Air conditioning repair?

I know the gist of how air conditioning diagnosis and repair goes, so I wondering if anyone could offer any insight into my busted A/C before I consider tossing money at the issue with a mechanic. I normally don't care as I live near the coast, but am looking to travel extensively out of the truck and the A/C can be an extreme relief from 100+ temps and long drives (most importantly, my girlfriend wants it working).

As is, it doesn't blow cold at all, and one of the knobs to pick airflow doesn't have full rotation. Mechanic said it'll be less than $200 for a Freon swap and a diagnosis if that doesn't fix it. One of those things you don't care about til you NEED it, but on my last trip I needed it and had a few unenjoyable hours in 105 degrees and traffic.

Appreciate any advice or suggestions on the issue. Thanks.

 

Yeah, you want a shop that will use a diagnostic dye that shows up under blacklight when they recharge the system. That way you can go back in 2-3 weeks to see where the leaks are occuring and go from there.

It's not unusual to lose up to 1/2 the refrigerant over 20 years like I did due to normal O-ring deterioration. A simple recharge may put you back in business, but it's what I'd recommend. My price was $140; dealer was $160 but that was 5 years ago.

I'm not sure about the full rotation, but it's not difficult to take the dash panel off to look at what's happening with the switch assembly.

 

I'll ask the question everyone will wonder: Which knob is it, specifically? The mode-change knob, or the fan volume control? I assume mode-change, but don't want to assume, y'know? That specific knob has issues with cable bind, there's a few threads on here explaining how to fix.

When you tap the A/C light to turn it on, does it go solid or flash? If you pop the hood with the engine running, then turn the AC on full blast, what does the compressor/clutch do, stop spinning?

I won't tell you to check the sight window for bubbles while things are running, although I would on mine, because that's a controversial topic on here. But I will say, if the light is staying solid, but you're not getting cold-cold air, you probably have or had a leak, but it didn't leak enough to keep the low pressure switch from stopping engagement. At which point you may have a leak to investigate. You probably do have a leak to investigate anyway, but ... re-charging is a temporary non-environmentally friendly fix.

 

I could go through the whole list and post the pressure chart etc, but if she’s already that expensive and that high maintenance my be time for a trade in…

then just enjoy your truck without the AC and spend that money on some Upgrades!

seriously though, could just be a blend door cable or something simple!

Good luck!

 

Haha I was about to defend my truck, and then I realized you’re talking about my girlfriend. Fortunately, they’re bother keepers.

 

Mode change knob. I’ll give all this a go before I inquire with the mechanic. Last thing I want right now is another thing to get worked on, but it’d be nice to have.

 

Take a look at this video and report back
https://www.google.com/search?q=tro...#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:e38ea1a8,vid:bVYUzp8QQ0M

 

This thread may be helpful for you: https://www.tundras.com/threads/no-a-c-or-heat.109191/

Specifically, replies 12-15 to confirm the cables are correct and not binding or off-kilter. There's some info about sight bubbles and crap there too, but again, that turned out to be pretty controversial IMO.

 

Nick - what year is your truck? My 2000 the air selector and blend doors are mechanical. My Gen2.5 all that stuff is electrically controlled.

 

2005 V8 RCLB

 

Check this thread - https://www.tundras.com/threads/vent-control-binding-solved.58386/

 

That's the thread I was looking for.

 

Just had the Highlander charged and dyed. Had enough in it before to engage the compressor but blew hot air. It was 100 bucks for that service. The fan adjuster knob in it didn’t work, pulled the knob and the nut was loose. Maybe the tundra is the same way?