Access cab rear door won't open...

I have a 2006 access cab. Going to work tonight, I discovered that my driver side rear door will not open. I pull the handle and nothing. Same for the inside handle. Any ideas as to what kind of problem I'm looking at?

 

It’s not frozen from cold weather and the door gasket sticking I assume?

You can pull the door panel off from the inside to get a better look at the door mechanism I believe.

 

Definitely not frozen.

 

Well at least you have a working door for comparison, so you can remove the plastic plate behind the interior handle and then pop the door panel off to see inside.

 

Chances are, the door rod retention clip broke, and the rod popped out.

But I have seen on here, many years ago, where the rod on someone's AC truck was just whack and had to be shortened to engage the lock. I don't believe there's a child lock for our rear doors.

You'll need to pop off the door card (panel) to check the rod. That may be a bit of a challege with the door not opening. I've never tried to open my rear door at the latch, manually. IIRC, it's only grabbing up top, right?

 

On my 2004, the passenger-side interlock lever on the rear door latch (can't find a picture to get the right name) can be lazy to move when the front door is opened. The rear door won't open unless I wait or pull it out.

 

Update: my door still works. I'm experiencing what @ericryder experienced. The little bugger pictured below suddenly decided to start being lazy and started moving real slow.

 

I’ve had that happen to my 2000. Probably need to pull the door card and lube the mechanism.

 

Try blasting a small shot of really light oil (like 3-in-1) in there and working the lever a few dozen times to de-gummify it.

 

Good deal! I've tried firing PB and a few other things in there... have yet to find the G spot that get's it working better (without taking the door panel off).

 

Torx bit, looks like a T15 or T20, pop out the bolts, slip it out, see if there's a way to access what you need to from the back side.

Surely there's a reason it's not flipping out as expected.

 

Both my 2000 and 2004 ACs had that same issue. Lube to cure the problem. I seem to recall that i ended up removing the door panel to squirt the sweet spot

 

@ericryder, I just looked up the part for my 2006 out of curiosity and I'm going to assume the part is the same number for you b/c Toyota says "2000-2006" which is the full span of years the AC 1st gen Tundra was available.

OEM part is only ~ $28-35 depending where you buy them from Toyota, directly. Here are the part numbers linking directly to Toyota's website if you just want to swap them out for working ones.

Toyota's EPC calls them "LEVER ASSY, ACCESS PANEL LOCK CANCEL"

69770-0C010 (passenger)
69780-0C010 (driver) ​

As always, validate any part numbers I throw at you against your VIN. And if you replace, hold onto the original, consider opening it up, maybe you can be the person who provides a solution for future viewers and saves them the $20-30. Although this part will probably be NLA in the next 3-5 years!

EDIT: Actually, when I click to "shop this dealer" and select my local dealership, part is only $25. So probably cheaper than I mention. Two have it at $28, one at $25, and two others are asking the full $35 MSRP AND charging a pickup fee! (what a buncha assholes!)

 

I've given those Torx head screws a steely glare or two. The only thing that's holding me back, is having removed innocent-looking fasteners like that and heard a thud on the other side, and realized that I've no idea how to get this dang thing back together!

 

I'm not sure there's actually a backing plate for that piece. But if you're really concerned about it, pop the rear door card.

 

My todo list comes with (rose colored) safety glasses for weenie stuff like this