5.7L Secondary Air Injection Valve OEM Part#

Hey, guys. I've done the research about this common issue but want to confirm info and valve part number. Here's the info:

2008 5.7L 4WD Double Cab

Check engine: ON
Traction control: ON
VSC OFF: Flashing
4LO: Flashing

Was working fine with no codes prior to the following codes:
P2440: SAIS switching valve stuck open (Bank 1)
C1201: Engine Control System Malfunction

Here is what I've gathered from my research on this site:

• I live in CA, so no bypass.
• I have the 5.7L, so there's only the one module center rear of engine (as opposed to separate on 4.6L)
• I suspect C1201 is just because of limp mode caused by P2440.
• I know that this can happen again with replaced valves, and there's probably already corrosion in the pumps. But I'm just looking at the valves right now to address the code.
• @Landodnal has a killer tutorial on doing the valve swap. I have had to take off my intake manifold to replace my knock sensor wiring harness chewed up by mice, and this looks to be the exact same level of disassembly: https://www.tundras.com/threads/sec...up-check-engine-light-with-p2441-code.108217/

I'm having trouble confirming the exact OEM part number for the valve assembly that needs to be replaced. I think it is 25701-38064? Or 25710-31012? And is all the information I've gathered from this wonderful site of info correct? Thanks, guys!

 

25701-38064 This is for the 5.7l V8 models

25710-31012 This is for the V6 models

 

Thanks for the confirmation!

 

So how did everything go? All fixed?

 

Well, the project got stalled. The Toyota dealership sent me the correct part, but the plastic nipple on one of the sensors that the hose attaches to snapped off in transit. They've sent a replacement, but it required me to first send the old one back (on their dime). So a new one is coming!

I did take out the old valve before I realized the new valve was damaged, so the truck has been sitting out of commission. I was originally planning to just take the valve tops off like you did and leave the valve bodies in. But 4 out of the 8 torx screws had the heads strip out or snap off. So plan A was a bust as I wasn't thrilled about drilling out so many screws right next to a major wiring harness.

Then I went to plan B of leaving the metal hose attached to the passenger-side of the valve body, and unbolting that metal hose on the non-valve side from the passenger wheel well. That was also a bust since the nuts that hold that metal hose were so corroded away and rust-welded to the hose's posts, I'd have to cut them off. Again, a major wiring harness was running down the chassis at that spot, and also other exhaust parts I wouldn't want to knick.

So plan C, I was able to first remove the two bolts holding the valve body on the driver's side. Second, remove the first bolt on the passenger side of the valve body that isn't obstructed. Third, back out the obstructed bolt on the passenger side of the valve body as far as possible, then shimmy the valve body loose enough to scoot it toward the driver's side a little. This allows for more travel of the obstructed bolt until the valve body is free. The obstructed bolt remains captured in the truck even after the bolt is out. Luckily, the valve body bolts are likely stainless so they were not corroded.

So now I have to get replacement seals, but the old valve is out and a new one is on the way. Hopefully this clears the codes!

 

Nice! Sounds like a pain in the rear end, but you didn't let it beat you. Good work. Nothing worse than rusted bolts. I hope the install goes smooth for you. Let us know.

I think if I ever have more issues, I'll just go with the bypass. I'm in Ohio, so I shouldn't have any issues.

 

Ahh, Ohio. Then you certainly know the plight of the rusted bolts. For sure will update. I'm with ya with doing the bypass if I could!