ALTERNATOR--need to upgrade OEM

Hello guys, my OEM alternator is in its last lap. I want to upgrade to a 240amp high output. Any suggestions which one to get? where? the current one in my '06 Tundra Limited is 130amp

 

I was looking at Denso alternators on rockauto.

 

I run a Mean Green 300amp on my Tacoma with zero complaints. It keeps dual optimas charged even while running compressor, electric fans, and at one point about 10 7" Halogen Hella lights.

 

Whoa! that one big alt! where di you get it at?? how much? how long ago? what's the lead time? I am also planning on going with a dual batt system. so definitely will need that bigger alt.

 

Does Denso make high output alts? didn't know that! tell me more about it please.

 

I found this pretty expensive

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/products/13994-370-xp-toyota-tundra-2004-4-7l-v8-2uz-fe

 

Its been a decade at least. The higher output (standard was like 240?) did require special order build time but wasnt more than a week or so way back then.

https://mean-green.com/

 

Looked into a new alternator after reading some threads landed on DENSO part #2101065 130 Amp Reman from RockAuto $205 with the core charge for the 2006 double cab. It’s an OEM equivalent. They offer higher outputs that are for the sequoia but they are not direct bolt on and require some fab.

stock tundra is 100 amps I believe

 

The cheap OEM upgrade is a sequoia 150 amp alt. Unless your running crazy sound systems or a never ending winch, a 150 amp alt is likely all you’ll ever need

 

Few guys on ebay have descent uograded alternators. DB electric, I think! I installed one of theirs about 6 years ago. Zero issues.

 

More info in case it helps, saved this link a while back: https://www.tundras.com/threads/04-sequoia’s-150-amp-alternator-swap-on-a-00-tundra-the-3-big-upgrades.67222/

I haven't re-read so I'm going from memory, 150a from sequoia is a direct, no drill bolt-up, but harness difference for the earlier 00-02 models, I can't remember what else.

 

I believe it was 04 and up direct bolt on and if you have the tow package which came with a 130amp
I'm I correct? Anything before you had to replace wire gauge

 

yea 00-02 need the connector swapped (just unpin and re pin) and people cut the 3rd ear off, BUT if you replace the bolt with the stud like 03-06 then it is full bolt on

 

Thanks everyone for the help/input

 

Yes, tow package, which I have. I got the 130amp. I am going to replace the BIG3 also with some heavier gauge just to be sure I don't ever start a fire, specially when I am hunting out in the boonies. I've found some good options online but the businesses do not reply at all, maybe they're out of buzz, who knows. I'll find one eventually. In the meantime I am almost done gathering everything i'll need to go with the two batt system.

 

Keep us posted on what you do would be interesting to see if I can use that setup for a power inverter

 

As to what the big 3 will provide. Not much. The stock charge wire is 64” long and 4 gauge. Enough for 150 amp. Upgrade the ground wire and it should be sufficient unless you really do go with ultra High output

 

So you think a 150amp will do the trick? all i'll ever add once the new alt it's in place will be: 1.- dual batt system 2.- a 12V fridge 3.- a winch, which will most likely I'll only use once every few years, if at all. The winch will be nothing but an insurance thing if I ever needed while hunting on my own. Will the sequioa's bolt right on with no mods of any kind?

 

That sounds reasonable...

 

Will definitely do. I am planning on having a bigger inverter too, pure sine maybe? I currently have a 800W inverter which I use often while on the road to charge batts for my radios, etc. I want to be able to use the inverter while truck is off, hence the reason for the 2nd batt system

 

thanks!! what great write up. It's going to help with my up coming project for sure. Never stop learning good stuff here.

 

I’d rekon you’ll be fine. Nothing super taxing there. Just setup a house battery and your starting battery. The house battery will always charge when the trucks running. The starting battery will basically handle everything stock side. A battery controller can let you wire up a solar panel to the house battery as well so you can charge will not running the truck.




But for the fridge DO a deep cycle battery

 

That's the only reason I don't have one because don't really want to have the truck running a long time for power.

 

Great points. I have my eye on an excellent interstate deep cycle batt. I have bought a Blue Sea ML-ACR 7622 12VDC to control both batts. Did lots of research and this one seems to be the best to suit my needs. Not too pricey and pretty solid controller. I'll be able to control it from inside the cab, which is what I wanted. Might some day consider adding solar, but for now I'll be ok without it.

 

Well damn, 392k miles, thats all my 05 Tundra 4.7 Alternator reached, what a pos!.....
I let my bearing squeal like a pig all yr trying to reach 400k but she locked up tighter than a toads bootay & smoked my belt into yesterday. Wait' did I just say my belt broke & just told everyone I'm short?
Q) Is alt # 210-1099 130 amp from a 2005 4.7 LC a direct replacement on a 2005 4.7 Tundra? Any real differences?
Yard about 1/2 hr drive has one pretty cheap? I can't find a cross fitment on it, in fact I see very few cross refs for Toy Alts & Starters?

Q2) Is there a fitment list for known Alts that work on this or any website? Better yet any common parts cross ref charts around? Any assistance here will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Fwiw- I had Triple Bypass last yr & till paying that lil 20% deductible the nice ins corps leave us with? Its only this much $$$$$.xx though...lol
Doc says, great news man, we can save all yer dumb arses these days, now the bad news is you & your entire family will starve to death once Im done.
Thanks again all....
..lol

 

When I check the parts diagrams and look at the parts number on the tundra v the land cruiser, the part numbers are different. I wouldn't count on them matching up...

I put an alternator (Duralast) on my truck, was a rebuilt factory unit. Seems to be doing fine, but it's only been on there 8 months. As long as the bearings and brushes in it are decent, should be an OK option.

In the past, I've also bought new alternator bearings and brushes and swapped them out myself. Might be an option for you.

 

If you have tow package, your truck should have the 130A. Even if you don't, 130A is plug and play, but the part number you gave is wrong for Tundra/Sequoia.

The 130A p/n is 210-1065 --- DO NOT buy this part on Amazon or eBay.
The 210-1099 p/n you provided is for other Toyota vehicles.

Sequoia 150A mounts right up, but you should update some things (supply wire, fuse).
The 150A p/n is 210-1066 --- DO NOT buy this part on Amazon or eBay.

Comparison on 100A vs. 130A with pictures and part numbers: https://www.tundras.com/threads/ran...a-vs-100a-denso-alternator-comparison.101975/

More info here on 150A upgrade: https://www.tundras.com/threads/04-sequoia’s-150-amp-alternator-swap-on-a-00-tundra-the-3-big-upgrades.67222/

Anyone from the future reading this, if you don't have an '03+, and/or your truck doesn't have the correct connector on back of the alternator (check my last link there), anything over 100A requires a re-pin. 2004, 2005, 2006 (and maybe 2003), all info I just types is correct for your truck.

 

Thanks, guess Ill pass on it unless I learn more?
True' these Alts are easy enough to swap low grades back out often. I certainly wouldn't suggest their Starter on a 4.7 though. Especially those paying labor to install one. Different animal...Thanks

 

Thanks everyone, fwiw my trucks an AC with Tow & TRD Off Rd package(s) & yes old alt is 130 amp.
It more than did its job with nearly 400k miles & why I asked if the used 210-1099 LC/4Runner 130 amp unit near me fit Tundra. I sold my 07 4Runner in 2018 or Id popped its hood & compare alts. We sure miss that lil' truck.
Still curious, so if I find time I may go see what differs between these & post findings for future members if I go, been crazy here. May fit with a small hack, the 210-1099 fits 2005 LC/4Runners 4.7 but may be differences between Japanese & USA designs causing fitment conflict. Different #s do suggest their not direct swaps?

Oh no doubt' some Ebay/Amazon sellers are some real dandy's alright. Just fogetabout' their parts finder apps, what a joke! Hopefully new AI stops that bs soon.
Ebay/Paypal still makes their scammers refund at least, Amazon just dont care. In 27yrs I only lost money one time on Ebay. Got my refund but lost $12 return shipping cost over a Infiniti dash part I received cracked. Amazon/3rd party seller still owes my boy $130 over a bad bike carb listing.
Ill get a reman Denso!
Big thanks for all the help/info folks.

 

If it were me, I'd buy this:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11195357&cc=0&pt=2412&jsn=548