Aluminum Radiator in 1st gen?

I was wondering if anyone has swapped to an aluminum radiator into a 1st gen tundra 4.7. My outlet tube is starting to leak and I’m considering replacing/upgrading it so that this won’t happen again and keep the engine cool. I know there are a couple brands who make them. I’m not looking to do large modifications to get it to fit I want an one fit if possible. Any information or opinions would be great appreciated.

 

@des2mtn

 

You're not showing what cab type you have in your truck info, and didn't include it in your thread. This is incredibly critical information to give you advice. Double cab trucks use different radiator size than access/regular cab trucks, which share the same radiator. Some vendors only make for DC or AC/RC! Please go into your profile and designate "AC", "RC" or "DC" for your cab.

Some threads for you to read:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/aluminum-radiator-suggestions-advise.96997/#post-2465488 (scroll up from here, but you need to see this from resident toyo mech)

https://www.tundras.com/threads/question-for-the-supercharged-guys.75753/

https://www.tundras.com/threads/upgraded-trans-cooler.48516/page-2#post-1821598

Just FYI, I see you think aluminum is going to be bulletproof. More than once we've seen aluminum radiator fails, they'll start leaking in a way that can't be repaired. One member on the forum is currently on their (3rd?) aluminum radiator IIRC.

OEM Denso has lasted this long ... you may want to strongly consider it. RockAuto has a 100% success rate getting them to members w/o damage. Forum members get 5% off on all purchases.

 

Sorry I just updated that info. I’m not dead set on an aluminum radiator because I don’t know a ton about them. In my mind I’m fixing the problem and beefing the system up at the same time. I can’t see why more airflow would be a bad thing. My truck does lots of idling, I’m not sure if a radiator would even help that. This is kind of why I’m asking because I’m not sure

 

Aluminum is aluminum. There's no plastic bits to get in the way, and the entire radiator itself is a big heatsink to dissipate heat. The inherent weak link is determined by how the coolant paths are joined, and how solid that link is. The failures you'll usually see are where the coolant tubes (I forget the name) join the upper/lower caps. Aluminum radiators aren't always the same thickness or height, so fitment when you go to button things back up isn't always possible and/or nice looking. Depends!

I prefer to use all-aluminum for LS-swaps, but I'm also usually beefing up internals at the same time. But you're already having to customize things. When I need to redo the radiator in my truck, I'll be going with another Denso model, from RockAuto.

I wish I could remember who it was that had their all-aluminum leaking. I don't remember if it was Koyo, CSF or Mishimoto. With you having a DC, I think any of those three will fit your truck if you're going that route.

 

Not an expert, but I have a 2000 V8AC, and the original Denso lasted 21 years and 235K miles. Replaced with same.

 

I'm still on the original radiator on my 2001. I will replace it with OEM, when it needs one.

 

I haven't seen proof that the aluminum rads are worth the additional cost. At least one member bought one, only for it to develop a leak. I'm sure they perform better but I'll go with a $200 Denso replacement when I'm do(again).

 

I'm rocking a Mishimoto, and it has yet to fail me in any way. Only downside is that it is almost an inch thicker than stock, so it'll push your fan shroud into your upper rad hose without any adjustment. It did help cooling, but I would honestly say its probably unnecessary for anybody not pushing for a ton of power. Just for reference, it dropped coolant temps from 195* to 186* through a full 1/4 mile pull.

 

im running a custom radiator from radiator supply house out of Oregon. $$ but made VERY well.. no more leaky plastic tanks, the internal transmission cooler they put in it also seems to keep the trans WAY cooler than stock. (if i had to guess its a proper cooler and not a dinky one like stock.)

i've never seen over 184 degrees on multiple 200+ mile 6500-7k lb towing trips.. (buying more trucks.)

 

Sirfives PSA of the day: always keep an eye on your coolant temp gauge. When the radiator tank cracked in moms sequoia it took less than half an hour in traffic to pump all the water out and kill the engine, but that was houston traffic on a very hot & humid day. (Dunno how they missed it, i wasnt there, and i still heckle dad about it)

 

This topic comes up from time to time. I'm of the opinion that the radiator should be replaced preemptively at 10-15 years. At $200 it's cheap insurance.
I had a radiator fail in my last 4Runner causing a pink milkshake (mixing of collant and ATF in both the cooling system and the transmission). Because the failure happens inside the radiator, there's no way to inspect it to see if it's close to failing. You won't know it fails until it's too late and the the contamination has already happened.

Here's what a failed heat exchanger looks like.

 

And I'm of the opposite opinion I guess, don't replace parts that don't need it. When it needs replacement or repair, that's when I do it. Working on cars for me is right up there with making the bed or vacuuming. Just good maintenance and repair as necessary. This philosophy has served me well through 20 plus cages and at least 40 motorcycles over the years. Whatever lets you sleep at night I guess.

 

Same thing happened with my buddy's GX470. His wife was driving, it overheated, and KO'd the engine. That's the best theory we could come up with. He had done very little preventative maintenance aside from the timing belt. Your 30 minute number is scary because there is no way I check the temp gauge every 30 minutes.

 

I've also been riding and working on motos for a while -- about 35 years. To be honest, I'm mostly in your camp when it comes to maintenance. But there are certain maintenance items that don't fit that formula. A timing belt would be one -- you replace it at a given interval because the consequences of failure are too great. To me, the radiator falls into this category. I know if I replace it every 10-15 years I don't have to worry about the trans cooler failing. You're replacing your coolant every 60K, right? Once the coolant is drained, the job is half done.
Like you say though, whatever lets you sleep at night.

 

I replaced the original radiator with another denso when the timing belt and water pump was done. Since the system was drained anyway I saw no reason not to change everything associated.

 

DC radiators are slightly larger than AC and RC, so is the fan shroud.

I personally went with the CSF 7030 and I've been pleased. No leaks.

 

I have a Mishimoto. Temps are great. Never had the coolant temp go over 195, even at wide open throttle towing 7,000lbs up a hill. First radiator sprung a leak in the cooling tubes and had to get a new one under warranty. Unfortunately, mishimoto makes you pay for shipping, so the replacement still cost me $80.

 

It's this reason why I have never been a fan of radiators with built in transcoolers. I'm a fan of keeping the systems separate. Then again you have to keep in mind how the cars were designed to warm up, etc.