2004 radiator

mine is starting to discolor and I understand thats a sign of the need to replace. HAs anyone used the Champion all-alu rad? your thoughts?

Thanks in advance, Dino

 

Don't do it. Just buy Denso (OEM). A lot of the all-aluminum radiators come with their own shortcomings, I think most who've done it on here would agree, and fitment is hit or miss. There's a couple folks have tried, I want to say Mishimoto was the better fit, but still had shortcomings.

Be careful who you order from, radiators are virtually always damaged in transit with vendors like scAmazon, fleaBay. Rock Auto has a 100% success rate for forum members w/shipping. And they are a forum vendor, anyone on here can give you a 5% off coupon to sweeten their already-low pricing.

Note: Radiators are different based on cab type for your year. If you do go Denso, '04 access cab for your year takes this top part number (double cab '04 takes the bottom): $156 at RockAuto

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Never heard of that.... My Denso radiator lasted 28 years before it cracked at the top seems. For reference it was a 1UZ... Personally I'd go Denso off of Rockauto, although you could probably find it at similar or slightly cheaper price at the local stealership online parts website.

 

I will second the packaging of Rockauto. My order came in double boxed and the outer box looked like it was tossed out of a moving truck. I may still have the picture somewhere, but inside box was bubble wrapped, on a side note it was a miracle the radiator cap I ordered didn't just fall out.

 

Thanks for the tips Gents. Denso/Rock Auto it is!

 

Discoloration of the plastics is a warning sign you may have pink milkshake waiting for you, due to the way the transmission line is routed through the bottom of the radiator. (flip thru that thread for fun dissections and other info if interesting)

It's one of those things that's advisable, at the age the 1st gens are reaching now, to proactively replace when you start seeing plastics fade, discolor, etc. because the likelihood other things are failing is higher than low.

 

Go Denso brand on the radiator, and replace the thermostat and gasket at the same time( buy Aisin Brand) from Rockauto also.

 

Good info, thanks

 

Just had the T-belt service done a couple days ago. I got the truck with 98K on it and couldn't find any evidence it had been done. New thermostat included in that service and my mechanic gave me the heads up on what the discoloration meant. 2 new hoses and a RAD will be next.

 

Awesome, good on ya for getting one of the most important things done.

I assume at 98k, you had a previous owner doing some serious short-trip driving. Hopefully you don't find sludge/varnish under your valve covers like me and a few other low-milers did.

Welcome to the forum, and if you haven't checked it out already, this may give you some thoughts and stuff to track down on that new truck.

 

Thanks again Shifty! Tons of great info in that link.

I went with 0 offset Methods and 265/70-17. Bilstien 5100s and OME 2884s in front (stock was KYB) and new 5100 shocks out back. Going to add a bumper up front, haven't decided which. Lower ball joints on the truck are solid but I don't know how old they are so I'm going to change them. Checked the carrier bearing per another recco and it's good to go as well.
Long Baja trip planned for early March and looking forward to a trouble free ride. Now I have to build out some drawers and a platform to sleep on in that bed.

 

Nice! Did you find you were slinging much from your inner CV boots after the lift? And on front bumper, any thoughts about winch vs. no winch, plte vs. tube vs mixed?

 

forgot to mention I did the front axels too, nothing coming out of the new ones (yet?). Haven't decided on the bumper. There is a co. local to me (Hot Metal Fab) that makes a tube/pre-runner style bumper I like. The Brute force is an option too. Mainly just looking for solid recovery points for the front. A winch would be nice but we have the LSD and a little driving experience......but lack self control