2005 double cab rear window question

hey fellas, recently bought a 1st gen and it has the power rear window, it didnt work when i bought the truck so ive been trying to track down the culprit.

when i press the switch it dosnt do anything and i do not hear a click or anything from the motor

so far ive takin the back panel off and everything looks to be in good shape, ive checked every fuse i could find that could possibly be related, and they all seem good.
i tried to use a test light on all the plugs going into the back of the switch with it on and off and got nothing, with the key in the on position but engine off should there be a hot wire to the back of the switch? or would it only get hot (turn the test light on) if the switch was working properly?
so i guess the only lead i have really found so far (and i may be doing this wrong) but i checked continuity on the switch and it seems like from what i can tell its supposed to have 2 different continuity points for each position and i could only see one side working so maybe i need to order a new switch? just looking for any ideas you guys can think of. thanks!

 

Did you dig into the electrical wiring diagrams linked up at the top of the megathread, to understand if any of the fuses in the engine may could be linked, or understand the general wiring, maybe glean some insight into whether it should have power to the switch or not?

I would assume the switch would use a relay, personally. And power would feed into that relay, and the switch would act as a trigger for that relay. I would expect maybe the switch is acting like a ground leg.

Do you see any evidence the truck had an alarm at one time? If so, that could be suspect. They may've wired it into all 5 windows, it wouldn't be atypical. And when removed, it wasn't reconnected right?

 

yo! i did read into a few different diagrams and ya from what i can tell there wouldnt be a constant power to the switch until the relay is triggered im going to check power closer to the motor today and see if i can get any signs of life.

i dont see any evidence of an alarm, i only have a key with no fob, unless there is something im missing, i also checked my vin on toyotas website and it dosnt say my truck came with factory keyless or anything like that, ive also checked every fuse for every window and they all seemed fine with the test light the big square one i also checked for continuity and it seemed good

 

Do the other windows work fine? Window lock?
Check the wiring for any sharp bends that could have resulted in cracks in the wiring loom. Check the wiring around the switch also. Then I would start at the relay and motor for the window to make sure those work fine. You should be able to hear the relay if it's getting power.

 

yes all other windows work fine, window lock is off, i will check wires again but didnt see anything abnormal when poking around before. would checking the motor just involve running a direct 12v power to the motor itself? or how do u go about testing that. i dont hear any noises what so ever when i click the window button

 

Ya I would check the connector with a meter and make sure you're getting power and that the others are grounded. Then, ya try connecting 12v direct to battery. At least that's what I would do.

 

I guess you already found your diagrams but they can be found here
Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

It is page 414 in the 2005 PDF that has the DC window circuits.

This is the part that applies to the rear window.
It does have it's own relay.

 

ok so what ur saying is the switch is potentially good but maybe the relay isnt working properly so when i press the switch its not showing power cause the relays not triggering? do you check a relay same way as checking any other continuity with a volt meter? sorry im really new to electrical and car stuff in general haha i appreciate yalls help

 

when you say connector u mean just the different plugs on the way to the rear motor? i will give this a shot thanks brother

 

You said you checked window fuses.
Did you check that Power No 5 fuse?

 

i did yes, i checked it for continuity and then also since i dont have power seats there was a identical fuse in that slot i switched with it aswell to see if anything would change and still nothing

 

In theory, yes, and it's the next step I'd take.

You should be able to use any 12v battery, like one you'd find in a residential alarm panel, inside a UPS battery backup for a computer, motorcycle battery, lawn mower battery, you get the idea. Even one of those wall-wart power supplies from Radio Shack or similar that'll support 12v will work.

There are typically two cases with simple motors in car windows I've seen. 2-wire or 3-wire.

Typically with 2-wire, if you feed positive voltage to one wire and ground to the other, the motor engages one direction. Switch the positive and negative input, it rolls the other direction.

Typically with 3-wire is, one wire is ground (and may be colored to indicate that, either black, white with black stripe, green, or brown). The other two wires are up/down respectively. Feed your ground, then power into one remaining wire, you get up, feed power into the other wire with ground connected, it rolls the other way.

In the case of the EWD above @RainMan_PNW kindly posted, clearly it's the latter of those, a 3-wire. Ground the black wire. Then apply positive voltage to the green wire to roll it down. Voltage to the red wire and it should roll back up. If not, your motor is your problem.

I would personally use a handheld battery. You may even be able to get away with using a basic 9v battery. I've used them to test door window motors before. When new, they're powerful enough to at least "bump" the motor and get a couple rotations.

 

Ya I would check at the plug that goes to the relay and motor. i think there's a connector/plug at both. I'm not the best with electronics either, and I'm basing some of my suggestions off of when I had my 4runner and had issues with the rear window. It seems to be the same or similar setup.

 

awesome, thanks for the suggestions. I get off work in a couple hours and will be trying all this stuff, will report back! o7

 

okay guys, so i checked a few things firstly im having trouble telling which one of these two is my relay im looking to check ^this one being under the hood v this one being in the back passenger side behind the back panel

then i probed these two spots back where the motor is and didnt gat any signs of power with my light. im charging my scooter battery right now to test my motor to see and will let ya guys know.



this one was previously zip tied by a previous owner i took it apart and sprayed some cleaner and put a new zip tie

 

scratch the first picture it seems to not have anything to do with it

 

i didnt probe this side of the harness should i do that?

 

Second pic is the relay. And I can hear mine clicking if my window is up and I push the up button. Yes I would probe both sides.

 

so i pulled that relay off and tested all the prongs from the cable bundle leading to it and still nothing.. no trace of power with my test light

 

i also noticed its saying there is another relay up behind the main fuse box and so i poked around the top relay (dont know if its right) and got power out of one blue/yellow cable but not the other..

 

the the one i checked i believe was F

 

well i swapped that relay with an identical one and nothing happened im so confused and frustrated.

 

i tried tapping a wire two the red and green wire leading to the motor and connected it to my scooter battery and nothing happened with either wire touching

 

Hmmm. Sorry, I wish I had more insight to offer. It could be the motor I guess. Might be worth buying a used one on eBay that you can return if that doesn’t fix it.

 

i appreciate ya buddy, ya i am at a complete loss atm may be out of my pay grade

 

Did you try positive of the battery to red or green and negative of the battery to black?

 

oh shoot i didnt, when i opened the wire sleeve there wasnt a black one in there.. maybe im missing something aswell that could of been the issue

 

Should be 4 leads to the motor.
I misread that brown wire being black and didn't see the ground wire when I glanced at it.
Sorry.



The connector to the motor 'should' look like this.



Pin 1. Green - Down
Pin 2. Red - Up
Pin 3. Brown - not sure what it does
Pin 4. White w/black strip is ground

Touch the NEG- battery wire to the pin 4 contact on the motor and POS+ to the pin 1 or pin 2 contacts and see if it moves.

If your battery is too small, pull the motor and try using your truck battery..
I've done weirder stuff testing audio amps...

 

dude ur sucha stud! thank you so much for all this info, i will try this tomorrow!

 

I store I said this earlier, I guess I wasn’t clear enough