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Aluminum oil filter housing question

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by CaptainGrumpus, Jun 21, 2020.

  1. Jun 21, 2020 at 11:35 AM
    #1
    CaptainGrumpus

    CaptainGrumpus [OP] The Mailman

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    Just did my first oil change and I swapped the plastic housing for the OEM Aluminum housing. When I was installing the filter and housing, I turned as far as it would go. I’m not the strongest person so I decided to put the torque wrench on it to make sure it was at 18ft/lbs. I could not get it to budge. It’s there a stop on the aluminum housing that won’t let it thread any further than where I have it? I drove it around for 10 mins and then checked for leaks and I couldn’t see any but the oil is almost clear so it’s tough to tell.
    Paranoia gets the best of me so I hope I’m just overthinking it.

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Jun 21, 2020 at 11:43 AM
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    Bob_Wiley

    Bob_Wiley I feel good, I feel great, I feel wonderful...

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    I don’t believe there’s any stop on the aluminum housing. You really don’t need to crank on it that much, you should be fine. As long as the o-ring on the housing is seated correctly, you shouldn’t see any leaks.
     
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  3. Jun 21, 2020 at 11:46 AM
    #3
    CaptainGrumpus

    CaptainGrumpus [OP] The Mailman

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    First time I installed it, I put the o-ring in the wrong spot and chewed it up. Thankfully, the old one only had 2k miles on it and looked perfect so I used that one in the right location and tightened it down.
    Maybe I’m just over thinking it because it’s on there tight and felt fine threading on and the oring seating.
     
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  4. Jun 21, 2020 at 4:16 PM
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    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Actually, the oil filter cap does "bottom out" on the oil filter bracket (See diagram). Where the diagram shows "No Gap" is where it bottoms out. Additional torque past 18 ft-lbs is just putting additional stress on the threads. But, given how much torque is applied by oil change gorillas using impact wrenches, I don't think you need to worry about over-tightening. If it'll make you feel better, loosen the cap a quarter turn, and re-torque to 18 ft-lbf. Sealing of the filter cap is not dependent on torque...it shouldn't leak until the o-ring physically clears the bore.

    The Toyota filters have a diagram on the side of the box that shows how to install the o-ring, so getting the o-ring in the wrong position must be a common issue. Most of us are accustomed to o-rings that "face seal" against another surface. The Toyota design seals on the oil filter bracket bore like a hydraulic cylinder seal.

    Oil Filter Cap.jpg
     
  5. Jun 21, 2020 at 4:58 PM
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    Bob_Wiley

    Bob_Wiley I feel good, I feel great, I feel wonderful...

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    I stand corrected, good info!
     
  6. Jun 21, 2020 at 5:32 PM
    #6
    CaptainGrumpus

    CaptainGrumpus [OP] The Mailman

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    Thank you sir for the info. I bought an Amsoil filter for it, along with the oil, and there was no info on the box about the gasket. When I took the old housing off, I told myself to remember where the gasket goes but I forgot, of course, so I put it in the wrong place.

    No leaks to speak of at the moment so I think I might be good. Thanks again for the info. I’ll check the dipstick tomorrow and make sure it’s still at level.

    I do wish that I added a Fumoto valve but I didn’t. Next oil change, I’ll definitely put one on. I missed the oil drain pan when I pulled the bolt and made a mess. The Fumoto should fix that issue from happening again.
     
    WILLINH and Bob_Wiley like this.

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