Amp power wire size and installing 2 amps.

I'm ditching my Apline PDX V9 5 channel amp, the 500 watt sub channel isn't pushing my twin 10" Stealthbox at all.
I'm installing a JL Audio JX1000/1 mono and JX400/4D 4 channel amps.
Both amps require a 4 ga line according to instructions.
I have 1 4ga line already run.

Debating on just running another 4 ga line from the 1 in 2 out fuse distribution block next to the battery and having 1 line for each amp.
That block has 0ga to the battery.
Or just running a 0 ga from the under hood block and putting a distribution block closer to the amps to run 4ga to each.



Any input appreciated.
Thanks...

 

I always run 0 gauge from the battery to my amp racks Distribution block. From there I can split up the 4 gauge feeds to my high and low amp. 0 gauge is a little more expensive than 4. But aesthetically it’s a much cleaner install and your setup will never max out what the 0 gauge can supply. It’s better to have more headroom then not enough.

 

Thank you ..
I think that is what I'll do.
I can't figure out if the 4ga I have is copper-clad aluminum cable (CCA) so I was going to replace it.
I had a shop run the line years ago.

You have a recommendation on what wire to use?
I usually use KnuKonceptz..
Have a favorite on the dist blocks?

I appreciate your help..

 

knukonceptz is good. I’ve personally been using a Kicker distribution block for damn near 10 years now. Any quality block will do the same thing haha.

I have a sundown saz1000 and an alpine pdx4 off the single 0 gauge wire. So no shortage of power.

 

This is a good reference chart I like to use.

 

Definitely run 0 to a distribution block in the rear. Cleaner, and you’ll have more options in the long run.

SKAR audio has OFC for a very reasonably priced kit. I used them for my wiring and my sub amp and i am pleased.

 

Home depot/Lowes typically carries welding grade wire. It was much cheaper than any of the car audio branded ones last I checked. Less than half if I remember correctly.

Car audio power wire is basically just welding wire with a few differences in the insulation and some car audio brands can have a higher thread count. Higher thread count is the main factor in its flexibility, but welders wire is already very flexible.

If I was you, I would leave the 4 gauge from the battery and tie it directly to your 4 channel amp. Then run a new 0 gauge for you sub amp.

Its probably overkill, but if there's a place that can never be overkill, its your electrical.

And if you haven't already, do your big three upgrade too.

 

X2 for welding wire

Especially if u only need the run of 0 gauge

 

I looked at Lowes years ago and found just stiff home electrical wire.
I'll go back up there and look for welding grade.

I goggled the big three upgrade.
I'll look into that,,

I think the 4 ga I have is copper-clad aluminum cable (CCA), so I want to replace it.
It looks like copper strands, but the cut end looks silver and not copper.





Both amps will be under the passenger's seat.
I should have put that in the OP.

Thank you all for your input.

 

Both of those amps are class D
The single 4gauge will be plenty of copper for both amps under the seats.

They are not power hungry amps so you won't need to bump up the gauge. If they were BOTH 80-100a inputs and class ab, then you would, but they are not.
A 40a and an 80a, class D is fine with a single 4g wire under 20 feet and a single 100a fuse at the battery is all you need. You will never be using the full current available, nor should you worry about it.

Look at the chart @bensky posted for the Coast guard. That will be beyond whatever you want to reference for your truck.

 

Stinger 6000 4 guage ofc can handle up to 1700 Watts. 0 guage will all depends on your future upgrades. If you add a secondary battery and can keep the cables short, you'll be fine with 4 guage ofc. You only need 4 guage to be able to charge the secondary battery with an isolator relay.

That's definitely CCA. On audio type cables, usually if it doesn't advertise OFC on the jacket, it's most likely CCA. I had the 4 guage knukoncept basik before upgrading from a 500w amp to 1000 RMS and i recently replaced it with the stinger Only which is only $60 from Sonic Electronics without rca. I do notice the competitors have very inconsistent jacket thickness and the savings are pocket change for compromising quality. If you go with them, be sure to protect the whole run with wire loom.

Replacing a current cable with a new one is very easy. Just tape the end together with about 6 inch overlap on each cable and slowly pull it through the firewall.

 

Yeah, that's CCA. But CCA isnt necessarily bad. The problem with CCA is when ppl are buying their wire according to copper standards and the retailer doesn't inform them that there is a difference in the appropriate size needed compared to ofc vs CCA.

Basically if you size the CCA accordingly compared to ofc, it will work safely.

You current wire would be fine for your 4 channel, but for your sub amp I wouldn't rum anything less than 4awg ofc. That is unless its a short run. Like from a distribution block. Then its not a big deal.

I still stand by my first recommendation if your budget allows. That said, as long as you don't go below the manufacturer's minimum required gauge you'll be fine.

Doing a run of at least 2awg from the battery to a distribution block by the amps, and then use your CCA to connect to your amps would be a good option also.

 

i have a jl jd 400/4 and a jl jd 1000/1 mono class d amp. im running 0 gauge from my battery to the back seat where i have an audio distribution block. then i will have the two amps back there also. running the 0 gauge on the drivers side and the speaker info wire on the passenger side. here is my block btw.

$22 Camper Car Audio Fuse Block ANL Holder Ground Fused Distribution Blocks 0GA / 4GA Wire in 4Gauge/8 Gauge Wire Out 4 Way Fuse Box 30A 60A 80Amp Mini ANL Fuses

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SCQJNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
do i do 0 gauge from the block to the amps or 4?

 

Whatever your amp recommends and ultimately will accept or fit.

 

Since this was my thread I never updated it, I'll update it.
I ended up pulling that 4ga CCA out and replacing with with 0ga copper.
I'm only running an Alpine PDX V9 now, but I may end up running a 4 channel and a bigger mono amp for the sub.

Does it sound any different?
No.
Do I like the way it looks and the possibilities for expansion?
Yes.
Should I have used copper instead of CCA in the first place?
Yes.

I also replaced the battery ground to chassis with 0ga.

 

You forgot...
Do I feel better knowing that might truck won't catch on fire at full tilt.
HELL YEAH!

I do have a question for you. Does your battery gauge jump up and down between 14v-12v when you have it cranked? Mine does but I installed a digital gauge to the cigarette lighter and it never goes below 12v so I just ignored it.

 

It shouldn't. You still running the factory battery?

 

Yes

Also I have the SR model with the smaller alternator. I think 90 or 100 amps.

 

get a northstar, odyssey, xspower or optima and a capacitor, see if that fixes it.....if not, bigger alternator time

 

thank you that picture helps me a lot understanding where i will put my block. Is that under the passenger seat? isnt there a vent right there?

 

That too, I don't worry about the CCA melting.
I've never had an issue with voltage changes.
Maybe a capacitor might help with that.

Keep in mind I don't do too much cranking of the system.
I rarely turn it up to the halfway point of volume.

I tried an X2Power AGM battery but it was nothing but a pain in my ass.
It died on me twice in 6 months.
Long story, in the end I think I got a lemon and Batteries Plus wanted me to jump through hoops to replace it.
I traded it on for a core charge for an Interstate and told Batteries + to get ****ed.

But in the process of trying to make the X2 work for me, I bought a voltage amp booster and an ammeter like you have to get an accurate reading.
Although it sucked having to look at the ammeter several times a day to make sure my X2 was going to start the truck in the morning.
Twice it didn't.

I bought a MK2 Micro blade 5A booster.
https://www.hkbelect.com/product/436-mk2-micro-blade-5a-electronic-fuse-version-2014/
My voltage with the engine running is now a constant 14volts, it used to be 13.4 before the booster.
So I ditched the X2power but kept the booster.

 

I like the sound of that. A constant voltage is good. Where exactly does that booster plug into? And is it specifically for the stock alternator, because I just had a 290 amp high output alternator installed.

 

If you're running less than 150 amps then 2 gauge should be fine. Keep in mind, that's 150 amps if you ran straight test tones at full volume on all your amps. That will never happen. Musically, a 400 watt and 1000 watt amp will not draw close to that.

The shop that installed my stereo used 0 gauge. I didn't find out until later, so I feel I was overcharged and the logistics of running 0 gauge vs 2 gauge is a lot different. That said, if you have room to run it and you want to pay the premium then I guess it's fine.

Upgrading alternators, batteries and the wiring between those is the most important thing you can do to prevent voltage sags.

I run 2 JL HD 600/4's and a 750/1. 160 amps total.

 

Yes, that's why I built a small platform to clear the vent. You can buy one premade from metal off the taco tunes website if you don't want to make your own.

 

I have 2 type s 10s hooked up to that XR-1000.1 in a q power ported box fireing up, port firing towards the back wall of the double cab and it hits but I'm wanting it to hit to the point where you can't understand what the passenger is saying or you're having a hard time swallowing your own saliva type of hit. I think the tundra needs at least 2000 watts RMS or a better box. My setup is a very good back massager but I want that hard hitting bass that you feel it in your chest, not just on your backside. When you can't use the side view mirror hit.

What do you guys think? How do you feel with your setup?

 

You're going to need more than 10's if that's the kind of bass you want.

 

10s can definitely do it but not those 10s and not any under seat box. You're gonna want something like a Sundown SA series or better in a big box with lots of power. The best configuration for an under seat box that would really bump would be with a few monster 6.5s or 8s like the Soundqubed HDS2s or Savard Hi-Qs.

 

Since you quoted my 2 year old thread and I'm not sure who are directing your comment to.......................

I ended up running 0 ga to my Alpine PDX V9..
Just in case I wanted to change the current setup.



I have a twin 10" JL Audio Stealthbox with two 10TW3-D8 Subwoofers that I hated for 4 years.
SB-T-TUNDB3/10TW3/BK - Car Audio - Stealthbox® - Toyota - JL Audio

After finally researching it, and taking it apart, that box was factory wired in series and that is why it sounded like sh!t.
Rewired it in parallel, bought the box down to 1.9 ohms, and it now sounds perfect with 525 RMS watts...

 

That was directed to bamelanc's response to 3rdGenTundraDC's post. For some reason quote wasn't working. But glad to hear your setup is working well. I'm looking to get a tech12volts under seat ported box with two 10 TW3s, but for now I've got two 12" Polk MM2124DVCs in a 2 cubic foot sealed box on a Prime R2-750 that's keeping me satisfied.