Amp research power steps

Anybody put these on a 2024 model? Was wondering if the 2023 amp research work on the 2024. Realtruck shows them unavailable currently

 

What about Amp Xtreme version for Hybrid models…

 

These do not come up on your web site.

 

Based on a chat with Realtruck.com sales (parent company of AMP Research) I ordered the AMP Extreme model. The installation instructions were confusing so I called AMP and spoke to tech support. The instructions call for two wires (purple/purple black) connected to an OBDII plug and two wires (blue/white) tapped into wires in another harness. My harness does not have white/blue wires. This is not what I would call Plug and Play as advertised (I’ve had three other sets of AMP power steps and the one that was Plug and Play did not require tapping into wires - this install requires both). When I told the tech this was for a 2024 Tundra, he said 2024 is not supported yet as they are having issues with the door triggers firing consistently and in some hybrid models, the motor hardware doesn’t line up properly. I offered to keep the assembly if they would send me whatever upgrade or installation instructions that would solve this, but since he had no idea when it would be resolved, I returned it to Realtruck and ordered to Go Rhino steps. Very disappointed since I have had great experience with AMP in the past.

good luck.

 

Yeah, we had this discussion in the other thread. I waited a long time for AMP to release these things only to find all the odd design choices they made. They are not really PnP since you need to tap 2 trigger wires... but then why on earth even sell a product that is pretend PnP? IOW, why not just have you tap the other 2 trigger wires whilst you are at it and avoid the "PnP" complications and expense? And also avoid the need for those of us who have other devices plugged into the OBD port so we would also then need to buy the special AMP cable? And then the need to drill the frame to mount the boards, when the other guys' product doesn't require that? So, I am leaning back towards the Rhino steps now... unless maybe the AMPs go on a half price sale.

 

Rhino's are still running good on my '23. Watched a few videos from retailers that compared the Rhino's to the previous Amps trying to decide to wait or not on AMP. Appears as though Rhino took a lot of what Amp was known for and built it even better. The magnet door sensors that a lot of people dislike work really well and unnoticeable. Quality and install I have been impressed with. That said... these are the only electric steps I've owned.

 

I just had another look at the Rhinos and they have a new version with only 2 mounting brackets instead of 3 in the original version and is $350 cheaper. Probably just would have a lower total weight capacity which should not be an issue for most of us. The ad copy does not say that it is single motor so I assume these are still dual. Maybe it just omits the idler bracket.

 

In the installation instructions, it shows both types: 3 bracket (2 motors and one idler) and 2 bracket (2 motors), so your assumption appears true.

 

It is interesting they offer options for 2 or 3 brackets, but the descriptions don’t mention anything about weight capacity or any specific performance differences…I clicked both options and they list dual motors for both which is great. I live in cold snowy climates, motorized items don’t work well. For example I have to turn OFF the auto closing mirrors in the winter, they get lodged easily.

 

Yeah, they don't give you enough information in the descriptions. And the $350 price difference seems a lot for just a couple of idler brackets. And it seems like the 2 bracket model might be better for a double cab like mine than for a CrewMax. Shorter boards should flex less and not miss that center support.

 

Well, I finally got off the fence on this and ordered the Rhinos. I called GoRhino and they said that the 3 bracket model has 600 pound weight capacity and the 2 bracket model 350 pounds... per side, of course. I am only 200 pounds and I have the double cab so I went with the 2 bracket version which was $350 cheaper. I got them directly from GoRhino as Real Truck doesn't list the 2-bracket version. It might be awhile before I get around to install them what with it being winter all of a sudden. Maybe have to wait until next month when I'll be in Florida for a visit.

 

Just finished my install yesterday got most of it done on Saturday before the temp dropped. I could work in the garage where it was +50°. Hardest part was running the wires and then aligning the magnets to the sensor. The inside switch wire was a bit too short, but if you can go under the console, it would work. I went under the front passenger seat and around the console toward the dash on the driver side. Here’s some pics.

 

Looks great. Some other member here took the wires under the console and posted some photos. I'll dig that thread up before I do this install. And I am also planning to have a close look at and test the door pin switch wires to see if they are the typical ground when door open. If that is the case, I'll try using those instead of the magnets. Interesting place for the override switch. I'll have to consider that.

Unfortunately, the Tundra won't fit in my 1-car closet and there is a car in there that can't come out of there in bad winter weather.

 

Hey Chuck, MayPayne over in the other thread said his set came with uneven brackets that have the boards not sitting level front to back. Are yours the same? I am hoping that might be an early defect and later sets are fixed. Maybe?

 

Mine look even to me. When it gets a bit warmer I’ll take some outside pics so we can see it better. They seem to be tight to the underside when closed. When I installed the motors and idlers, I left them hand tightened until I finished installing the step rails and adjusted them. I noticed as I tightened the step rails and then the motors/idlers that it seemed to level out.

 

I guess I picked a bad time to order mine. I didn't know that Rhino was in Laredo and that the shipment has to go through Houston, and they have some icy weather. Not to mention one storm just through here and another coming. My FedEx shipment is delayed, which is OK since I won't install it right away, but I just hope it doesn't get banged up or wet from sitting on the tarmac or during handling.

 

Yeah, the weather has things messed up. I'm in Austin and have been watching the weather in Dallas/Waco/etc. Just glad I can work from home until I retire in a few months.

I measured the distance between step boards and body when retracted and extended. Mine are even all across the step on both passenger and driver side and the same distance on both sides. I would then assume that my brackets are uniform. I noticed there was some room for adjustment on the motor and idler brackets and followed instructions to install everything hand tight and then tighten/torque boards first and then all motor/idler brackets. Ordered the switch mentioned to make it blend in. I'll deal with that when it arrives

 

Yeah, I remember reading that in the install directions to wait to tighten everything down. Same as with all their fixed boards. I am betting that is Max's issue, too, rather than a long bracket. But he did by a rebranded set, not direct from Rhino, so who knows what the provenance of those are.

Not sure what I will do for a switch yet but not critical. I probably won't bother to put one in the dash since it won't be used much at all. I have always installed alarm valet switches and such in consoles and might do that for this. Really can use any single pole on/off switch and I need to look and see what might make sense.

 

I just like the look of that "OEM" type switch. I'll have to figure out where he got the panel light connections though. Take care and keep warm!

 

Hey Chuck, my Rhinos came yesterday, 2 days late due to weather issues. With our terrible subfreezing weather that is keeping the snow piles up along my driveway I am not sure when I will get to this project. But I am thinking that I might have to do it in phases.... first do the board unit physical installation and then do the wiring later. Can the boards be placed in their retracted position with no power connected? Or would I need to just make a temporary connection to drive them up?

 

you’ll need to make a temp connection. At least I could do this in my garage. Here’s what I did:
1) installed the motors / idlers
2) connected the wiring harness to the motors and battery, then connected the switch and turned on to deploy motors
3) connected the steps to the motors, using the switch to retract and deploy, made some adjustments and aligned with front of doors. Tightened and torqued the step bolts and torqued the motor bolts.
4) turned switch off to retract. Disconnected the switch. Disconnected harness from battery. Steps will stay in retracted position until switch is reconnected and turned on.
5) the next day I did the internal wiring and finished up. This is where you could also disconnect the harness from motors and controller if you wanted to drive with motors and steps installed without completing the wiring.

 

Thanks, I have some portable 12v power supplies I can use to run these up and down if necessary. It looks like they came retracted. Do you happen to have a close up photo of how and where any of the motors attach? It is too icy and cold for me to go under. The diagrams in the written directions aren't very clear.

Lack of a bigger garage is killing me. I changed the oil on the Tundra and Vette in late September so I wouldn't need to do it again until it warms up. But I didn't expect the weather would be this cold and nasty for so long now.

Edit: never mind, I climbed under anyway and it is obvious. I may do the board physical install tomorrow when we have a heat wave of 38 degrees. Wiring may have to wait.

 

Yes, they are retracted out of the box. Hopefully you can see placement of the motors from these passenger side pics. Motors are all labeled as well. Front right (passenger) has 3 bolts. Idler and rear have 2. If no idler, the controller uses shorter bolts in place of idler. I understand that there are bolts in the body on the inside above the pinch weld if your truck didn’t come with running boards which you will remove. My truck came with running boards, which I removed and attached motors / idler in place of them. The orientation of the motor bracket is with the motor facing the rear.

 

I already went under and had a look. It is obvious where they go which is right into the stock mounting points.

 

I went with the AMP steps. Very happy with the size and stability. A bit louder than I was expecting, but not a dealbreaker. I didn’t take a picture, but I did get the switch installed. It lets me keep them out, in, or automatic open/close. There’s a nice delay between closing the door and the step retracting. The steps also have a nice drop, it’s very easy to step up into the truck.
Also glad there are not magnets on the doors.
If I had 18” wheels, I might feel the steps were too low to the ground. I may have to spring for a lift kit next

Edit: this is a 2024

 

Glad you got them to work. Which model did you get?

 

Looks like you don’t have a Hybrid correct? Which Amp model did you purchase?

 

Could you please take a measurement of the distance from the top of the deployed step to the ground?