2010 tundra transmission full fluid filter change

Is worth to change the fluid and filter on a tundra with 150k miles? Toyota wants $530 here in ks

 

Don't drop the pan for the filter change, more than likely to break more than half of the bolts. I broke 9 of the 12.

Drain and fill x3 to get most of the old fluid out. Then drain and fill every 30k or so, more if you are actually using the Tundra as a truck.

 

i had my 2011 crewmax changed at 150k by a shop that has been doing transmissions for 50 plus yrs. black as hell broke 5 bolts off bit only had to put a helix coil in one of them. i had it flushed because it was so dirty. runs great i had it done 30k later but just drained thats all they recomend. oh i had the filter changed the first time. i am the 3 rd owener of this truck and love it. the cost was 300 for the whole job.

 

Well if they brake the bolt i will get charged?

 

Don’t mess with dropping the pan to change out the filter it’s unneeded and a risk to break bolts. With older transmissions it’s a good idea to do a drain and fill ( about 4 qts) every 50-60k miles. You don’t want to get the fluid too clean as the internals of the transmission wears the tolerances increase the “stuff” in the fluid will help the clutch’s in good working order. It is possible that the transmission will start to slip if you remove too much

 

+1 on not dropping the pan. I only broke 2 bolts but there is just a strainer inside. If it gets stopped up you have more issues than changing fluid would fix.

 

Drain pan. Pump in same amount as drained through cooler return line or fill port. Then Pump out a gallon at a time from the transmission cooler line (cooler thermostat pinned open) by starting and running the truck. 1 gal gets pumped out, You pump 1 in through return line. Do this three times and then perform the level check procedure. This will essentially replace all of the fluid with little mess. Took me about a 1.5 hrs first try. The filter is a screen, so likely no need to change.

 

Just recently did mine. I hit what I could of the threads on the nuts with pb blaster a couple of day before. The day I did it I test broke loose every nut right after getting home from work while everything was still hot and no broken nuts.

My truck spent it's life in the south though and nuts looked to be in good shape with only one having a little surface rust.

Simply put if you think the nuts look okay test them out while it's hot and drop pan to change filter. You want to keep the fluid as clean as you can. Could avoid a valvebody or solenoids issue down the line.

You can also get more ATF out by bropping the pan. I got about 7qts out of mine dropping pan, changing filter, and and letting it drain over night.

 

Drain/fill, life is good.

 

Did the gasket and filter at Toyota they broke 3 bolts, had “ a warmer hose leaking “ total damage $980.
I still have a leak i think is the cooler housing or warmer maybe, has anyone had the same leak?

 

To those saying "don't get the fluid to clean" that is just terrible advice and the logic is from 30 years ago. Stop!

Fluid technology isn't what it was circa 1950 to 1990 when fluid would varnish creating a physical buildup around moving and reciprocating parts. And ya, ATF is extremely high in detergent and fresh ATF could *back in the day* rinse the varnish away making internal leaks, and yes, fresh fluid could take an old transmission out of service. But those rules no longer apply to WS fluids of today...

PS if your truck is from the rust belt, soak the bolts with with your favorite product starting a week before you plan to drop the pan. Do it at lesst twice and drive it. It works magic.

IMO - drop the pan and filter to get the most fluid out possible. From my days at AAMCO Transmission, they are rebuilt/assembled with ATF. You fill the pan with 3 to 4 quarts and fire them up, and start filling ASAP.

Point - ATF will do its job keeping the reciprocating parts lubricated once it's started but not fully filled and that starting the engine with an empty pan is not going to harm the trans for the 5 seconds it's running. What it will do (with the filter off) is get another 1 to 2 quarts of oil out getting more than half the fluid out of the pan which means more new fluid can be pumped in.

If you have the tow package, don't forget to push the bypass valve in and pin it when checking the level.

Cheers

 

I kept getting conflicting temperature ranges for when to check the trans fluid. Each Youtube video or service recommendation had different temperature ranges for when to open the overflow port and when to plug the port and let the fluid cool before checking.

I opened each of the attachments that Brums provided above.

Here are the temperatures in Fahrenheit for each transmission type.

TIS shows 5 different code transmissions for 2012:
A750E - 97 - 115
A760E - 127 - 138
A760F - 127 - 138
AB60E - 99 - 111
AB60F - 99 - 111

You can find the code for which transmission is in your truck of the inside of the driver's door. It is in the lower left corner of the sticker.

 

What fluid is everyone using for transmission? Since it holds 11 quarts is it okay to mix fluids? Idk what’s in mine so if I drain 4 quarts can I add 4 quarts of whatever I want into it?

 

In a pinch you could since they are supposed to be "WS" compatible. I'm in the camp of only using Toyota WS in the transmission but will use Idemitsu or AISIN WS fluid too if Toyota is unavailable.

 

so should I dump and fill every 500 miles like 3 times of that so I know it’s got good oil in it?

 

From the different threads seems like some do a partial pan drain/fill and it does fine. I do a complete drain and fill when it's time.

 

That's what I had done for my 2013 Tundra 5.7L by the shop this year (drain and fill) at the 91,000-mile. I don't know it is my imagination, but the transmission shifting is quite smooth now (feels strong without any hiccups). Since I don't drive it very much I will have the same work done again a couple of years from now.