2006 Pre-pressed rear axle assembly question.

I’ve got an axle seal leaking on my 2006 4x4 crew cab.
For simplicity thought I’d just get a pre-pressed axle.
Does no one sell a pre-pressed axle assembly for it?
I can find them for everything, But the crew cab.
Dorman says neither the 926-148, nor 926-147 will fit, but another parts seller says, I think it’s the 148, will fit.

Does anyone have cross reference numbers?

 

Keep your OEM axle and replace the bearing and seals. If rusty also replace the backing plate. If you don’t have a press take it to a shop that can press them on. Be sure to take a copy of the drawing showing dimensions so they press it on too far.

 

Looking like it’s the route I’ll go.

Bearing is ok, but if I’m going to replace seal going to go ahead and replace the bearings.

 

Change your breather...probably the reason for your leak in the first place.

 

Thanks for the reminder.
Hadn’t thought of that.
I’m rusty. I’ve forgotten a lot. Been over 20 years since I worked as mechanic.

 

Is that the breather vent on the rear diff that you're referring to? What's the general life span on those?

 

Like most things, depends on how it’s being maintained. Mine is original, 25 years and 275k miles. Still work great. But I don’t live in the salt belt and I spin it every oil change and tire rotation when I’m greasing the driveline.

 

Thanks... so you just spin the little top hat on the plug and she's good to go? Or is there more to checking that it is operating properly?

I'm at 20 yrs and 223k so I need to add to my checklist. Is this something to periodically remove and clean. Is that NPT pipe thread on the vent?

 

It's cheap enough to change out every couple hundred thousand miles or so...

 

This is my take also ^^

I replaced mine at 15yr of use and roughly 75k miles while overhauling fluids. I paid like $9. Seems like really cheap insurance, probably one of the things to add to the list. Guess that's probably the next thing to make a list on. "Members recommended things to refresh and when" and merge it in with Toyota's maintenance schedule.

 

Last month I decided to relocate my vent to the space behind the left taillight and use a fuel filter instead of the check valve to truly let it breath lol. It looked dry in there.

Before



After

 

Decided to replace axle bearing and seal myself.
Glad I did because installed wrong.
Took me a while to get all the silicone off.
Anyway: I got a tool, but the ABS tone ring is seated completely against the bearing, and have less than 1/4 inch room to get anything in.
I don’t even think I can get a bearing splitter in it.
It’s so close I don’t think I could even cut with side grinder. Looking for other options.
It’s pressed on so far the seal is only contacting the bevel this my oil leak.

can see in photo it was barely running on the bevel.
Also: since everything is pressed on way too far does anyone have a rough over all length from inner spacer to tip of shaft for a Double cab 4x4 with LSD?
It pressed on so far don’t know how the and sensor was reading the tone ring.

 

Bearing Sourcing and Placement Info (others and mine)
https://www.tundras.com/threads/2000-4wd-tundra-gear-oil-in-drum-assembly.147283/#post-3691437

I would use only Toyota seals and can get with bearing reasonably on sale with 25% off online prices and free shipping, but also found bearing at Advance. Many find HF 20 ton press works well and there is some info in that link on fine tuning it like a .25-.5mm after pressing as well.

 

I've seen posts on this board as well as others that discuss various methods for determining the correct location for the ABS ring and spacer. When it was my turn I employed a radical technique...I measured!

 

This measurement should be 5mm as a starting point. Then test using either grease or a Sharpie. Put a thin coat of grease on the bearing retainer, or use a Sharpie to put a few lines across the surface of the bearing retainer. Then reinstall the axle, spin the wheel a few times, and take the axle back off. The grease or the Sharpie marks will show where the seal is contacting the retainer. Adjust as necessary.

 

Did not place mine at 5 mm but about 3mm. Pressed short of that and grease tested seal depth as well as depth to housing. @remington351 has that good post on the pressing and my post showed another technique for final finessing if worried about press being able to make tiny adjustments or if had a shop press it and want to adjust it after testing depth and don't have a press.

 

Depending on where I measure mine is 6.75mm polished axle showing.
The spacer is 12.75mm wide. It’s a bit narrower on other side because of the casting. To catch inner 1/4 of the seal on spacer mine going to have to be around 2-3mm polished axle showing I think.

I went and bought a bearing separator last night. Only one I could find locally.
I hope it’s thin enough to get under the edge of the tone ring, and strong enough to hold, and lift tone ring up without breaking where I can then get the puller under the tone ring to finish pulling it off.

Watched Timmy toolmans video again. There was lot space between the tone ring, and backing plate on one’s he changed. I have less than 1/4.”
Apparently, Whatever shop changed it had no clue what they were doing.
I’ll post if bearing separator works or not later.

I’m hoping it does, otherwise I’ll have to be using a dremel tool to carefully cut the tone ring and spacer off.

 

Have seen some heat the outer retainer and spin the axle on a ball bearing. So how are you planning to put it back together?

 

I have a press and tools to reassemble. I can’t use them for disassembly until I can get some space between tone ring and mounting plate/backing plate.

 

First off, you're not the only one. And it's a warning a few of us were issuing to others about having others do it, and about doing it yourself. If you hand to a shop that doesn't use manuals, it's important to give them the info they need and explain "spacing is extremely important". Shops tend to do the same for the rear brake drums in our trucks, they don't understand Toyota gives you 1mm or less of room when setting spacing.

There is a puller tool @bmf4069 shows here, he was in a similar shitty situation.

Also @tvpierce had some great suggestions for him here.

This thread may be a good read for you, note the video @w666 posts on the 1st page. @FrenchToasty posts same over here in another thread you may want to read.

Someone posted a friggin awesome video with someone who, with a torch, easily removes/installs tone ring and/or bearing. Sucks, I can't find it but I refuse to spend more than 60s looking for anything on here or I'd never leave.

 

Have you hammered a or multiple of the studs out? The tone ring isn’t right up against the bearing, you have another spacer just like the inboard side of the tone ring. Popping the studs out allows room for the tool

 

When I knocked them out to use the bearing separator it actually gave me just enough room to wedge the press tool in between. It was really tight, but finally got bearings swapped.

 

I’ve ended up with 3.25mm polished axle showing, which puts the seal 4.5mm on the spacer, with the beveled part of spacer facing outboard.
It’s dead center of the polished portion.

 

Best i could measure it will leave me 6-7mm of clearance to where axle housing tapers.

 

Look at w666 post, you have the taper facing the wrong direction

 

Yep. I’m Trying one of Timmy the tool man tips. I’ll see how it goes

 

The chamfer is probably there to help get the locking sleeve through the seal without damaging the rubber. If it's in and not leaking you're probably fine.

 

Well done. You're pretty much dead nuts on.

 

Looks like it's centered great. With the retainer flipped it can be installed further out like that and mate the seal centered, and that's likely giving the extra space from the housing it sounds like you're measuring.

Read many people have luck with the champher flipped out like Timmy shows, and staying dry on older trucks that seem to be the ones that need this. Think this is the original Timmy gives credit to for the mod.

Did a ton of sluething before swapping on an 03 to decide if should flip the retainer. Looks like the 3rd gen 4R and 00-02 Tundras were right before the 03 Tundra started coming with the new seal style, so there may be a little difference in the axle / housing construction too.

Here's the TSB for 00-02 Tundra that shows the new seal design and what Dr. coffee is for the 3G 4R about how the new seal mates differently to the retainer.

Noted a lot of the owners of older vehicles were posting little to no mating surface with the new seal that doesn't mate to the retainer as far outboard as the original seal. So they flip the retainer.

But noted the '03 came with the new seal style and could see by the polishing on the original retainer that the seal mated with plenty of room on the retainer ... but placement of the new retainer would be crucial. So was able to do it like @remington351 with champher in original orientation at just under 3 mm polished axle and still clear the axle housing.

Might be if a Tundra is 02 or younger the retainer flip mod might work, but might not be necessary for 03 or later, and if have OE when disassembling can try to confirm before swapping bearing if already have the new seal style and it is mating fine.

Hence ... if @bmf4069 is still having issues, since has an 02, one more swap flipping the retainer might just be the ticket?

There's a with reviewer's conclusion with using the new toy seal.

2003 Tundra: Original seal.



2003 Tundra: Note the seal ID on the rubber.



2003 Tundra: ID is same as the new one (and both have the angled seal lip like shown in the TSB.



2003 Tundra: Original fitment on retainer ample but not centered at about 5 mm polished axle showing.



2003 Tundra: Final install centered seal on retainer but at about 3 mm polished axle showing with bevel inward and still clearing axle housing.



No leaking several thousand miles later.