Another King 3.0 rubbing thread

I just upgraded from ICON 2.5s to King 3.0s and initially had contact with the shock from the bolt head on the sway bar. I removed the sway bar but now I rub the coils on my tie rod ends at full lock. Since CB tie rods are pretty thick this doesn't help my situation but I like how robust they are for my setup.

I know there are many threads on 3.0 coilovers and rubbing but I was hoping for any new opinions or ideas. I have read tons of threads here and on TT on 3.0 coilovers as well as alignment and can't seem to come up with a clear solution.

I run this truck pretty hard and take it places where avoiding near / full lock is really not an option so "don't go to full lock" will not work for me.

BDS 7" lift
King custom 3.0 coilovers
ICON Billet Delta joint UCAs
Coachbuilder steering kit
Kansei offroad 17 x 8.5 -10offset with 37 x 12.5 Yoko MT

Current alignment specs attached, I was hoping to get my alignment shop to see if they could add a bit more Caster to clear the coils without messing up the rest of the alignment

Anyone have any luck with Caster > 3 on the rest of the alignment / drivability of their truck?

Any help greatly appreciated!


Wheel Straight

Wheel at lock

 

I would ask a fab shop about making you a chromoly version of the coach builder tie rod end. I think you could machine a smaller diameter tie rod sleeve if using chromoly instead of aluminum

 

What he said. You have no need of those tie rod ends... put the stockers back on and see if it clears.

 

Thanks Rubber
Would love to hear other opinions as well. I bought the CBs for the additional travel, improvement in steering hangup with BDS lift, and that they are beefier.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/tundra-2007-coachbuilder-steering-kits.2094/
My truck is an overland / offroad setup so it is HEAVY but I do actually drive my truck hard, and with 37s I like having robust components... but I never had OEM on this setup so not sure if they are plenty strong enough for the job.

Unfortunately OEMs are long gone.

 

Try adding caster first. Above 3 is no problem. Most of the guys I wheel with actually prefer higher and are around the 5 range. Some even higher.

 

Maybe something like this?

 

I have the truck going into the alignment shop tomorrow. I am asking them to shoot for moving the caster until it doesn't rub and then see if they can get everything else in spec.

 

Is this a Moog?

 

I don't think so, I remembered seeing them and went to google today. The sight I was on had strait and curved options next to each other.

 

Truck is currently at the alignment shop, targeting Caster 4-6 or what it takes to clear the coils.

I will update later today / tomorrow with alignment specs and results

 

Update. Try as much as they could they couldn't quite get it to fully clear at lock in reverse. Alignment specs attached.
They did get more clearance though which is good enough for me, i'll just paint the coils periodically.

Alignment guy says the BDS knuckle is possibly contributing to this issue (if it extended a bit further forward where the tie rod connected, this wouldn't be an issue).

I am thinking of grinding a touch off the tie rod arm coating at the spot where it rubs... will check with @Coachbuilder1 if this is safe (just need a few more mm deep off. probably half inch in length)

 

How does it drive? The toe is a bit high and you should have more caster on the driver's side to account for road crown

 

Update: I haven't had a chance to take the truck on any fire roads / offroad yet (will this weekend) but on road it handles great. Without the front sway bar there is a bit more body roll (to be expected) but I am getting used to it and likely will never put it back on.

I get just a teeny bit of rub at full lock in reverse, that said I used to hit the sway bar so I think I actually get about the same turn radius if I stay just before lock.
I am going to stick with as is for a little while and see how things go before I play around with getting different tie rods and opening another can of worms. Might shave down the outer edge of the coachbuilder shackles to see if that helps (still undecided).

 

Just came here to say I have THE SAME exact issue.... BDS kit, and tie rods hitting my kings and it is killing my soul to see the paint rub off... did you ever find a solution or are you just living with it?

 

Removing the sway bar fixed the issue of rubbing on the coils.
The coach builder steering kit for me makes it so the tir rods do not hit the coilovers

I feel you. We Paid A LOT of $$$ for these coilovers, it killed me to see the contact

 

Links here https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify...der-steering-kit-bds-4-5-7-procomp-6-7-zone-5

 

Thank you so much !!!

 

Also for alignment and " Toyota Lean" I added the 1 inch shims from CB as well
And better alignment shop got things much aligned more optimally. I also rotate 5 tires every 3k and keep an eye on wear

 

What were your final alignment specs ?