AC only blows cold when driving

Hello everyone I’m new to the forum. I just purchased a 2010 Tundra 5.7 about 3 days ago. I notice that while I’m driving the AC blows just fine. When I’m sitting idle the AC blows less cold or on the passenger side I would even say it’s a bit warm. Any idea why this is or what it could be?? It’s a basic tundra no 4 wheel drive or anything.

 

Yeah, most vehicles do that.

 

Low on freon or possibly a bad fan, It is not normal.

 

Easy to diagnose. See if your fan is spinning when in park and ac running full blast on Max air. If not, your fan clutch is bad. If it is, you’re low on refrigerant or your compressor is going out. Either way you have a leak in the system if it’s low. Need to find the leak otherwise you’ll have to continuously recharge and it will eventually just fail.

 

Unfortunately as a AC system ages, the compressor seals get weaker. Make sure the freon is correct charge. And get the pressures checked.
I had the same thing going on with my 2010 G37 before I sold it to buy truck stuff. AC was ok driving but in sitting in a parking lot in 95F heat wasn't good. When the car was new it would freeze your ass off going down the road. Freon was proper and had not really leaked down. Unless you got the equipment to mess with an AC you probably are going to have to take to a shop for a diagnosis. If you can't pull a vacuum on one and have set of gauges, you're spinning your wheels.

 

The engine temp would go up and can be checked on the gauge. My estimation is that if the fan isn't spinning at idle, it would puke through the cap.

 

At 1500 rpm the compressor is at full output, idling it is putting out less capacity.

 

is your cabin filter clogged and restricting air-flow?

 

How would I know this? I’m not machanically savy

 

It's behind the large glove box... It's easy to access, and I'm sure there is a Youtube video

 

Welcome.

https://youtu.be/LZ1C2YFF3zE

 

Not true at all. You can sit at idle for a while without a fan. Temp gauge isn’t bible. It’s just a “gauge”.

 

No cooling with a fan at idle instead of taking out heat from the engine? I idle for 20 or 30 minutes easily. Imagine a big ass traffic jam. The fan takes the heat out while you are idling. I dare you down here as it's still mid 90s. Fan goes south and you're toast. The wind takes over later transferring enthalpy.

 

Ok guys I checked out the filter & it’s new!

 

OK, I've read the above possible answers and none of them make any sense. Check the electric cooling fan mounted on the condenser in front of your radiator that should cycle with the a/c on. That has to be the problem. Cause it works when your driving right. Meaning the charge is ok and the cabin filter is letting air through it. So you're not condensing the 134-A before the evaporator coil. That is the electric fans job.

 

Not familiar with a 2010. Yes your answer would make a lot of sense. I am unaware of an auxiliary fan on a rear wheel drive truck. Front wheel yep 2 fans.

 

Most likely your truck doesn't have electric fans. It is a clutch fan that is ran off the rotating engine. When you are idling, the fan is supposed to pull air through radiator, but if your clutch is weak on the fan, it won't be spinning enough to do this. When you are driving, air is being naturally forced through the radiator and a/c condenser. I have a 2011 4.6 Double Cab and I eliminated the clutch fan and installed electric fans (one 16 inch pushing air fan and one 16 inch pulling fan). I live in San Antonio Texas and it is still close to 100 degrees and my a/c is always cold whether I'm stopped at a light or cruising down the highway.
I would also do as someone above stated to make sure the A/C freon level is topped off.

 

If you have a/c you have a electric fan

 

My 2013 Tacoma had this exact problem just out of warranty. It was slightly low on freon. Added freon and checked tightness on compressor lines. One turned a 1/4 turn
Sold truck a year later and still blowing cold at idle.

 

Oh, crap. This argument is over with...@7.62Tundra said "enthalpy".

 

That's a fact jack. Cold is basically a sensory thing.

Ain't no electric fan in my 2015. It's just like the old school days of a clutch that changes speed as it heats up.

 

It's marginally low on refrigerant. Compressor doesn't do as much "compressing" at idle, but uses all the cooling to be comfortable while driving.

If it was a 22RE (tiny little 4 banger, 120hp?), I would to check out the idle-up solenoid, but pretty sure the 5.7L doesn't need one. AC compressor would have little impact on a 5.7L as it cycles on/off.

 

Show me a picture of the front of the radiator and I'll believe you

 

I don't need a pic and don't care if you believe me. I've been working on cars and stuff since I was a kid and still do.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...10258,cooling+system,radiator+fan+clutch,6812

Wife's FWD RX330 blew up a radiator due to the electric fans control going out. There are 2 fans. One that runs with the engine temp and the other that cuts in when the AC is running

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...848,cooling+system,radiator+fan+assembly,2181

 

My 2011 has a/c here in texas and had no fan other than clutch fan running off of waterpump pully. 4.6L v8.

 

I added this fan and all wiring with relay roughly 2 months ago.

 

Notice a difference?

 

I have that exact fan on my air compressors. You have it on wrong. It made to SUCK/PULL air. When you're going down the road it can't be moving any air.

 

That links to the fan clutch that is driven by the 5.7 engine itself.

There is no electric fan from the factory for the radiator NOR the front AC/ATF air cooler.

 

You should able to tell if the AC compressor is cycling on and off sitting at idle. The engine should surge slightly when the compressor clutch engages. It will cycle in and out when you're sitting at idle. I will not stay engages all the time.

If it is cycling in and out, then you know the compressor is trying to work. If it isn't, then you can go from there. I wouldn't add Freon just yet.