2018 Tundra 5.7L intermittent no start/extended crank

I have a 2018 with 165,000 miles on a 5.7L Non-Flex Fuel. Randomly, it doesn't want to start after sitting for a while. It usually does this in the mornings, or when leaving work after sitting all day.

The battery is good, it cranks just fine until it eventually starts after several attempts.

Once started, it runs fine and starts normally afterwards.

I have replaced the battery in my key to rule out any security nonsense.

I have searched my VIN for the fuel pump recalls I've seen mentioned during my searches. My truck is not listed for a recall. Again, once started it runs fine.

 

I know you did a search, but is yours the flex fuel 5.7? If you've ruled out your battery, it does sound like a fuel system issue.

 

Sorry, non-flex fuel. I will edit to clarify.

 

bump...

 

How old is your battery?

 

I have a similar issue on one of my Honda Pilot and for the past 4 years dealer couldn't fix it or diagnose it. I am waiting for it to die and go from there

 

If the battery is good then it is either fuel issue or spark issue. 165K miles, did you change your spark plugs yet? I think the book calls for them to be changed around 120K miles.

 

Subbing as I just picked up an 18 with 32,500 miles on it and it sits 5 days a week as I drive my company provided truck.

No codes? Could be fuel related, pump, filter (do they have one?), injectors, throttle body. Heck when were the spark plugs last changed or induction cleaned. Even clean or replace the battery connectors especially if they had crud on them before.

All guesses of course.

 

battery is 3 years old but still strong, has no trouble cranking at all.

Original spark plugs, could be an issue but runs fine once started and starts fine after the initial battle is won. I'll be sure to replace them soon and see if it makes any difference.

It does give off a puff of white/grey smoke when it finally starts after giving trouble.

No codes.

 

Having the original spark plugs make me think you may have the original PCV valve. Replace that too. Can't hurt and I remember reading this...

"If you have trouble starting your engine, it can be as a result of a failed PCV valve. Black smoke in the exhaust, or oil-fouled spark plugs can indicate that your PCV valve is stuck open and is allowing oil to enter the combustion chamber through the air intake."

https://www.autozone.com/diy/sympto...ouble starting,chamber through the air intake.

 

Yes, original PCV valve as well. Thought that would probably throw a code but maybe not.

 

More ideas...

https://www.wheelsjoint.com/toyota-tundra-wont-start-causes-and-how-to-fix-it/

 

Turn the key into position II, wait a few seconds, move to III. If it starts reliably then you need a new fuel pump.

 

Interesting. So what position II does it engages the fuel pump and it gives some time to catch up (if defective) and when you go to III it should start right away? Will this test have to be repeated few times to ensure consistent behavior?

I am asking because I could use this for my Honda Pilot similar issue I am sure the principle is the same

 

This is common for any vehicle with a ball valve in fuel pump that keeps the line pressurized and does not let the fuel drain back to tank. I have it in my 2005 Volvo with 270k miles. One day I replace the pump... When the valve does not hold the pressure the pump needs a few extra seconds in the morning to build it up.

 

I grew up with a Volvo 240. I still have it. Is SOLID

 

Mine has 20 out 24 original rear subframe bushings and the fuel pump. Everything else has been fixed or replaced. Still love it

 

I know you said the battery is good but have you done a full load test on it? My battery was "good" on my 2020 with the initial test but the dealership had to put a full load on it for it to finally show a bad cell.

 

@ToyoMafia

 

Need to get a computer hooked up and see what’s going on. I’ll be damned if this truck goes back to Toyota even under warranty

 

Hello fellow turbobricker.

 

My truck (2018 5.7 no FF with 52k) does this. The dealer had it for 10.5 months to replace the fuel pump. Monday it did it again.

 

LOL, don't get me started with the 3rd generation LOL. I like my trucks raw power

 

Twin turbos on the v8 would be alright

 

Will be super nice actually if there was a V8 in there. Can you imagine?

I have a dual dinan turbo on my V12 and OMG that car can absolutely FLY.

 

Sounds like it’s the fuel pump and or the fuel lines are losing pressure (check valve in the fuel pump). Dropping the tank and replacing the fuel pump isn’t too bad of a job, that’s what’s needed. Might run a can of of seafoam through the gas tank before you do anything else though.

 

Fuel pump control module ?? Need to confirm part #..

 

It is usually just a PWM amplifier. When it goes bad, engine has hard time running under load or at all.

 

I have a 2018 tunrda 148,000 miles is doing the same exact thing what did you find it out to be??

Thanks

 

Haven't resolved it yet, had it on a computer and it gave some start error codes. I was told it needed to go to Toyota for a computer flash update.