2010 5.7 RCSB Bandit

This is not a rescue! It’s a 2010 5.7 RCSB 4WD Base Model. Here it is the day after I got it home. Swapped tires from the 2WD took it to the Dentex guy @ Toyota dealership to make appointment to remove dent in LH front fender and dent in rear box above the wheel opening. The box dent bothers me most as I can’t figure how anyone could do that!

 

Interior has been very well taken care of. It has 313000 kms on it but whoever put the majority wasn’t an animal. It’s clean no scratches or interior abuse at all. The drivers seat wear isn’t bad to me and the bolster is firm. Just a shorty I figure skidding in and out. I should know! New glass front and rear. The odd differences from this to my SR5 2WD just seem odd to me. I have no issue with manual windows.

 

Nice!

The dash doesn't look too different from my 2012 2wd sr5. Except you have that slide out cup holder and what looks like an ashtray. I don't.

Clean looking.

Wishing you the best of luck with it!

 

Jealous!!! How much did you pay for it?

 

$10K Canadian. It received new glass front and rear, all brake components 354 kms before I bought it!! It came with later model wheels that were mint with Michelin ATX tires which I swapped onto pound puppy. This one got the 3 yr old Cooper ATX3’s. As usual the TPMS isn’t working Grrrrrrrr……but I’ll sort that out soon enough.

 

I have base model with black grill and bumper. So I installed brand new lights with the blacked out trim. Looks really cool. THEN I taped the top of the grill with grey tape. It makes for a straight grill line across the blacked out headlights which I think makes it look cool and a bit tougher. So question is? Do I make the grill and make the grey line permanent? In your opinion. I’m 98% already there. I like cool and I like things just subtlety different.

So here it is taped over.

 

BTW in the very top picture the circle around the truck is a tight walking turn in 4LO over itself 2X. It’s perfect track and runs over itself perfectly. Pretty tight radius turn for a Tundra.

 

Do the grey cover with straight black grille top line. And that turn radius is just sweet. No need to keep bragging. Wish i had one of these rarities

 

Weights of 2010 5.7 RCSB. 4 spare factory wheels were in the back, no tires.
Driver weight say 200 lbs. fuel was 20 gals approx. No cargo or anything else
These are in Kilograms. 1380 kg Front = 3042 lbs Front
1070 kg Rear = 2360 lbs Rear
2470 kg Total = 5445 lbs Total

 

Today I got back from 7 week work rotation. All excited to switch insurance for this truck from
the 2007 2wd. Got that done and the 2010 won’t start. Thought since I bought it and hadn’t done
anything to it probably just crap battery. Normally I completely disconnect batteries from trucks, like my 1987/8 Land Cruiser diesels but I won’t hurt them cause they don’t have computers.
So I used my CTek charger for 2-3 hrs. It just wasn’t accepting a charge so I figured the battery
was toast. I decided to use my AntiGravity Booster to see if it would in fact boost the motor.
It worked, but the truck started, seems to ‘disconnect’ for a couple seconds then started right
up and ran.
So I figured to use the alternator to charge the battery to see if that would work. Drove to town,
Gave it a quick wash from 2 months of sitting under forest, grabbed a couple groceries and drove
home. I left the engine running the whole time.
BUT - the whole time the alternator needle was swinging wildly from charge to discharge.
Could I have damaged the ECM or an ECU or anything computer related by driving with faulty
battery? Local auto supply can’t bring one in until Tuesday. Long Weekend here.
So if anyone thinks I might have issues let me know. I’m partly worried the alternator isn’t
functioning properly but just nothing solid to go on.

 

Cool truck, I'm jealous of the great deal
Probably got mad that it wasn't on insurance and actively racking up miles.

 

Sitting having coffee this morning wandered thru Craigslist in Vancouver and found some wheels. Called the guy. So got 4 new wheels coming tomorrow. Now I can actually go find decent new tires.

 

Little more Black out. 3 layers of Plasti-Coat spray bomb. Took as long for the paint to dry as anything else. Looking better now. Will have to find some matching silver spray for the upper grill insert now.

 

I've been trying to figure out differences in mufflers for the 5.7 Tundra's. Mine is just starting to get some small
rust perforations in the bottom. After much research into aftermarket, I've decided I'd prefer a stock muffler.
Just keeps everything regular and I'm not interested in any kind of sound upgrades.
Can anyone tell me, are the RCSB mufflers inlet sections different that the DC mufflers? I keep finding 'fits all Tundra's
4.6, 4.7 & 5.7. But I don't know for sure.
I'm also asking if anyone with a RCSB in western canada has removed their factory exhaust and has muffler sitting
in a pile unwanted. I found one in the interior for a whole $200 but it's in remote territory. I may still drive up for it,
it's literally in like new condition. Hoping to find one in the Vancouver Lower Mainland area.

 

New Replica wheels 18x8 +60 offset factory
Toyo R/T Trail 285/75R18’s. Balanced easy. Ride nice. Bit stiffer but feel better. Super happy. FYI since it’s asked $2150 includes tires / Taxes / mounting and balancing. It is what it is. Gets lowered and levelled out back soon. 300 km road trip tomorrow so good test. Then retorque the wheels.

 

No poke. Good. No rubbing at all.

 

So today I got my new Morimoto XBs installed. The website installation instructions are very impressive. Right up until the adjustment instructions at which point just a complete fail. Thanks to the guys on another thread for helping me out with what adjusts what. They look so nice with the Smokey lens when off. Really sets the truck up and gives it the look I’ve wanted since day one.



I decided on the sequential turn signal. Kinda cool. Puttin’ on the Ritz!

 

Went out this morning to adjust. Thanks to @Thumper_6119 @COTundie for help. The adjustment is microscopic, and they really were crap initially. I’ve got them close but damned near impossible to find that perfect flat ground against a wall around here. Even these pics it’s not flat. I’m sorta ok with the low beams. Might push the LH side a bit right. But is that Hi Beam splash look what you guys get? It’s really foggy so will have to wait another couple of nights to clear up. Makes a huge difference.

 

Looking good!

Love the smoked lenses with the dark grille combo.

Never looked at the highbeams while adjusting (and don't really use them much anyway), but they throw a VERY wide beam pattern along with the huge amounts of forward illumination. Thy don't have that nice projector cutoff, but they're not projectors, so I won't complain.

 

My buddy is reminding me to paint the upper grill, get that nice straight black line across the headlights. Finish the look.
Low beam is at least as close to acceptable as I can get it.

 

When I put mine on, I thought I was going to put the turn signals on normal flash instead of sequential like the kids do. Then I saw it in sequential mode... and was instantly transformed into a kid.

 

I initially did my adjustments on a flat wall, and I had my lines all measured and planned out. I apparently didn't plan well enough because it was off. I kept getting flashed when only running low beams, and my high beams were in the trees. I got my best (and current) setting from just getting on a long flat road with no traffic and adjusting the beams in the actual environment they were to be used in. (I live in the country, so it is easy to find a good road for that). That worked perfectly.

If I can remember to do it, I'll snap a few night time pics of my lights on the road so you'll have a comparison.

 

My road is pure country, and it's 600 m to the end, but still can't get that correct height above ground to mark cutoff.
I'm really curious how this light is compared to the old FYRLYT'S on the Cruisers. Won't be as bright, but it's a different light.

 

Found a new to me box and tailgate. It's a 2011 TRD box with tailgate in mint condition. No spray in liner but I'll get
that done right and good this time. Its a dark grey metallic colour which I way like more than the 80's silver. So
cab will get a respray soon enough to match the box. Pick it up next week. Ya, road trip!!

 

i love this lil' truk

 

This morning I plugged in my trailer and all the signal/hazard/brake lights work fine. The tail light signal does not. I’m having weird info thru the factory plug. I am using the 4 pin connector. My trailer actually has LED w/back up wire. So I have a 5th wire for the Land Cruiser cause in the bush turning can be enough trouble. Have not had time to add the extra wire to the tundra.
I just installed Morimoto lights and their jumper DRL wire. Is there any reason this could affect the electrical signal to the trailer wiring harness? My brain and common sense say not, but could this electronic LED wiring up front have some kind of effect? If all the lights didn’t work I’d feel better. But I know this worked a couple weeks ago as I just had it hooked up.



This is a copied post from another thread. I’m trying to keep my build thread up to date but I cross over sometimes. Any help here would be appreciated. Probably just a crap connection but all the trailer wire is brand new harness as are the lights. I’m just a putz with a multimeter.

 

So after a frustrating day. I bought the trailer lights from eTrailer because I liked the brand of lights and
I had a set on my boat trailer. This set was an absolute perfect fit to the odd tail light housing I have on my trailer
which was rebuilt in '89 using pipe core as a housing. Indestructible. Anyhow I also ordered a 5 wire harness with
the lights because they actually have a back up light which is freakishly helpful at night. 3 days ago I plugged in, back
into the shop to build new side rails for the trailer. Today the lights didn't work.
Turns out 30A Tow Tail fuse had blown, I have no idea what this is for? There are 5-6 fuses for lights on this truck.
Problem appears to be the wiring harness connector is cheap, and bent the ground connection causing short circuit.
In 40 yrs+ of trailering I've never had a crappy connector like this one. I'm thinking eTrailer discount bulk out of China.
Upon close examination it really is poor quality. I will be contacting eTrailer as they are as good a dealer as anyone.
I am not slagging eTrailer. Just pissed that I am a victim of crap consumerism. That part of rant over.

FYI, for the poor bastards who read this so far. I'm going to retrieve a mint replacement box for my RCSB. It's off
a 2011 TRD Sport - stickers and everything. Mine is pretty cosmetically challenged and this will save me time and
effort repairing previous owner damage and it's a colour that makes me happy to repaint the cab now. People who stack bikes over tailgates should drive Dodges because they have no value so nothing worth something is damaged.
Snow pics to follow, over the Coq, back on Hwy 3. Hotshot run should be fun.

 

ATTACH]

 

MORIMOTO XB HEADLIGHTS: assessment after 2 day winter road trip in all conditions.
Basically the light quality is pretty good. The white light on LOW has nice, albeit limited close in spread.
Ditch coverage close is nice, for making turns and wanting to see ditch corners. They are satisfactory forward
depth but I think should be better. They need more projection on LOW in the center patterns and to be honest
more spread midrange to justify not needing to go to HIGH before its really needed.
The HIGH is a nice bright forward pattern but lacks projection for sure. Definitely need better spread
and Projection on HIGH.
Pro: when driving into traffic in snow and blowing snow the back scatter reflection was very well controlled and
never fatiguing nor distracting. Probably as good a storm headlight as I've ever used.
Was never flashed, they are set up properly and no one took offense to them oncoming. So kudos to Morimoto for that for sure.
Con: Both Low and High need better forward projection and about 15-20% better spread in the beams. This could be incorporated because the cutoff is very well done and proper set up wouldn't make this improvement problematic.

 

Low Beam. Then High Beam. Certainly the Morimotos are miles better than the stock lights.