A/C Compressor Catastrophic Failure

Hi All,
My A/C stopped working. I live in Florida. It's July and the hottest summer ever. Any help is very welcomed.
I always believed my 2015 Tundra Limited was hot on the outside, but now it's REALLY HOT on the inside!!!
I had it checked out and was told it was a catastrophic failure of the compressor. The mechanic took a crowbar and tried to turn the compressor but it was locked up. He said I need to replace the compressor, condenser and have it recharged...over $1200.
I looked online and don't think it's that big of a job.
As I'm not familiar with A/C repair I'm very open to advice.
Some initial questions:
Do I really need to replace the condenser?
Should I only buy OEM Denso parts which do cost more?
Is it OK to rechargethe system myself when installation is complete?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

If the failure was “catastrophic” as the mechanic says, he’s recommending you replace the condenser because tiny metal particles MAY have been strewn throughout the lines and could cause a blockage in the condenser/receiver drier etc.

What you’re going to need is a decent set of refrigerant manifold gauges, an A/C vacuum pump and whatever the recommended amount of Freon for the truck is.

You’d discharge the system, remove and replace the parts, seals, etc. then run a vacuum on the system for 30 minutes to 1 hour to verify there are no leaks, then charge the system with the Freon to the recommended pressures for your ambient temperatures.

 

He is strictly AC repair.

 

Thanks for the quick responses.

Hey Slag_Dynamics, I'm looking at a complete kit from GPD Products on carparparts.com for under $400. Any thoughts on 3rd party parts?

 

Price seems very reasonable. Considering the age of the truck and your geographic location, I think it would be a very wise investment.

 

Honestly, I am about to do a system replacement on a Honda Odyssey this next weekend. I snagged a CSF Condenser, GPD Seal Kit, GPD High Side and Low Side Valves and a GPD Compressor from Rock Auto. I’ve had good luck with Rock Auto, although it appears they drop ship at times based on warehouse locations and do charge tax. They do also have compete A/C kits.

If I could find an OEM compressor within $100 of the GPD I’d maybe consider the OEM, but I’ve read a lot of good reviews on the GPD ones and they’re new, not remanufactured.

 

Also, keep in mind it’s typically only a 12 month warranty on AC parts, and there are stipulations that you have to prove you did an AC flush, replaced condenser, etc. prior to them honoring the warranty. Which is another reason places push to replace the additional components at the same time.

 

Here are some good generic resources for when you re-introduce the Freon into the system and try to get your pressures right.

I don’t know your mechanical aptitude, but I will say the AC systems can be a pain to dial in. Not always as simple as just swapping parts and plugging things in, but entirely doable with the correct tools and patience.

I know the dealer wanted +\- $1200.00 to do the Odyssey and all in through Rock Auto and 36 oz of Freon I’m at around $350.00 in parts.

 

If the compressor has locked up as described then it can send small metal parts from the compressors pistons throughout the entire system. You should really replace the entire system (compressor, condenser, evaporator core, txv) the lines can be flushed out with brake clean and compressed air. Typically at the dealer with labor and factory parts this runs around 10k, no joke its insane. But when the a/c lines are taken off the compressor you can stick a q-tip in the lines and if the oil gray/black or gritty then your out of luck, if not your good just replace the compressor.

I would highly recommend to replace the parts with denso only, they are the oem supplier for toyota a/c parts and I have seen way to many issues with aftermarket ones causing issues or just failing without reason.

99% of the time when a compressor locks up like this is because of a leak in the system causing the pag oil to leak out which is the lubricant used in the system. A new denso compressor comes precharged with enough oil for the entire system but if there is a leak present anywhere it can cause premature failure again with the new unit.

 

@pcdoctor911, that price is reasonable. I am about to pay for the same repair on my mom's Subaru. Compressor alone is $800 for Subaru.
Reason he suggested additional items is because a mechanical failure could send particles of metal large enough to plug up the condenser.
The repair should include compressor, condenser, orifice tube, filter/drier. The labor cost will include evacuating the system, flushing the lines, replacement of components, evacuating the system again to pull a vacuum which will then be held for about 20-30 minutes to ensure there aren't any leaks, then refilling the system with the proper amount of refrigerant by weight.
While you could save money by replacing the parts yourself, doing so will likely make it so there is no warranty on the repair. You can't refill it yourself unless you have the correct tools to evacuate and refill the system.

All said, bite the bullet and pay to get it done by someone with the tools and experience.

 

got to Denso website and get an identical Toyota compressor for a fraction of the price of Toyota dealership and exponentially better than aftermarket crap. DENSO is OEM for Toyota. My Lexus compressor when out, Desno was $280, Lexus wanted $1200 for just part. Identicle numbers on compressor as original. That was 60K miles ago, blows 39F out vents....

 

You guys have been incredible with the replies and support. Thanks so much.
I'm leaning towards going with the mechanic because I do want the warrantee. Also, I don't have a garage here, just a canopy to put over the truck, but IT IS FLORIDA and 100°+ so I think I'll play it smart and bite the bullet.

 

Yeah man, probably a good call. AC systems can be pretty complicated and it’s nice to be able to be mad at someone other than yourself if there’s an issue!

 

Hey Slag_Dynamics,
How did you quote my particular post? I'm new to this and can't find it.

 

Never mind...found it.

 

No chance my problem could be the A/C fuse, could it? (Still looking for a way out)

 

Could be a fuse, could also be the compressor clutch only

 

The issue is the mechanic saying he “took a crowbar and tried to turn the compressor but it was locked up” this sounds like a seized compressor. If that’s the case, a fuse won’t do much good.

 

What happens when the truck is running and you try to turn it on?

 

When I turn on the ac I don't hear the usual click which I assume is the clutch engaging in the compressor. Instead, I hear approx 1 - 2 seconds of a grinding sound which then stops. I'm guessing that would rule out the fuse.

 

Pretty sure you should watch some YouTube and see if you can remove the belt and do some troubleshooting to see if you don't just need a new clutch assembly. I'm not convinced that you have a bad compressor yet. There's a huge difference between the costs and a bunch of work in the heat too.

 

So I just spoke with the mechanic. He said that they sent him the wrong condenser so he changed the dryer sock instead, to my advantage???? $200 less. Am I getting scammed here?

 

Dryer "sock" referes to the desiccant pouch that is inside the receiver/drier assembly. I was not aware the Tundra has a serviceable one. But, it does appear available, so maybe it does.
However, I don't understand why he would not just suggest waiting 2 days extra to get the correct condenser assembly. The receiver/drier is after the condenser in the flow path if I remember correctly. That would still help protect further down the line but would do nothing to prevent the condenser from plugging up if there is debris. Hopefully, he at least does a reverse flush of the condenser and flushes the lines.

 

I hope so too. I'm learning as we go.
Question: I hope he flushed it but If there is debris in the line would I know within 1 year? That's my warranty.

 

I had a truck that the dryer bag blew up inside the system and they had to replace almost everything in the system.

 

My daughter’s Sportage had a locked up compressor. OEM was Denso. Found one online in a auto wrecker. IIRC it was under $100 shipped. Installed it along with new o-rings. Vacuumed it down and replaced oil and refrigerant. Worked great.

 

Nice