Battery replacement?

My 21 is coming up on 3 years old (Bought in Sept of 21) and even though I have not had any issues with the battery, I know the OEM battery is not known for their long life, so I may be proactive and replace it before it leaves me stranded somewhere.

Looking at the posts here, it appears that the X2 AGM 27F is highly recommended
I also was looking at non AGM such as the Duralast Platinum EFB 27F from Autozone https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...ci-group-size-27f-810-cca-27f-efb/1070584_0_0 or possibly even the Rural King 27F EFB https://www.ruralking.com/rural-king-platinum-efb-automotive-battery-rk-efb27f

I do have the Platinum 10 Year/100K warranty and am willing to bet if installed a AGM and the GM Fuse, they would deny warranty work on the Alternator if it went bad down the road.
Thoughts?

 

Don't go down the battery rabbit hole, it won't end well, lol. Its been discussed here to no ends. Some say to keep and AGM at optimal levels you have to install a diode to the charging system so that it charges higher than factory. Some have personally called these manufs, and they say no need to charge at a higher voltage. Your going to get so many different responses, so be ready. In the end you will still not know what to buy. My 2020 battery went dead after 2 years. Replaced for free with a Toyota battery which is supposed to be way better than the oem. When that one goes bad, I will replace it with a mid of the road battery and call it a day.

Most batteries are made by 2 or 3 manufs and then lables are slapped on them with the stores name, i.e Duralast, Everlast, etc.

 

Someone made the comment in the last battery post I read that Toyota batteries come with a lifetime warranty. Anyone confirm what the Toyota battery warranty is?

 

Following because I know my OEM is probably going to need to be replaced this year. I've needed to jump it once this year. Probably need to start thinking about a battery maintainer since it can go a couple weeks between being driven.

 

On my battery I believe it said 72 or 84 months something in that ballpark. That said, I just replaced mine with this one from Costco:



Core charge refund basically covered tax, think it was like $110 after tax or so.

As @pursuit2550 pointed out, AGM batteries are technically supposed to charge at a higher voltage than Tundras charge at, hence the diode etc. to up the charging voltage. Like @Azblue said, keep it simple. I went to Costco, pulled my battery in the parking lot, brought it inside and bought a new one, popped it in quick and away I went. Only had 2 guys come up asking if I needed help lmao.

Pro-tip, if you don't have a Costco membership, just buy a Costco giftcard anywhere and they'll let you in to shop.

 

Another vote to go to Costco. Also pro tip, if you have a jumper pack, or I suppose you could just use cables connected to another battery, you can swap out the battery while keeping power connected to the truck so that everything doesn't have to be reset.

 

100%

 

I think you are smart to look at just replacing the OEM sooner rather than later. Mine was doing fine until a few weeks ago in my 2020. I had been testing it every oil change because I had read all the stories of the OEM's going bad early and suddenly. I had been keeping the fluid up in it, putting it on charger once or twice a year to desulfate and recondition if needed, etc. Made no difference. It just up and decided to take a sudden dump when I was driving one day out of the blue; no warning whatsoever. I drove to an appointment about 15 minutes from my house. Went in for about 20 minutes. Came out, and it was dead. It barely activated my door locks. I feel lucky to have gotten 3.5 years out of it.

I was able to use a jump pack (which I started carrying just because of the bad reputation of these Toyota OEM batteries) and get it going and limped to Autozone about 5 minutes away. I replaced it with a Duralast Gold lead acid since my son works there and gets a discount and it happened to be close by. If I had my choice I would have replaced with a Deka regular flooded lead acid, but when it happens like that, you pretty much have reduced choices in making it to whatever place is nearest. So far the Duralast is fine. I think it is either a Johnson Controls or Clarios manufactured battery, but it is hard to tell anymore. I prefer East Penn batteries when I can get 'em.

As a side note, I had tested it with a TOPDON battery tester and my with my battery charger that has an integrated tester just a few weeks before that and both said state of life was around 75%. I retested it out of curiosity at the shop when buying the new one; less than 25% sol.

 

84-month warranty and 24-month free replacement on the TrueStart

https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/toyota-truestart-battery-710-cca-0054427f60710#

Really a pretty good deal for the price honestly. If I had been closer to the dealer and they had one, I would have probably just bought one of these.

 

Since you haven't had any battery issues maybe your money would be better spent on a jump pack, for when it does finally die. I'm on my original battery in my 2018, with 62,000 miles. Which reminds me, I should buy a jump pack too lol.

 

I had the opportunity to upgrade my battery from the OEM. It was about almost 3 years old on the OEM battery.

Went with X2 power Group 34 AGM.

 

Glad this thread opened. Something that's been on my list.

Bought my used Tundra from Carmax Nov '23 with 22k miles on it. I'm not sure if CarMax sells all their vehicles with new batteries or if the battery I have is aged. I now have approx 33k miles. I do see that it has a 9/23 sticker on there so I'm thinking maybe that's when CarMax installed it?
Either way, like OP mentioned, I'd also like to be proactive before it leaves me stranded. Also concerned that this one is sweating. I'm gathering here that Costco 27F may be the best choice.

 

Go crazy and get an anti gravity battery, only weighs 15lbs.

 

Unless you live anywhere where it goes below freezing.

From their manual:

 

My 19 still use original battery, if it goes bad I’ll get one from Walmart, return and checkout lines have less people than Costco

 

I'm a fan of AGM batteries; no fluid to slosh around or evaporate over time (or freeze), very vibration resistant, and no outgassing to corrode the battery terminals. With my OE battery, I had to pull my battery cables EVERY oil change because they were covered in corrosion after a few thousand miles - once or twice enough to cause slow cranking - and leak down the side of the batter to start corroding the fender below it. With an AGM, I don't have that issue.

I pulled the OE battery at 60k miles, replaced with and Diehard AGM that lasted another 130k miles. I just replaced it again last year. Sears sold the original Diehard AGM, but now that they are defunked, Advanced Auto sells the Diehard brand; it was the only AGM available locally in the correct size when I needed to replace it again last year, so I went with another Diehard. Wallyworld sells an AGM that is almost $100 cheaper, but I would have needed to drive a few towns over to get one without waiting a few days for ship to store. For the price, I'd honestly have no issues trying that one.

The only downsides I see to AGM are price (generally $50-100 more expensive than a flooded cell, but still much cheaper than lithium), limited battery sizes (can't find 27F locally, but 24F and 34R are usually somewhat available), and the occasional need to top it off with a battery charger. I have a battery charger and do all my own maintenance, so it isn't an issue or inconvenience to top off the battery every once in awhile when changing the oil. I've been running a 24F and it has not failed to crank over the motor in -20F weather (ok, it may have been -30F once, too..) and 100+F summer. I just replaced the battery in the sequoia with the same 24F battery and it had no issues with a full day of travel in weather up to 118F.

 

I am assuming that there was no issues with the 34 or the 24F fitting without modification or extra parts?
What is the benefit of using the 34 over the 27F or 24F? Availability?

 

Just replaced mine. 2019 , I have a good friend who owns an auto parts store, he sells AC Delco.

 

Go to your local interstate dealer and tell them you want a group 27F blem. It will be a new 27F interstate battery with a slightly blemished outer housing, re branded as econo power. 60 bones out the door. Comes with a warranty too but for 60 bones, I simply change all my vehicles batteries every three years no matter what.

 

I have heard good things about AGM batteries. I have one in my boat and seems to have more guts and never seems to run low. The only reason I would hesitate to replace with the same is price. They have gone up in price, at one time over $400.

I might consider a top on the line NAPA battery as they seem to recover well if you drain them. I would avoid the OPTIMA batteries. Never had good luck with them. If they drain, they do not recover well.

 

These are Awesome batteries - bought my '15 sequndra in '18 - came with an interstate - its now mid '24 and its still going Very strong - spins that motor Fast to this day and the cost is not any different than even wallymarts 2 yr batt LOL

 

I went with the 34 since I also had the Rago Fab battery holder.

 

I agree with you're entire post. The only thing I can add is the guys with flooded batts should be topping them off as well... every 6 months with a microprocessor controlled charger that can detect the saturation point.

 

Batteries are a hit or miss. My original has been in my truck since late 2019. When it goes out I'll be buying an interstate from costco.

 

At Costco you purchase batteries at the Tire Counter and the batteries are right there. To each their own, but I believe Costco's Interstate's lead acid are the cheapest around barring any sales etc. Looks like their AGM's would be same price as Walmart. I'm also not seeing a 27F Everstart battery from Walmart (might be missing it).

For a 24F prices for lead and AGM are:



For 27F the prices are:

 

I actually started using a battery tender on my group 34. Doesn’t hurt to top off every couple of days.

 

Just throwing a wrench in the gears…my Oem battery on my 2019 quit while I was out of town and towing my boat. Of course.
I was filling up my 36 gallon tank to the brim with 27 gallons of fuel, and after fueling battery was dead as can be. The station attendant jumped me off and told me where a nearby WalMart was, so I headed there. That store didn’t have a 27 size with the correct terminal configuration, so I ended up using a 30H series. The 30H was a tad wider and all other dimensions were close enough. Bonus was an extra 20 amps or so.

 

I believe most manufacturers are starting to taper off production of the Group 27F AGMs. My local Interstate store told me that Interstate no longer offers a 27F AGM. Hence why every "battery finder" now directs Tundra owners to the Group 24F since it's shared across more vehicles and fits the footprint.

My local Batteries+ said they don't receive shipments of the X2 27F AGMs any longer as part of their regular restocking, but they could order me one. So, I ended up doing that. Takes 2 weeks and I had to give them a 50% deposit.

I opted to stick with the 27F since it tends to have considerably more CCAs than the comparable 24F. Not that I'll ever notice a difference, but I wanted the extra peace of mind since we're moving up to higher elevation and will be dealing with more cold weather & snow than we ever have before.

 

I knew of their jump packs. I had no idea that they made batteries too.