All cylinders misfiring

2011 XPS Tundra. Every time i start it up after sitting overnight all cylinders misfire, I let it run in limp mode for a few minutes, clear the errors with my scanner, restart and all is well. Has been happening for about 5 months. 2 local trusted shops kept it overnight for a few days and they can't find the cause. mentioned taking to the dealer for ECU replacement?

Anyone seen this?

 

I use to get an intermittent misfire with cyl 8, so I took that coil and swapped it with cyl 3. Misfire on 8 continued, turned out it was a broken ground on the battery terminal. All 8 though may be a wiring issue, as in a rodent feasting on it, or you may have a coolant leak in the valley, or possibly the cam tower leak and it's pretty bad in the spark plug tubes. Best way to start is the easy way check wiring and follow along with a mirror, check all spark plugs and coils, if they're bathing in oil, then your issue is there, if it's not, then consider borrowing a bore scope, or buy one from Harbor freight and return it once you're done with it, this is to check in the intake manifold..

 

From what I can tell you have a wiring issue.

 

@blackdemon_tt will the coolant leak in the valley cause cylinders to misfire? My local shop is having a hard time diagnosing my problem. Like others on the forum, started with cylinder 8 and now all cylinders and losing coolant with no visible leak. Passed the block test twice and bore scoped a couple cylinders and no sign of head gasket…stumped.

 

It would be the only logical way for losing coolant and impacting all cylinders. Unless the IACV was cleaned and the gasket was not replaced , then the coolant is leaking in through there and getting through all the cylinders. I did this with my Celica and was losing coolant and misfiring all 4 cylinders. According to State Farm all 8 cylinders

Here is a vid for reference.

https://youtu.be/PnUL0GR6mfs

 

@blackdemon_tt thanks for the video, I’ll know next week if that’s my cause for coolant loss when the shop inspects. What is the IACV? Are you referring to an idle control valve? I don’t think the 5.7 liter has that…pretty sure that’s only on the first Gen Tundras and Sequoia 4.7’s.

 

I'm pretty sure they all have one since it keeps the throttle body from freezing. I'm sure their is anthread addresing it as well.

 

Update...I had two separate problems. My misfire issues were being caused by bad fuel injectors. And my coolant leak was as the video above explains, coolant leak in the valley of the motor underneath the intake.

 

Saga continues…started throwing codes again with a new one P0420…replacing the cat on the drivers side.

 

Misfires likely caused, or contributed to, killing your cat.

 

@blackdemon_tt It is looking like I have a head gasket leaking on my 2007 DCLB with 385K miles. I'm having a conversation on another thread on this forum ("2007 random cylinder misfire") but looking thru other forums and see you pop up frequently on the subject.

I'm trying to make sure I don't waste time and $$ on all of this. So I've been having a barely noticable "chug" for about ten seconds on cold and warm starts for the last month or so. It's graduated to full on dead cylinder for several seconds but eventually came in after a few minutes with the dash lights soon after flashing. I don't have a code reader so I disconnected the negative battery terminal for several minutes and reconnected to clear the computer. This cleared the code, engine ran fine soon after start up but still noticing the chug at first. The second time it happened, I had O'Rieley check the code and it was misfire on 2 only. I changed the plugs which were due and figured if it happened again, I'd swap coils on 2 & 4. It did happen about a week later after returning from from a 300 mile round trip pulling a trailer. The trip was fine but after dropping the trailer and letting the truck sit for two hours, it had a dead cylinder that did not come back in. Still the same next morning so I pulled the negative battery terminal, swapped 2&4 coils and it ran fine for the three hour drive to Cincinnati.

Next day, same thing, so this morning I pulled the truck in the shop, let it sit all day and then pulled the #2 plug. Looking down the SP tube, I could clearly see antifreeze on top of the piston. Just to confirm, I put a white paper towel in the tube, disconnected all coils and rolled the engine. The towel was doused with antifreeze. My questions are could the coolant leak into the combustion chamber be ONLY from the head gasket or cracked head or could there be another point of entry?

I'm leaning on trying to replace the head gaskets on both sides but I don't want to miss some other culprit I'm not aware of. Assuming to replace the head gaskets, I'll shoot for replacing every O ring and gasket related to the tear down, but what else do you look for or do beside replacing the gaskets and seals? I have the OEM 2007 Tundra Repair Manuals from Toyota, so using them as a guide, I should be able to do the procedure correctly. I just don't want to miss something that you or others might be privy to.

Thank you in advance for the help!!!

 

If you can swing by Harbor freight and grab one of those bore cameras. I think they're $40 in SoCal, maybe cheaper elsewhere and probe that cylinder. Even probw it below the intake manifold and see if you have any entry points there. Ruling out the easy stuff may lead you to a head gasket failure. Maybe try swapping that coil to cylinder 1 and see if that misfire is really traveling with the coil, because it sounds like a coil issue, with the exception of the coolan in the cylinder. Have you changed the oil?? Another good source is blackstone get an oil sample from the oil currently in the engine and get it analyzed, should answer your question more thoroughly.

 

@blackdemon_tt Undoubtedly the head has to come off since there is without doubt a coolant leak into the cylinder. I'm just trying to make sure it isn't a waste of time replacing the head gaskets. From what I've read elsewhere, it seems that it should be a worthwhile repair provided it is a compromised gasket only and nothing else. Others have said to check the head for warpage and if it's good, do nothing to the head, no milling. Just clean it and the deck squeaky clean and reassemble.

 

100% agree... I would get it checked out since it may still be slightly warped due to the heating and cooling cycle, but nothing worse than it being slightly off and have the same issue all over again after 500 miles. Best of luck.

 

That's a lot of miles...but if you are doling the work yourself, especially the tearing down, you should be able to visually inspect the block and you'll be sending the cylinder heads to a machine shop so if there are cracks, you'll know. But at 385k, you are definitely at the end of it's life regardless it seems.

 

ViktorG said the same thing basically. But it doesn't use oil at all and I've always kept up with oil changes at 7,500 miles using Castrol full synthetic and Lucas synthetic oil additive. I dunno. I'd buy another truck before buying a used engine I think and part mine out. Too much stuff I'd be taking off of it to sell it outright - Seqioia transfer case, 38 gallon fuel tank, air bags and compressor, stereo. If I bought another truck, it'd be a Tundra 2013 or older Crewmax with lower miles, swap everything into it and probably wind up doing something dumb like grafting in the long bed into the Crewmax... At either rate, no more romping on the sand dunes. Old dogs stay on the porch!