2011tundra starts then immediately dies

Hey everyone I'm new to the site and hope someone can help. My truck will crank very easily and fire up for about a second then dies when I allow the key to return to the on position. If I hold the key in the start position and the starter is still cranking I can actually rev up the motor with the gas pedal, only did this once or twice because I did not want to damage my starter. Checked every fuse and replaced the battery as well. No codes stored and no check engine light, only lights displayed is the 4LO and traction control. I'm at a loss any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Not sure if it helps but I had a 85 Celica that was stolen. When I got it back it was missing the hose from the air cleaner to the throttle body. It would start then immediately die. Turns out the mass air flow sensor was on the air cleaner box and wasn't seeing any air flow. But because the sensor itself wasn't damaged the ECU didn't think there was a problem. But that was way back when and things have come a long way.

 

I've seen this before that it's a problem with the immobilizer key. Search around in here. Maybe try another key if you have one.

I've had a similar issue with a Lowe battery. It would crank but wouldn't hold an idle. Jumping it for a few minutes fixed it.

 

My truck does this if I disconnect the battery for a long period of time. It stays running in the second attempt. Maybe that is a clue?

Check your battery. My father in law's Chevy was doing this. Turned out to be a batter only delivering 11v. Enough to start, but not enough to run?

 

So my 2008 Tundra does this same thing every now and then. It will start, the rpm's will shoot up, then as the rpm's come back down they just immediately go to zero and the truck stalls. It may even do this a few times in a row. I've even had times where it won't even turn over after the first try, it just cranks and cranks until it times out. And if I give it gas while starting it, the rpm's will stay up, but as soon as I take my foot off that gas, it immediately dies again. Every time this has happened, if I just wait a couple minutes, start it again with a lot of gas peddle, it will stay running and be just fine; no check engine lights or anything.

I would say over the last 5 years, this has happened to me 6 or 7 times. It seems to be totally random. When I scan my truck with an OBD2 scanner, it does have the B2799 (Engine Immobiliser system) code in the history, as chrisf111 mentioned above. It also has the U0100 (Lost communication with ecm/pcm 'a') code. I haven't found much on these codes. They are both in the history and not current so they aren't throwing any lights. As of right now, I haven't found a fix. My current goal is to get a good video of the dash and tachometer with my phone the next time it happens. I always forget. Also, last week, my secondary air injection system went bad which did cause a check engine light. I replaced it. I have no idea if it had anything to do with our starting problem or not. We'll see I guess. I wish I could give you more answers. I've done some research. This doesn't seem to be a real common problem. Or at least not very many sites are talking about it.

 

About a month ago I got in my 2008 and it would start and immediately die. No check engine light. I let the truck sit for about an hour and went back to start it and the check engine light came on, PO118 code, coolant temperature sensor. I bought a new sensor from the dealer, installed and cleared the code and the problem has not returned.

 

Mine does the same! If I take off terminals to clean and reconnect, first start fires up and dies. Afterwards no issues.

I think it helps to leave key in ON position few seconds before cranking and she doesn't stall.

 

The reason some of these trucks die right away after disconnecting the terminal is because when you first open the switch on the truck after having had the battery disconnected, it begins loading the firmware again like any computer does with the OS at start up. If you try starting the truck right away it will turn itself off until the firmware is finished loading. So instead, if you simply open the switch and wait about 1 minute the firmware finishes loading and then you can fire it up and it will stay on instead of shutting off right away.

But it sounds like that’s not what the OP is describing. The immobilizer someone mentioned could be a good place to start though but I’ve heard these keys are meant to get a static charge so it isn’t suppose to be an issue.

Have there been recent changes to the truck? An alarm install?

 

Thanks guys for all the info, I have not made any changes to the truck, I was on vacation for a week, came home and wouldn't start. I've got a new battery, verified the immobilizer is working and still the exact same issue. Rechecked fuses, I think the main issue is that the check engine light does not come on in pre start so no communication with pcm.

 

Have you inspected the MAF to confirm it’s clean, plugged in, or anything similar? And do you have remote start on the truck, if so, will it stay running if you start it using the remote start?

 

I know this is not a Tundra but on my 2011 Highlander I changed the air filter and this rig did the start stop once then after a second restart it was fine. So maybe it does have something to do with the mass air flow sensor as it was unplugged to remove the top air filter housing to change the air filter. It is unfortunate that these electronic nightmares do weird things. That is why people like the old school stuff as it is still simple.

 

I'm still at a loss, new air filter and the cleaned the MAF and even changed it with another running trucks MAF. No remote start on the truck, need to figure out why there is not communication with the pcm. Going to try another code reader before I end up taking it to the shop.

 

You might try disconnecting the battery negative cabler for a minute or two and reconnect and do again what beehivetundra says and see if it loads up correctly. It could be also effected by the immobilizer maybe something has gone hinky with that system.

 

Any update? My 2014 Tundra is doing the same exact thing now.

 

My 2010 does this, when I disconnect battery and re connect it will fire up. I did have a problem before with limpmode and it was something you do with emissions sensor. Fixed with bypass kit so that problem is gone but still will die after a start . This has been happening more frequently in the summer