Anti-seize vs Thread locker

I have been looking all over and can't find a definitive answer: when to use anti-seize compound vs thread locker?

For instance, if I'm replacing my front brake rotors and pads, do the caliper fasteners take anti-seize or thread locker? How about tire lug nuts? How about radiator mounts? Etc...

I've seen people saying it has to do with vibration, if that is true don't all parts of vehicles vibrate? I've seen some people say it has to do with temperature, if that is true don't most fasteners never exceed 200 degrees F? (The exceptions being near the combustion and exhaust)

 

I use thread locker when I dont want something coming apart by itself. Some examples are ball joint to spindle bolts, bolts in hard to see places like on my clutch, on my steering pump, things like that.

I use anti seize on maintenance things where I know I'll be back to pull it apart soon, especially if dissimilar metals or things that are exposed to elelements. Things like the bolts that hold my brake calipers on, shock mounting bolts, exhaust bolts, things like that.

I have used anti seize on lug nuts but I stopped doing that and wiped my nuts clean just in case the tire shop forgets to use a torque wrench.

 

Thread locker is more expensive, but I use it on threads and I use anti-seize on mating surfaces and on the threads of things that are difficult to remove.

 

Busting some chops, I don't want caliper bolts falling out due to road vibrations but I also want to be able to take it off when servicing the brakes. So do I put both?

 

Both wont work, the greasy anti seize wins. I use anti seize there because the end of the bolt is exposed to elements, so I would rather prevent it from seizing. Torque it to spec and paint mark it, it won't go anywhere.

Paint marking should be done way more I think. I have a few paint markers and once I've torqued a fastener down I leave a mark. Good to track what hasn't been tightened yet and also track if that fastener has moved later on.

 

What paint markers do you prefer?

 

I mean you're likely not going to hurt anything using some blue thread locker on most things.

Even with anti seize a properly torqued fastener shouldn't loosen from vibration present on a vehicle.

All that said I've slapped anti seize on nearly every fastener I've removed from every vehicle I've owned. It's almost a necessity in PA if you want to make sure the rust doesn't lock it for you.

 

A tech has told me that pretty much all toyota bolts have some kind of thread locker on them, it’s not in the service manual

 

Anything works as long as its visible, I pick up a few markers at Michael's once in a while. I've even used my wifes nail polish in a pinch. Bright colors are best.

Something like this
https://www.michaels.com/premium-br...rt/M20001585.html?dwvar_M20001585_color=Black

 

When using anti-seize pretty sure the ft lb of tightness is supposed to be reduced by 10% or so, anyone know for sure? Also if your using thread locker make sure to only use the blue medium strength and not the red which is permanent.

 

1. Coming from frame/ body work as a younger man I use anti seize on all suspension parts, wheel lugs, exhaust and different metal to metal bolts( example aluminum to cast iron water pump bolts not where a gasket would go)and any stainless steel threads with a harden / low grade nut or bolt to prevent thread gauling. Any nut that has a cotter key. Not on any bearing or surface (needing a gasket) a bearing would touch. Use a torque wrench on most or if not all 3/8 to 2” nuts, bolts etc. Once it’s torqued down and it’s mostly in an accessible place re check torque after it’s been hot/cold environment. Like a wheel lug nut.

Thread locker, can be used in many areas but there’s many different kinds of thread lock for example,

• LOCTITE® Threadlocker 242. ®
• LOCTITE® Threadlocker 243™
• LOCTITE® QuickTape® 249™ Blue Threadlocker Tape.
• LOCTITE® Blue Stick Threadlocker....are all different and used for different purposes

I’d look up the way you may be using before you actually use it. It may be the wrong one for your application. I just don’t use it because I think it’s going to enhance the thought it’s going to help secure that nut or bolt... for example I used 242 on my 13” flexible radio antenna because I don’t want it to take it off and I want it to stay in place while I own my Tundra. Thats my understanding of these two different products. Anti seize vs thread lock.

 

Wet torque is typically 25% lower than dry torque. But that's a very rough and generic estimate.

 

Been throwing anti seize on mine for the last 15 years or so with no issues. Why would you suggest against it?

 

If there's some thread lock on there when I take a bolt off, I put some back on. I usually use the red (unless I have information to the contrary). I actually have a tube of Honda red that has lasted me for 15 years. I use copper anti-seize on my spark plugs and exhaust bolts. Not a professional mechanic. I have a Haynes manual that I use when tackling big jobs and generally follow a combination of that and personal experience. I've never had an exhaust bolt or spark plug fail to come out after using the copper anti-seize. Never had a bolt fall off after using the threadlock.

 

Alrighty. Do as you wish and I'll keep doing it my way. can't say I've ever had or noticed a out nut back off and I haven't ever had one break either. Given what I've put my junk through I guess that appeases my doubts. In a perfect world I probably wouldn't use anything on lugs, but vehicles that see the street and snow don't live in perfect worlds.

 

Or you can be an ass and you can also be wrong probably applies. Sorry I forgot you were a secret squirrel know it all that's into some nanotech g13 classified stuff. I am not worthy I am not worthy!

 

While you're not wrong about over torquing lubricated vs dry fasteners, I've found anti-seeze on semi lugs, especially cattle trailers helpful in disassembly, and have never had one loose torque. But at the end of the day, it's all in the way someone was taught, and what they perceive works in their mind.

 

Agreed, there is also a major torque difference between pickup trucks, and class 8 vehicles, where lug torque can be as high as 750ftlbs

 

Were you a Nuke ? cause this is some serious Submarine level stuff.. I was a conventional MM, never seen that chart before , Lol

 

I read that a lot of spark plugs thesed days have a anti seize coating. You can tell by the color of the threads.

 

If you ever have some spare time look up the NSTM Chapter 75.

 

I hear ya brother, mine does it all the time. Lol