Gen with similar mileage and no rust on the frame for $8k-12k.

 

https://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/d/kerrville-02-tundra/7652728700.html

 

I want that gd camper shell.

 

It's so nice!! Windoors, rack...yeah if it were color matched to my truck (i.e., faded, horrid, primer-looking gray something) I'd be on my way already.

 

I'd take it even if not color matched.

 

Frame is not the problem. He has other rusted failing components, and an Evap system code.

 

Reach out. Most will split the shell from the sale of the truck. Super nice looking truck, shame it’s 2wd.

 

Well, that makes this part of the 1st reply in this post really f'n confusing then, because it sure reads like everything is going to fall apart from rust. Or am I nuts? This is what I saw:

@OP you may want to edit your first reply to say the frame is fine, it's just the suspension that's falling apart. Toyota should've replaced several of the frame components during the frame replacement. But still, without pics we're punching blindfolded here.

If it was local, I would. Too far to drive on pickup. I could probably get family in Seguin to grab it, but it's so many moving parts on something where I have no idea when I'll drive out there next, and I don't want it sitting in their warehouse rotting in the TX heat.

 

Took me ten years to find a cap that was color matched for my truck. Would have bought one that wasn’t if it was the right setup. Rack? Windoors? No broken windows? I’d be on that like stink on cheese.

 

Exactly! But honestly, I'm not willing to drive more than 6 hours one way to get something. 12 hours on the road is about my limit at my age.

 

Well, the good news is that it just passed inspection. Was real busy at the shop and couldn’t get any pictures from under the truck bc it was on the street already. I’m sure I will be able to get it back up tomorrow for some shots for everyone. Asked one of the mechanics what it was and he said “a fuel line”…….he didn’t work on it. I’ll see the boss tomorrow and get the proper info, I just wanted to update you guys with the inspection. I’m also going to ask him to check the timing belt out for me tomorrow and report back here hopefully with images underneath. I feel great about the inspection but am having a hard time being positive about anything in the front or rear end suspension. Thanks for everyone’s input so far. Gives me faith in humanity.

 

I mean, if you're interested in learning ... EVAP system and EVAP codes generally, in layman's terms: On virtually all fuel injected engines, there's a gas tank with a pump inside, a fuel line that delivers gas to the injectors on the engine, and a return fuel line that takes unused fuel/vapors back. It's basically a sealed system, transporting gas/vapors from tank to engine. Because it's a sealed system, you need a way to release suction/pressure as gas is removed from the tank, so there's a fancy valve in the mix, along with a canister that helps capture lost fuel vapor for re-burning , and a fancy little rig that lets excess vapor go to be re-burnt and a little valve to help create/release vacuum with a device to capture vapors for storage and re-burn, and a vent valve that lets your on-bard computer to off-gas if there's too much vacuum or pressure in the system.

All that P0440 code indicates is, "there's a large leak somewhere in the fuel system, and the on-board computer can't keep its desired vacuum pressure between the gas tank and engine"

As you know, the gas tank has a big f'n hole right where you stick the pump nozzle into it during fill-ups. If you don't tighten the gas cap until it clicks, sometimes that's the source of the air leak. Sometimes gas caps go bad and let air leak. Sometimes, mechanics fail to reconnect a very specific hose to the EVAP canister, and this is what happens! My guess is, your mechanics f'ed up and bumped that specific hose loose (see a couple replies down in that thread for which hose was loose for that guy).

Beside that, if you have a new frame, but some of the suspension is crusty ... even if you bought all genuine Toyota OEM parts online - and FYI, we can tell you where to order, how to get free shipping and the cheapest prices, and even help you get the part numbers to order - it's probably worthwhile.

There *ARE* some parts here where you 100% need to go with OEM or you'll be royally screwing yourself. Cam bolts, for example. Lower balljoints are another HUGE one. We can also help you figure out which parts are OK to go non-OEM and save some $$. Your major cost here will be labor, not parts. Just get us some pics so we can help you figure out what's needed.

 

I'm kind of in the same spot as you. Bought a truck with a brand new frame but a lot of the shit thrown back on that new frame was old and is rusty as hell. My plan is eventually replace all those rusting parts, month by month because I don't feel like spending $50k on a new truck. So if I'm in $20k at the end of it for the truck, I'm fine with that. Insurance is cheap on it, parts are available and relatively affordable, and I don't have a note / lien / loan. It's easy enough to work on, even for a mouth breather like me, with the help of this website and youtube I feel like I can handle most repairs myself no problem.

With my luck the truck will fall apart within a year or two, but who knows. Its just money, they print it everyday

 

Give me ~ $500 and I'll take your truck away to dispose of it properly.

Seriously though, new frame and a clean body is a great basis for for a project rebuild...however, unless you can do all the work yourself you'll sustain serious injuries to you check writing arm. Even assuming you can do most of the work, I can imagine several thousand more dollars in new parts until everything is just so. Great for a project car, not so great if it's your daily driver.

 

I mean, @Bmktw2 has done an awesome job, and I feel like he's had a lot farther to go than most: https://www.tundras.com/threads/new-to-me-2001-4x4-5spd-v6.124851/

If you ever need inspiration ... it does help to have a junkyard with less-rusty trucks in it, but ... it's not impossible to attain. People move all over this country, never know what you may find.

 

Fix the truck.
You know what you have

 

Yeah I was reading through that thread a few days ago, dude rules. If I'd have gotten into mine for $2500 I'd be pretty psyched too. Junkyards here want a premium on good parts. https://www.car-part.com/ is my go to