2025 TRD PRO Sequoia High Level Input

I'm installing a powered sub in my Sequoia and I'm looking at the factory sub as a high level input for the amplifier. Has anyone used the factory sub to provide this?

The plug on the sub is the same as the Tundra brown, green, black, and grey wires. The sub is obviously dual voice coil with 4 wires and shown on the wiring diagram. I'm not sure which wires to connect to. Has anyone done this in a 3rd Gen Sequoia or a Tundra? Thanks.

 

just get a harness from t@acotunes

 

Overpriced, I figured it out on my own with a meter and some testing. I just wanted to know if anyone had the info first.

 

Taken from fb post

Here's information on how to improve the anemic subwoofer in their Sequoia. Full disclosure, back in the day I worked in high end mobile audio. I have worked on IASCA winning vehicles in SQL and SPL categories. I have tried to explain below in simple terms so everyone can understand.

I opted for a Rockford Fosgate P300 12" powered subwoofer for a few good reasons. You will need the powered sub, a 4 AWG amplifier installation kit, 3-4 ft of quality speaker wire, 2 T wire taps, and 2 spade terminals. Wire loom if you are concerned about looks, protection, and clean installation.

You will need to pull off the rear battery compartment cover for battery access. You will need to pull the top of rear left trim panel loose or off to access the factory sub wiring. Once the panel is pulled loose look for a black 4 wire plug on top of the subwoofer assembly. It will have brown, green, black, and grey wires (pictured). You will need to use the T-tap connector on the green WF1- and brown WF1+ wires. Attach your spade connectors to your purchased speaker wire. Plug the spade connectors into the corresponding positive and negative T-taps. Run your speaker wire back to the battery area for now. Connect your amplifier wiring as directed in its instructions and wire it to the Rockford quick disconnect block that comes with your sub. You do not need a remote turn on wire for the P-300 sub. Connect the speaker wire from the factory sub to the high level Plug that comes with the sub. You will cut the RCA plugs off the connector, wire the gray and white positive together and the gray and white negative together and wire them to the corresponding positive and negative on your speaker wire.

I installed the sub on the drivers side by flipping the box upside-down. It fits perfectly this way and does not move around. The sub comes with super sticky Velcro if you want to Velcro it down. You can recline the rear seats all the way back and push them all the back for max leg room.

Clean up and run your wiring in an organized manner. I routed mine from the battery compartment under the rear plastic tray and through a small cut out that's already there.

Plug the quick disconnect power/ground block and the high level speaker plug into the sub box. As previously mentioned you dont need a remote turn on wire. There is a switch lableled auto turn on. Flip the switch to audio. Make sure the input level switch is flipped to high because you are using the high level inputs for your signal. It also comes with a remote gain knob. I'm looking for somewhere to mount it up front still that looks good.

That's it, took me about 30 minutes to install and it is plenty of bass. It is actually overkill, but it's better to have more than not enough. Funny side note, you can really hear the fake engine noise with the amplifier gains turned up lol.

 

That's actually my FB post lol...