Adding heated mirrors to a 2005-2006 Regular/Access Cab truck that didn't come with them

If your truck came with unheated power mirrors, you can add the heated mirror option without an incredible amount of hassle. The truck is mostly pre-wired, except for the door harness itself. The first thing you will need is the heat switch in the dash. You can source this from a donor truck or new, but new is expensive.

 

Next you will need the heated mirror relay under the hood. I don't have mine yet, but I will grab one up Monday at the dealer. It's less than $20, so no problem there.

 

The third thing you will need is a donor harness. I grabbed the door harness from a 4Runner at the local pick-n-pull for $10. One word of caution is that they wanted $50 for a complete door harness, which was insane. The next time I visited I pulled out another one, cut off a couple of connectors and bought it as a pigtail. The important thing is that you have as many as possible of the female connector wire ends. You will also need half a dozen of the male connector ends with some pigtail length, so gather them up as well. I got mine from the tweeter wires of a couple of random Toyotas and threw them in the bucket with the other items.. This is what is left after I pillaged it for the pieces I needed.

Make sure your donor harness is from a vehicle with power mirrors. You might need a couple of wires from the power mirror position switch and they're a smaller size.

 

The truck with the heated mirrors used a different connector than the truck with unheated power mirrors. We need to buy the connector, so I'll cover it here. This is the page from the FSM wiring diagram showing the connector and wire routing for the heaters.

This is the page showing the pin locations. The heated mirror connector has 6 pins, while the unheated one uses a 3 pin connector.

The all important part number for the connector we need is 90980-11452. We need two of them and they're about $12 from the dealer. The dealer sells the wire pigtails with the male blade ends too, but I got mine from the junkyard.

 

Ok, now we're getting down to business. The door wiring harness connects inside the kick panel with two connectors. On the driver's side they are IB3 and IB4. IB3 is white and IB4 is gray. This is the pin numbering scheme for them.

 

Our first connection is from IB3-6 to R8-2. That wire should be red with a white stripe if you're following the Toyota wiring scheme. As best as I can measure, the length of the wire is at least 32", so you might shoot for 34" or 36" to be sure you have enough. The R8 end has the male connector.

For what its worth, here is a shot of depinning a donor wiring connector from its plug. Youtube was my friend.

 

We have another connector to deal with, which is R10. It is the connector that goes to the power mirror switch. It uses a smaller connector than the rest of the harness and the one I grabbed from the 2008 Yaris at the junkyard had all of the wires I needed. R10 is shown above in the post that shows R8. The existing red wire from R10-5 that plugs into position 3 of the old connector goes to position 1 of our new R8 connector.

 

It got cut off in the image, but R8-3 goes to R10-4 and is pink with a black stripe. It is there already, in position 2 of the old connector. R8-4 is vacant.

 

The next wire is R8-5 (yellow with black stripe).

It is already there in position 1 of the old connector.

 

That brings us to the final connector, which is R8-6, the ground wire. It is white with a black stripe and connects to IB3-1. Every power accessory in the door connects to IB3-1, so splice into the white wire with the black stripe somewhere convenient and call it good.

You will want to check your work, so these are the pin connections for every wire in the drivers door harness.

 

Passenger side works the same way. The old R9-1 (yellow-black) goes to R9-5. The old R9-2 (light green-red) goes to R9-3. The old R9-3 (blue-black) goes to R9-1. The new wires are run from IF3-6 (red-white) to R9-2 and the ground wire (white-black) run from R9-6 and spliced into the wire going to IF3-1.

 

Sorry, did your trick have a connector for the mirror switch? Or that’s what you took from the Yaris? You’d then connect it somehow for switch illumination? Or maybe it doesn’t have any.

I have a spare switch for mirror heat but I’m not sure I have a connector. And I have mirrors with the inputs for heat. No problem for me at all going to any 09011U 6 position connector. Or a 5. The terminals are compatible.

I did already buy a kit though, which has a built in timer so you cycle on for X and then I assume it auto shuts off.

Anyway, excellent write up. A few more pictures might help me visualize.

 

Yes, the wiring for the mirror heat switch is behind the blank where the switch goes. If you pop the little bezel piece off (I took the larger plastic panel under the steering column off first to make that easier, but you probably don't have to), the switch wire connector is nested into the back of the blank. It should have the pink-green, black-yellow and white-black wires. The light on the switch comes on when I push it in, but I don't have the relay yet so the mirrors don't get hot.


My donor harness was kind of hacked up and one of the things missing was the switch on the door panel that moves the power windows and the connector that went with it. The Yaris used the same switch so I was able to graft it in for a repair. The drivers mirror connector was missing too, but at least the passenger side hadn't been messed with.

 

Remind me again which year your truck is? Mine didn’t have one last I looked.

 

Nice write up @dbittle

Was wondering also but then noticed he has it in his signature and have thought it would help if the site requested the info when registering. Easily done in the Personal Details section under "Vehicle One-Line Description:" entry.

2006 Toyota Tundra RCLB, 4.7 w/56000 miles
1991 Toyota Pickup 3.0, 4WD, manual w/ 230,000 miles

As an addition for those following regarding de-pinning as shown above, one needs to disengage the double locking device before attempting to de-pin.

 

Kool, thanks @BubbaW. I missed that.

In many ways I do wish I had an ‘05-06 to work with. TPMS, vvti, 5 speed transmission, some nice convenience features. But I have to work with what I have.

Some great info in here. I will try to get mine up and running with my OEM switch and aftermarket heater module, I think that’s probably my best shot.

Where I am really short is on switch blanks. I have 4 potential OEM switches and only 2 spots for them. If I go mirror heat and fog, I’d need to fabricate something for seat heat. Or if I use the two spots for seat heat switches then I’d need to get fog going from the stalk and mirror heat would have to feed from the switch-pros.

I was contemplating some sort of attempt at a 3D printed trim replacement for the ashtray and cup holder section. I think that could look pretty clean if some right. High degree of difficulty though and if doing switch openings then it probably makes more sense to do rectangles rather than the oval ones and use modern switches.

 

Great info here! I need to update the thread title to say 2005-2006.

 

Might want to consider adding for AC/Standard Cab....Double Cab wiring colors/connectors would be different !