2010 transmission codes p2714 & p0761

Hey guys, been referencing this forum for a number of years but first time posting a question. I have a 2010 Toyota tundra SR5 5.7 4x4 with the AB60F transmission. I’ve recently been experiencing the dreaded traction control, check engine light and 4 low lights on the dash. It started last winter that it randomly came on, but after a few starts, it disappeared. Fast-forward to about two weeks ago, under normal driving, the lights all came on and I noticed what seem to be transmission slip eventually went into a limp mode. I pulled over disconnected the negative battery terminal waited a few minutes. Reconnected and made it back home. I’ve now experienced that same scenario couple of times each time disconnecting the battery and reconnecting gets me about, 1520 miles of driving before it happens again. Hooked it up to the scanner and have a code P2714. Bought the transmission pressure control solenoid “D” Haven’t gotten it replaced yet but now I have an additional code of P0761. The dealership is unable to tell me which solenoid that is. The code says solenoid C, However, they told me that does not help them with which solenoid it is in particular. My real question is with 240,000 miles on it. Is it worth my time paying to have those solenoids replaced, or do I replace with a used transmission with 64,000 on it for $1900 or pay to have it rebuilt? I value all of your opinions, just looking for a little advice or experience on this matter.

 

The p2714 can indicate the transmission is on its way out. I would try and throw in an extra 1/2 to full quart of WS fluid then test. The AB60 can accommodate an extra quart of atf. You can drop the pan and test the solenoids. Was a trans drain and fill ever done?

 

I’m second owner, I bought with 198k on it had pretty extensive service records in the glove box but nothing with the transmission I came across.. I’ve never changed fluids or filter. without knowing if it had been done on a regular basis I’m always leery of doing that after that many miles on it

 

@2010tundrazac You could try and just do a drain and fill. Drain the pan and just put back what you took out. Most will do this several times to refresh the fluid.

 

With the P2714 code is not the end of the transmission, at least not yet swap those 2 solenoids the SL1 and the C solenoid. The PDF provided by @Mdl can help you narrow it down. If the transmission has never been serviced, grab yourself 6 quarts of WS transmission fluid and drop that pan. You will probably drain 3 1/2 or 4 quarts of fluid from the drain plug itself the pan itself holds 2 additional quarts. If you feel so inclined, grab yourself a transmission fluid filter, most say it's not necessary, but you will have to drop it for solenoid SL1, or your same P2714 code. If you're not replacing it, do replace the O ring gasket that's inside the valve body. In addition, grab yourself all 12 or 8 transmission pan bolts. This is probably the most difficult part of the job as they do tend to snap right at the head. I snapped 2 bolts, and they remain broken and seized in there. The easiest ones that won't snap are the ones that go into the transmission, at least for me they didn't break. You will also need a plastic trim removal tool is what I used to separate the gasket from the transmission. You may also need this gasket, it appears to be reusable, but replace it to be on the safer side. It's more cost effective if you DIY, it's not hard, I did it and it was my first time doing it... Do wear eye protection, if concerned about your hair a beanie, cap, hood may help since you will probably be under the transmission completely.

 

I'd definitely replace those (2) solenoids and refill with clean fluid and see if that works. I had a similar solenoid failure, I could cycle it manually with Techstream and it ohm'd out within range. Replaced it and haven't had an issue since.

Fwiw, the expensive OEM solenoid I bought was the same manufacture as the cheap Amazon ones that are readily available.

 

Nice explanations. I had the p2714 and it went away but I've heard swapping out the solenoid may help.. I've seen others get that code and the trans needed to be rebuilt. I always like the keep it simple and do easy things first!

 

That’s my thought process on things, however, I’m paying a transmission shop to do the work as I don’t have the time they quoted me around $400 to replace the solenoid. I have the solenoid and I’m about to purchase the shift solenoid What’s baffling to me is most shops I’ve talked to about it say the procedure requires dropping the valve body however, I’ve watched a few YouTube videos and it doesn’t appear as that is the case. Do you have any insight on that?

 

Only the pan and filter need to be dropped.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Du5X7LcVX5c&pp=ygUTaXB0IGFiNjAgdmFsdmUgYm9keQ==

 

^^^^^ This right here... I've done this twice, the shop may have never done it with these transmissions as the common theme may be to just replace it when those codes come up.

 

Hi Folks. Not to hijack the Original person's post, but it seems he may be done. I have a 2010 tundra limited/platinum. 165k miles. On my way home last night I too got the limited slip light, 4 lo, and check engine light. Toyota says it is giving the P0761 and P2714 codes. They suggest replacing the transmission. Part cost is $6,600 plus labor. And the part is on back order, so even if I paid the $6k for the part, they have no idea on when it will come in. Not a very happy holiday for me. Suggestions? Thanks in advance and Happy Thanksgiving!

 

You can give level10 or IPT a call for a rebuild. Especially if you tow.
You can have it rebuilt with some quality clutches/new solenoids and a valve body upgrade for longevity.

 

In my limited experience with a couple cars that got similar solenoid faults, those solenoids are symptoms of bigger problems. Never had a transmission shop say they will replace the solenoid because of that. You would have to try yourself.

I would say you are on borrowed time. You can drive until it gives out or just rebuild now if you want to keep the truck.

 

I would swap those solenoids and set some money aside for that rebuild. Taking a swag, if it's 6 grand for a rebuild make a budget to get to that amount in a high yield savings account, or atleast half the amount so its not as bad when you get there. Worse case in less than a year you'll need to rebuild it. Best case you'll save the cash and either sell it, or it'll be totalled and take the fam on a vacation. I'm on year 2 of the P2714 and P0894 codes, neither has come back as of this point 2 other ones did show up and I replaced them and all have been gone.

 

Hello everyone, I would really appreciate some insight from you all. I have a 2007 toyota tundra that is at 199.3k miles. Yesterday, I got flashing VSC off light and the check engine light on. I took it to Auto Zone, and got the error code of C1201, P2714 and P0761. They listed most likely solution as to reprogram the powertrain control module and to reset the engine control module. They also suggested bringing it to a shop to get checked out. This is a truck my dad graciously gave to me, and I would like to try to make it last until after I graduate college this spring. Is there any at home remedies I could try? I appreciate any help.

 

Try a drain and fill and then try solenoids SL1 or C1 as @blackdemon_tt suggested.
The thread has some pdf's for directions.
Lifted this diagram from an older thread.

 

This is what I used to replace my solenoids.
Thanks @Mdl

 

thank you, I appreciate the help and diagram. took it to one place and he recommended me to another place due to me being at 200k with the possibility of more things being wrong in the transmission. said it also had a tsb of 0073-09. not sure if i should still take a stab at doing it on my own after hearing that

 

Call the stealership ahead and see if they'll honor it. If they don't call another.. My window switch was replaced in 2018, I did print the sheet out to show them.

 

I had issues recently with my 2010 with about 150k miles. Cold everything was fine, but warmed up it felt like it was slipping from a stop, and also banging into 6th gear. Come to find out I couldn’t manually over ride to the truck to stay in 1st or 2nd, it was trying to take off in 3rd so it made it feel like it was slipping. Pulled codes and it had pending p2714. So I replaced solenoid pressure control D (also known as SLT). Didn’t make any difference. Did some more research and decided to replace S2, SL1, and I think the other was SLU. The issue was immediately fixed and shifts great now.

I was very close to just replacing the whole unit, assuming you can even find them because Toyota is on back order and LKQ doesn’t have any.

 

Good you got it sorted out. Rostra makes a lot of OEM solenoids and are well made. Rockauto has decent prices.

 

That’s a good cross reference sheet for part numbers. I had to make one too just so the guy at Toyota could order the right ones. I ended up spending exactly $1,000 on the 4 solenoids, and that’s with wholesale pricing from Toyota. I probably could have went with rock auto and saved a lot of money.

when I pulled out S2 I noticed it had different markings, not sure if someone has already been into it since I bought it with 100k miles already on it.
fixed on Saturday for the beach on Sunday!

 

I put an S4 rostra in my DC to address my issues. I am pretty confident that aisin gets their solenoids from rostra. They are good quality and a leading supplier. They make all the thermostatic oil control valves for the aviation industry. Huge oversight in that business and only the top quality suppliers can survive.

 

A member here just replaced his trans with a dealer reman. Apparently no problem ordering it and it was like $3800. But good thing you got it squared away with the solenoids.

 

It's amazing what you come across with google. Good thing because OEM is expensive and lots of times it's available from the actual manuf at a huge discount. @Mdl, something else to keep in mind now, Rostra, if ever a solenoid issues pops up with the trans.

Couple years back I had to replace the starter on my 07 Trailblazer SS. They are a pain so you want a good starter so you dont have to do it again in a year. Dealer only sold remans at around $350. Found the original Remy starter for like $150.

 

I would recommend replacing the filter with that many miles, also be careful when putting the bolts back on cuz when i was putting my filter on one of the bolts snapped a piece of the main control off and I had to replace the whole thing...

 

All,
Got the P2714 code on our 2010 Tundra with 176k miles. Would anyone have the PDF diagram for that transmission or the solenoid numbers associated with this transmission, vin 5TFEY5F17AX077386?

I went to the dealer for a price quote. Not surprising, parts clerk said it was a different transmission than the 2009 AB60F PDF diagram shown early in the thread. Parts clerk was fairly annoyed to be helping me look up solenoids. The prices were $500 per solenoid and filter was $250 or so.

After that experience I am planning to fix at home and not order parts from the dealer. Any help is appreciated, and I apologize if I missed the info somewhere else in the forum.

 

Find a new parts place...news to me that the ab60 changed I believe 2007-2017 and up to 21 are typical parts wise.
Good for part number reference.
https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/toyota#sales-region=U.S.A.

 

Here is every document I have that may be of use to anyone trying to DIY a transmission issue.

Solenoid callouts, schematics, wiring diagrams, proper fluid level check instructions, and torque specs for most bolts on the transmission.

 

This is super helpful and great timing, thanks for sharing.

I have a Solenoid D stuck off, so I'm going to test in techstream and then drop the pan to replace the SLT which should be the culprit!