Approximate cost of all fluids change?

Hello to all you Tundra experts. I would like to ask you for some advice . My dad has 2003 Tundra 4x4 that has been sitting for 1.5 years due to his eye sight deteriorating. It has 130k without much been done to it. As thing is pretty bulletproof.
I know timing belt/water pump needs to be done for sure. Also all fluids needs to be swapped. Since it’s been sitting. What should I budget to swap all fluids? And thank you all for your input.
Have a blessed day!

 

Truck looks good. Clearly you're not in a rust belt state, which makes the truck that much more worth keeping up. The big issue here will be rubber seals. They tend to dry and crack on trucks that don't see lots of miles. They're used everywhere ... on check valves like the vent on the brake booster and the PCV valve on the valve cover, valve cover gaskets, vacuum hoses, etc.

You left out a critical detail: Is it 2WD or 4WD? If 4WD you add the front diff and transfer case.

Read here for what you need to know, overall, things to watch out for: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Know the correct fluids for your truck. Most of that is covered in that thread. For example, there are some gotchas. If it has LSD rear, there are virtually no safe synthetics. Power steering rack takes ATF, anything DEX will suffice. For this specific engine, to function properly, coolant should be pink (or red) now yellow, green, purple, orange or other. After sitting that long, expect the valve covers may be weeping/leaking, confirming factory torque spec may solve that, but be forewarned: overtightening valve cover bolts will lead to snapping them off. Slap a socket on each one and see if you can spin it off. If you can, hand tighten it with the socket in your hand, then switch to a ratchet and give no more than 1/4 twist.

I wouldn't bother with trans flush, or even trans drain/fill. Fluids I'd change out:

• Oil (6.5qts needed)
• Rear diff fluid (will be around 3-4qts, need more info on truck)
• Coolant flush
• Brake fluid (complete flush, it's been sitting in steel lines collecting garbage/rot, you really should bleed until old fluid is fully purged, ONLY use a sealed container of fresh fluid!)
• Washer fluid

If you wanted to go over the top, you may also want to replace the power steering fluid. There's a sticky thread on that here.

Old gas clogs fuel filters. I would drain or siphon what's in the tank. Get a 5 gallon gas can full of gas, and 2 bottles of Seafoam "High Mileage". Put the 5 gallons and an entire bottle of Seafoam in the gas tank. Drive it for 20-30 miles. Top off the tank at the gas station. Add the other bottle of Seafoam to the tank.


At this point of time in that truck's life, along with the fluid changes, I would buy two bottles of ATP's AT-205. I'd put one full bottle into the crankcase with the new oil to refresh all the seals in the engine. I would add 2oz to the power steering reservoir (I want to say total capacity is 1.5qt? Add 1.5oz per quart)

While at your local auto parts store, have them test the battery for voltage, amperage, and health. They'll degrade if left for longer periods without a charge. This may save you trying to get a jump later.

You should also inspect and replace the air filter if needed.

STICK WITH OEM TOYOTA OIL AND AIR FILTERS. Toyota makes filters that exceed function and quality of virtually everything on the market, the closest comparison would be Wix. Every dealership sells filters.

DO NOT buy your auto parts off scAmazon, fleaBay, or WallyMart, all are a haven for knockoffs.

If you have an Advance Auto near you, you can order online for in-store pickup and get 15% off with coupons from www.RetailMeNot.com and often times the coupon RMN15 will take 15% off for many items (some are exempt).

All-in you should be looking at less than $400 in fluids and filter total. Sounds like you may be younger, compared to some of us. If you need any help or advice, don't hesitate to ask here. Many of us have been doing this for a loooong time. If you don't want to create a new thread for a simple question, post it over in the "Lunch Table" thread, where we post stuff like that, and random banter.

 

Make sure you address the missing j hook on the battery tray before you drive it.

 

Well that’s pretty helpful advice/information. I didn’t not think about old fuel. Thank you for your input!
It’s definitely worth keeping this one, as they don’t make them like they used too.
Have a good day!

 

It looks like the J-hook is there (top red circle here). His tray is like mine. 3 pinch points, I marked in red. One bolt at the radiator support. The bar at the front battery edge. Then the j-hook at the rear with nut at the top (and its respective bar).

I do notice the ground wire that's off and must be reconnected. I think that may be for the OEM tow package harness. Put a blue arrow on it here:

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The negative been disconnected so it doesn’t drain the battery as nobody been driving the truck. You guys notice everything…. Good eye!

 

Batteries are still water-filled, and not totally sealed. That water does ultimately off-gas/evaporate to a certain degree. If enough evaporates out from sitting, and the plates/cells in the battery get too corroded, it will impact the battery.

Better to be safe than sorry, is all I'm saying. Nothing sucks worse than walking around a parking lot trying to find someone to jump your vehicle.

 

I basically just finished what you’re about to start. Let me do some math and I’ll edit.

I’d like to add my Wally World has Toyota oil filters in stock, on location. I’d never order from them but I do pick them up

edit: for FLUIDS ALONE. You’re looking at around $120?? I went to Walmart and got Valvoline full synthetic high mileage oil, Valvoline atf (red bottle) (I calculated 2 since you may need to do a drain flush on your transmission and a PowerSteering flush), brake fluid, and oil filter.

Damn add $36 for coolant. I use Peak asian premix. Do the coolant when you do the timing belt water pump. It’s all gonna come out when do this. So yea. It’ll save you some $$$ I paid twice for a radiator flush. FML

so $155ish