Air Injection pump stuck P2442 code

I got the dreaded P2442 code
On my 11 5.7 Tundra today. I got it last year in my 2.7 Taco, eazy enough one pump right on top of the exhaust manifold.
Another video I saw says there's two pumps one behind each front wheel and there connected to a unit inside the air intake ?? WTH TOYOTA ???
GUYS what is the easiest cost effective way to get this code gone if I have just one bad pump I'd like to replace just that pump in the meantime as I really don't have the money to change two Unless I absolutely must...I just had foot surgery and been out of work for 3 months. Any tutorial videos or bypass hacks on this forum ?? Help...
Anything else I should know ??

 

Your problem isn’t the pump which is the valve that’s underneath the intake. I would suggest changing both. The valve itself is just a thin Reed valve that when it gets moisture inside it would foul up. For a short term fix you could disassemble the valves and clean them and reassemble the problem will eventually come back though

 

Google AIP delete kit. There a company in here that makes them. That's usually what everyone does.

 

Just to understand you correct..the problem is not the valve in the intake but I should replace both pumps underneath the truck ? Or I should replace all 3 units in the intake and underneath the truck ??

 

Does anyone know the difference between Gen 1 & Gen 2 AIP DELETE my truck is a 2011 5.7....

 

Hit the search box here on the site and research before doing anything. Also watch some Youtube on the subject. Lots of resources are available for you. Hewitt by pass kit is a good solution too. Remember to work any difficult bolts back and forth as you back them out to avoid problems.

 

Call Hewitt Tech, very helpful and knowledgeable staff there.

 

I'm gonna call them Monday.

 

The two pumps (one for each bank) are up in the passenger fender behind the front bumper. The valves are nestled to the rear of the engine behind/below the intake manifold, but they don’t connect to the intake - they connect to the exhaust headers. The system blows air into the exhaust under certain conditions (colder temps maybe?) at startup, then shuts off after a few.

The design of the pumps can allow moisture to get into them, and eventually flood them out make them fail… OR the moisture can with its way to the valves and corrode/gum them up either open or closed. You’ll potentially see different codes for the pumps (each bank) as well as valves stuck closed (which you can reset and keep going for a while) or valves stuck open (computer sees an exhaust leak and you’ll go into limp mode).

If one component is throwing code, it’s best to solve it all at once. But the pumps can be crazy pricey (I haven’t looked them up in years) and the work to replace the valves (it’s one unit) isn’t a small lift either.

The Hewitt kit (back when I installed it on my 2008) will have a plug-in harness, a wire to run to your starter relay (if I recall correctly), and two blank off plates to block the connection between the valves and the exhaust headers. Those blank off plates were a real pain to get installed (the driver’s side especially) - working in a gravel driveway with the wheels still on didn’t help. But still much cheaper and easier than redoing the whole system.

 

Ok thanks understood.

 

Or is it ???? Lol
Q. The "switching valve stuck" mentioned in the P2442 code above in pictures...
Is that valve located inside the bad pump ?? Also anyone know if Bank two is
Driver or Passenger side.
You can tell I'm a oil filter plugs and brake change level pre auto mechanic LOL...
I'm not a mechanic by trade.

 

There is no difference. The only problem is often, the dealer would reflash the ECU to make pumps run at random times instead of only at cold start.

 

The valve is the ones behind the air intake - the valves open to push air into the exhaust stream.

Bank 1 is drivers side, Bank 2 passenger side.
Not that it makes a lot of difference - this is what the unit looks like. Both valves are part one component.


I didn’t watch the full thing, but this gives a run down of the replacement

https://youtu.be/kq7-Qc9bzHk

 

There is a difference between gen 1 & 2 for your year you want Gen 2. You can go to Hewitt web site it will explain the differences. The Gen 1 was more for pre 2007 and only fixes electrical issues the Gen 2 fixes electrical and mechanical issues

 

The valve is separate from the pump. Bank 2 is passenger side

 

Wow now I'm really off base. In case I decide to repair...Does this mean my two pumps are fine behind the fender well ? And this is the stuck open part ^^^^^^ Wich happens to be behind the air intake not inside the upper intake on a 5.7 ??
I haven't found a 5.7 video on YT with my code and repair

 

Looks like Siamese valves one for ea bank ?
By installing the Gen 1 (2011) bypass I can avoid all this work in the video looks like...I hope.

 

Your code shows valve and not pump. Your pumps are fine. If you get the Hewitt 2nd gen kit it will eliminate any codes except for damaged pressure sensors in the valves ( the block off plates will keep that from happening)

 

Yes one valve for each bank.

 

Thank God so by installing the Gen 1 bypass I avoid the extra labor I can leave all parts in place.?

 

You can leave the damaged parts in. You will need the Gen 2 it will show on Hewitt’s web site and when you call the owner he will tell you the same thing. Remember Monday is a holiday

 

Dumb question....Why do I need the Gen 2 and not Gen 1 ?? Bypass kit..anyone ??

 

Your truck is Gen 2..

 

Fa

Fair enough

 

When a pump fails, you get out into limp mode.

When a valve goes bad, you just get a code .

 

Aside from the OEM Toyota air Injection check valve $$$$. I reckon these are maybe best in quality ? Has anyone bought a after market unit and not had issues with it ? I'm thinking sure some are hot garbage but all of them ???. If you have used one in your 5.7 and it's been a good unit or know of one please post or pm me where you found it and cost.