Alignment issues

Greetings everyone! I’m new to the tundra family but not new to Toyota trucks. Still have my 2007 Tacoma in the garage.
I recently picked up a new to me 2017 Crewmax 4x4. Carfax states a minor accident on the front right. I had a PPI done and looked at it myself for over an hour prior to purchasing to see if I could find anything out of wack, but nothing was noticeable.
This week, I went to install some new Cooper A/Ts and got an alignment done for the first time and the shop is telling me that the right front camber and caster is maxed out. Everything else is in spec so tires shouldn’t wear unevenly. My guess is maybe the wreck did tweak something slightly, but wanted to get everyone’s opinion on what I should be looking to replace and what components would typically cause this specific issue. Truck drives straight as an arrow. No pulling or abnormal tire wear after 500 miles.
here’s a copy of the alignment sheet
Thanks in advance for any insight.

 

What happened to driver-side caster during alignment? Why they set it to 4.4?

My truck has the thrust vector ("steer ahead" in your pic) of 0.15 degree from the factory. Still in acceptable range, but I have to correct the front toe a bit for the steering wheel to be at zero. Guess, this is how Toyota makes them.

 

they should be chasing a more neutral camber first, then caster. without being snarky, i'd ask them to spend as much time here as they did on the toe.

 

Im no expert when it comes to alignments but maybe they were trying to line it up to the passenger side to prevent pulling?

 

I might swing by another one of their sister stores. I hate to be “that guy” lol.

 

Worth the read before you go. Tons of info (including targets).

https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/...read-w-links-and-shop-recommendations.112656/

 

Your LCA tabs are probably bent, probably towards driver, which is why you have so much caster. Or if the LCA was not replaced the bushings are fucked. Or both.

Edit: After re-reading I think it's the other way, bent towards passenger, which is why they had to max it out just to get caster even with the driver side.

 

Yes your camber is slightly negative but Tundras always have a problem wearing the outside edge of the tire and I would always set them in slightly negative than the spec. Yes your caster on the right side is more positive than the spec. You normally don't want to see more that a 1/2° of difference between left and right but at least the numbers are going the right direction to offset road crown. If your not pulling then just leave it. The reason why your maxed out is probably that the frame was tweeked slightly and the only way to correct it would to put it on a frame straightener. BTW I'm a just retired Toyota tech and specialized in front end.

 

Amazing insight! I was afraid that it could potentially be something on the frame.

If I were to get a slight 1.5-2” lift on the front with 5100s, would the camber and toe still be within range after another alignment? Or do you think I would have issues with those?

 

When you do a slight lift you always sacrifice caster to get camber in spec if you don't change the upper control arms. The caster will go more negative. In your case it would be hard to say. You would just have to try it and see what the numbers are. Personally I would go to another shop and have the alignment checked again. The reason why I say this is because toe and camber are considered live numbers. What appears on the screen is the actual number. Caster is a "figured out" number. During the alignment the tire is turned out then straight to determine the caster. If the equipment is out of spec you could get a false number.

 

Took it back to the same shop yesterday and I asked them to just check over everything. Bearings, ball joints etc. They redo the alignment, and come back telling me the wheel bearing on the right passenger side is shot.
I get home and jack it up to feel for myself and I’m surprised the wheel hasn’t fallen off yet. The tire moves a good half inch up and down and side to side. It’s definitely shot, but no humming noises. I’m going to replace it this week and take it to another alignment shop. Upset they didn’t discover this the first time around.
Once I replace it, I’m hoping I’ll be back within factory specs.
Thanks everyone for your input.

 

Wow, that's a terrible shop. The first thing you do before an alignment is to check the front end which they obviously didn't do. Usually when the bearing is that bad it throws a ABS code.

 

Wanted to circle back with final results. After replacing the bad wheel bearing (had a tough time finding an oe Koyo bearing) and getting it aligned at a different shop, all is within spec now. Thanks for everyones insight on this.

 

Nice, I like those camber numbers.

 

I've had a humming for a couple weeks. Been driving me crazy trying to find it. I have no play in the wheels at all. Jack it up and can't spin the wheels fast enough to get it to start doing it. Everything looks good. No torn or leaking boots. Nothing loose. Hum starts around 20 MPH and increases/decreases with speed.

Truck drives straight as an arrow also. No pulling at all.

Finally got it on an empty road last night so I could take it to 60 and swerve back and forth. Swerve left and it becomes more pronounced and gets the slightest little vibration in the steering wheel. Swerve right and it goes away.

So I'm thinking right front wheel bearing.

Thoughts or opinions?

 

Well today I changed my front rotors. While I was at it I spun the hub with the rotor off. The right one is definetly making the noise. Left is no problem. Guess I'll take a wheel bearing for 149.00 Alec.

 

How much negative camber would you shoot for? I have about 88k on my truck and on the 4th set of tires. I have had 3 alignments done and always wear out the outside of the tires. I just recently installed a 2 inch lift and I’m about to get another alignment. I am going to bring in some specs for them this time and I’m trying to get an idea of how much negative camber to ask for. They have always set the camber to +0.1 to +0.2. Thanks for any input

 

As close to zero camber as possible while still maintaining the stock caster spec.