ABS, Brake & Traction Control Lights on

Just got home from a road trip with the fam- next morning start the truck & ABS, Emergency Brake & Traction Control lights are all on (solid, not blinking). Checked the associated fuses (10, 14, 38 & 39) based on @Tundra234's post & pulled the negative battery terminal. no luck. Any other quick fixes that I'm missing?

**UPDATE & SOLUTION** 11/2023

Well, after clearing the code on the initial problem at 172,xxx and having no issues since, the 3 lights came back on at 201,xxx. Unfortunately, the culprit was the ABS control module. So for anyone else having this issue, there's your solution. The part from Toyota is expensive- $1350 plus labor.

 

anybody?

 

Should never pull fuses before trying to read codes. Need to read abs codes...

 

Try this... https://www.tundras.com/threads/reading-abs-vsc-codes-without-a-scan-tool-2nd-gen-and-more.62732/

 

Helpful @Dalandshark - thanks. No check engine light came on, so no codes were in the system (confirmed w/ a scan tool I borrowed.)

Checked the ABS wiring & connections under the truck and all looked ok- some other threads indicated this might be the culprit. Reset the VSC by doing a zero point calibration- that cleared all the lights, but they immediately came back on after driving a few hundred feet.

ugh. I'm at a loss

 

Great find @Trident. Saw that on another thread as well. Unfortunately, my light combo is not on the chart. Closest combo looks like a bad wheel sensor.

 

Ok, I didn’t have a CEL either but did have a traction control code in the ABS computer... which my Amazon $20 WiFi scan tool can’t read. So just be sure your scanner can read the abs codes.

Otherwise I’m out of ideas. Good luck and hopefully someone else will have experienced this and have some good input.

 

Lot of times, it's the wheel speed sensor. Just guessing here.

 

Is there anything not working? Climate control, radio, windows, ect? Check for power to all your fuses under the drivers side dash kick plate.

 

ahh...roger. don't think mine can read ABS codes.

 

nope- everything works great. haven't checked fuses under the dash yet- good idea. hopefully tomorrow

 

A couple weeks ago my ABS & VSC lights came on, steady not flashing, and the cruise and incline assist (or whatever it's called) stopped working. Last week I switched the winter snows for summer tires. Upon restarting the engine I noticed the ABS & VSC lights were off and the cruise and incline assist were again working fine. Yesterday I had new summer tires mounted at a shop, decided to run it up to 75 or so to check the balance and the ABS/VSC lights came back on and the cruise and incline assist were no longer working.
I think the root problem is an ABS sensor, what do you guys think?

If I'm reading the chart above correctly it appears to indicate 'right wheel sensor misalignment'

 

Just went out to get some OBD codes, pulled it out of the garage and the lights went off and it's all back to normal again. No lights, cruise, hill assist and power are all back. What to do now?

I'm thinking a scanner that lets me 'real time' all 4 wheels at once and maybe get a hint of what's going on?

 

Went out for a trial run, everything seemed fine for 10 miles or so, then the cruise and hill assist stopped working. No lights came on. 4 more miles the abs & traction lights lit up again.

 

C1201 maybe?? ABS fault... ABS is probably gone, I had similar flashing and I didn't know the ABS is gone until I skidded clear across an intersection when a yahoo decided to take the plunge... I did zero point calibration and it appeared to resolve the issue.

 

Thanks! I'll look into that.

I have an ABS capable reader coming from Amazon maybe today. Hope to have better information then...providing I got the right reader. Anybody using this one?

$100 Autel AutoLink AL619 OBD2 Scanner | 2025 ABS/SRS/CAN Diagnostic Tool | Read/Erase Codes, Check Engine Light, OBDII Live Data & DTC Library | Upgrade for AL519, ML519, ML619 (Vehicle-Specific)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PQJTQN2?ie=UTF8

 

I bought the blue driver one. because I planned to buy a BMW... so I wanted one that could read all makes. When I bought it, I could turn off the TPMS but an update removed that option.. Ultimately I think my problem was my rear suspension as 1 was sticking.. I changed the rears and I haven't had that problem since

 

I will be getting a TPMS capable scanner also at some point. Going to do a zpc after lunch, see how that goes. Uncertain if the truck needs driving at 25mph + for 10 minutes though...one video mentioned it, a couple others didn't?

 

Went out to do the ZPC, all the lights are off, everything performing normally. Is there any point in a ZPC under those conditions?

 

When was the last time the battery was checked/replaced? If it is low on volts, going bad, Ive seen that cause many different lights/alerts that would normally seem unrelated. If the volts are low, then the truck systems may not be getting full power needed, and can throw various faults depending on the system. Something to check, especially with the issue coming and going.

But yes, you are on the right track, usually those alerts are the sensors, wires to that system (cut, nick, rodent damage) or the system is not getting the amount of volts it needs to function.

 

ABS sensor

 

Not sure how old the battery is but the current voltage is 12.45. The engine has been off for a couple hours.

 

I have a reader coming Monday...hoping to get some info then.

 

Granted, I'm no genius with my new scan tool but after a bit of fumbling around I got a C1 249 fault code. "open circuit in stop light switch circuit". There are no warning lights on on the dash now and everything is working fine so I'm wondering if it's indicating there was a code recently. This code appears related to the abs.

 

Looking for causes of a C1 249 code and noticed 'bad taillight bulb' so had my wife follow behind me and watch the taillights. Under normal driving with the headlights on - the left side light stayed bright, as if the brake was on, and the right side was a normal running light brightness.
When the brakes are applied the left side light dims to normal running light brightness and the right side brightens to brake light brightness.
Has anyone ever run into this situation?

The traction control light on the dash is lit and the abs light is now out. Cruise control is working

 

Well...well, turns out it was a bad taillight bulb. A filament had broken off and was intermittently shorting between the other filaments. Think someone else on here had the same problem. Close to the sweetest words ever..."no fault codes detected".

Thanks for all your input....'preciate it.