Best 1st gen headlight solution?

I’ve seen it heavily discussed and, as the new owner of 1st gen, am trying to solve the dinky headlight problem. I’ve read a variety of posts suggesting tweaking stock lights, just putting in something brighter with the wire harness, or after market options.

I wanted to ask those who have read it all or tried it out, what’s the best solution?

Im ordering new stock headlights due to my old ones being too fogged to restore, but want to address this project now if there is anything else to be done.

I would love more output, but all the options seem to involve a lot of tweaking with not a lot of results

 

Add a light bar with magnets if you want more light. Easiest, cheapest, and quickest honestly.

Others have had success with projector retrofits. Many just throw in some LEDs clock them, and adjust them correctly and have achieved better output.

For the fogged up housings? You'll have to replace. TYC, DEPO, EagleEyes makes good, cheap housings. For the best, OEM.

 

Yup, what he said ^^^

Honestly, I think we are all still trying to figure out what the best bang vs. buck is to get brighter headlights and/or projectors in our trucks.

First thing you want is clear, haze-free housings or anything you do is worthless. From there, the current solutions members are using with our trucks are:

1. Get an aftermarket harness that sends direct power to the headlights on fatter wire, then install 100w bulbs in stock, unmodified housings. There’s a thread here already dedicated to that easily findable via search. (link)

2. Get aftermarket LED bulbs (non-projector), then dial them in using the stock, unmodified housings. It’s really important to make sure they’re aimed and rotated properly. (some info and shots here)

3. Modify your housings by removing the cup-shaped reflector inside and install any of the H4 “mini-projectors” out there in, then aim and rotate properly. (link and also link)

4. Modify your housings by baking them open, removing the cup-shaped reflector, then installing any of the many full-sized projector retrofit kits out there (Morimoto is hugely popular), then re-bake sealed, re-install, aim and rotate properly. (link)

With many LED headlighting options, you may need to install a resistor on at least one side of the lighting circuit or you’ll be stuck in low beams with no fog lights or high beams available.

whatever headlight housings you get, try to make sure they’re CAPA-certified (it’ll say if they are!) if possible, just so you’re not buying unregulated, unaccountable garbage. It’s usually less than 10% more, sometimes as little as 2% more, and they come with extended warranties.

I decided to skip #2. I went straight to #3 recently with newly-bought housings, knowing I didn’t want to do #2 for a wild array of reasons (but mostly, there’s lots of garbage on the market), and didn’t want to do #1 because I hate adding spaghetti, I didn’t want more power draw and heat, and wanted a whiter, crisper output. I also knew if I wasn’t happy with #3, my housing is already prepped and ready for #4, unless another mini-projector option hit the market in the next 6-12 months.

 

Projector retrofit will give you the best lighting from your headlights.

 

It’ll definitely give you the cleanest, most modern lighting possible, but with the most work possible too.

#3 option is very approachable in under 30 minutes at meager cost…

#4 in under 3 hours and significantly more cost….

#1 will have you in for an hour or so and meager cost.

#2 is probably the lowest effort, meager cost.

 

Bet upgrade I've done!

 

I think a wiring upgrade (especially if going with 55W ballasts) tied with a projector retro is the way to do it. I just picked up a spare set of OEM headlights and a headlight resto kit for the same upgrade as time permits. Banking on some deals for memorial day perhaps since I'm not really in a rush.

I may read up a little on the mini projector results more - I could see that as a good bang for buck option too. If you ordered new stock headlights and are open to other mods later down the road - there is no reason you couldn't go in steps. Along with your new headlights you could simply try to upgrade wiring and see what you think.

 

I’ve got Morimoto 2stroke 3.0s. Been pretty happy with them definitely a good improvement over stock. I’d eventually like a retrofit but these should hold me over for now
https://www.headlightrevolution.com/h4-2stroke-led-bulbs?quantity=1


Give this website a look to compare led bulbs
https://www.bulbfacts.com/led-kits/chart/

 

I was interested in ordering the Morimoto 2stroke 3.0s from headlight revolution, but unable to get an answer from them, if the 2stroke 3.0 would work in a 2002 Tundra V8. I don't know if the bulbs can be installed in the stock headlight housing and if I need to remove the bulb shroud.

Did you choose the 2stroke 3.0 for any special reason? Over the

SaberLED Prox 65W that is the recommendation on the website you linked in your post.

Thanks

 

@root programmer i ended up with morimotos based on past experience with some of their other led stuff. I’ve good luck with morimoto and diode dynamics over the years. When I was comparing the 2stroke’s, all the reviews I read coming from Toyota owners confirmed no modifications were needed to to get the 2strokes to fit. Those den’s are interesting and seem to have good reviews though even outside of the website i linked

 

Parts I used:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1573#post-3128727

Results:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1586#post-3142167
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1586#post-3142176
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1586#post-3142170
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1587#post-3142321

Process:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1584#post-3139813
https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1586#post-3140724

 

Definitely don't want to remove the reflector or you'll be blinding everyone and not have great light output since the light won't bounce back towards the reflector.

The morimoto blows heat toward the lens so it helps with melting snow. I don't think any others have that feature.

 

Was he talking about removing the stock reflector cup/shroud? That would be a hard requirement if installing any projector, mini-H4 or the 2Stroke 3.0s ... I had to remove mine even for the mini-H4 projector swap.

 

If you go the true projector route where you have to open the housings, don't go cheap. Go Morimoto. I have cheap projectors and they leave a lot to be desired. Projectors are a big money commitment. Even my expensive ballasts have started giving me issues after only a few years.

If I end up redoing these I may try the mini projectors that @shifty` has.

 

Honestly, I drove to work in dark fog today. It's just now clearing at 1:30pm. I had the new lights and my newish yellow halogen fogs on - which are obviously misaligned, I see - and I was really happy with the output of just the new mini-projectors, and the combo of LED projectors and halogen fog lights.

It just seems like a total no-brainer to me. Even if you don't get the best mini-projectors, the difference is pretty significant.

 

Yeah, the mini projectors are a great easy upgrade; are they the best upgrade? No, but bang for buck and time they are, IMO.

 

This is something I was giving some thought today. I don't want LED projectors and plain colored fog lights. Maybe I need to go the yellow halogen route.

 

Following this thread.
I restored my orig. 2006 lenses and they are great now . . . but still stuck with the weak bulbs/ output.
Not sure which route I will go . . . or when.

 

Here's info on where I got my yellow-lens housings with halogen bulbs: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1404#post-2852779

What option did you go with to re-clear after restoring? I might've missed it, just curious.

At $80/fixture, pre-loaded with bulbs, it was a no-brainer for me to grab the DEPO replacements.

No reason to wait if you have the $$. It's really not a huge project. If I have two kids and a house to work on, and can still manage to squeeze the work in during a lunch break, anyone can do it.

I went ahead and linked this thread up in the 'So you wanna buy a 1st Gen ...' thread just to kinda index it somewhere central.

 

@shifty` . . . . I went with the wet sand /clear.
Mine weren't 'that bad' to begin with . . . but were headed in that direction.
I started with a good pre-wash then started with 600 grit using soapy water and a soft foam sanding block.
I stopped after each grit and spayed off the lenses with clean water before going finer.
Took them up to 1500 if i remember correctly. Then wiped them completely dry.
I taped off the lenses and tarp'd-off the rest of the hood / grill area.
I used the 'ClearMax 2K Clear' aerosol can. (pre-warmed in the sun while I was sanding).
First coat was a complete fog to get coverage / adhesion.
Then I just followed directions for the following coats.
If I remember correctly, I think I went with 4 coats.
I was surprised how well the clear went on and 'Laid Flat'. At first it looks like you are going to get orange peel up the wazooo, but the clear really 'floats down' nicely after a minute or so.

***WARNING*** While I am a firm believer in this method, and think it's the best 'Band-Aid' for restoration, IT IT DANGEROUS !!!
That clear coat is NASTY . . . not 'Phew, this stuff stinks' nasty . . . more like shave years off your life nasty.
I recommend using ALL safety precautions, a LEGIT breather, and in a well ventilated area.
If I did it again, I'd hose down the area surrounding around the truck to keep dust down, then run a floor fan from behind me towards the truck. That way I'd be upwind of the nasty fumes.

 

Appreciate the disclaimer, it's definitely warranted That shit is nasty, but damn does it make a novice look like a pro

Re-clearing works, but has a limited shelf life. You're buying yourself 2-3 years tops before you're hazing again, and if you park in full sun, much shorter. My FIL had me do his CRV headlights, he parks in full sun at a parking deck all day, he got about 8 months out of my refinish job. My truck, garage-kept, was still 90% clear after 18 months. At some point, it's worth it to drop the loot, but refinish is great if you have more time and talent than $$ or are generally bored.

 

Longevity tip: After refinishing I use VViVid clear vinyl over the headlights. 3+ years later they're still as good as when I refinished them. And I'll peel off and reapply VViVid if it goes bad. This was a big deal for me since the first time I tried this was is on my wife's Volvo where the replacement headlights are $1000+ EACH.

 

Used something very similar after using 3M product to remove the piss stained look. Been four years and still look new and lasts longer than some folks say.

 

Thanks for the response. I think I will order them. I need better than stock lighting, deer are hard to see on the dark windy roads where I live. I don't want to hit another deer. Plus no road marking, no center lines or fog lines.

 

Thanks for the response. I definitely don't want to blind anyone. I can drive miles without seeing another vehicle, but I don't want to blind someone on the dark roads. Keeping snow buildup to a minimum is also a benefit, since I often have to drive when it is snowing for accidents as a first responder. Good to hear modifications are not required, is a plus.

 

My 2006 stock lenses a little over a year after restoring them.
Always parked outside.

 

Thanks Shifty, much obliged for the links. Been a few more days for you - do you happen to have any pics that distinguish the cutoff you speak of? Perhaps on a dark open road to see how wide these cast?

I already have a set of OEM's that are decent (will refinish lenses prior) as backup and it is hard for me to think that throwing $60 at a pair of mini-H4 (plus wiring upgrade to stock connectors) isn't worth a "try". But... since I am willing to to a full retro and throw $350 at it I don't want to waste the time/effort more than anything. I, like many others, live very rural with lots of animals on highway and such. Don't need a full retro, I'm just not aware of a happy medium - which I think is the intent of a thread like this.

That being said - I trust your judgement as I'm sure others do - what's your take now after a week?

Thanks!

 

Yeah, there's no dark open roads around me I'm deep in light-pollution-central. I also don't drive very much at night these days. Need to get past a couple days of rain here before I'll have a good opportunity to hop on an attempt.

You may hunt around, I've seen the exact same looking pair advertised at another forum going as cheeap as $35 for both bulbs. Seems like what's happening is this: A new bulb design appears on the market. One seller pops up, selling it cheaper than seems reasonable, just to get the name out. By the time their price doubles, another vendor with a new name shows up, exact same bulb, but for about 25% less than the other brand. Once they build up to cover that 25% gap to get to the doubled price of the first brand, rinse/repeat under a new brand name a few more times until that style (inventory) is gone.

I think that's what's happened with this projector. The CO bulbs were originally around $30/pr and are now around $35/ea. BraveWAY came on the scene about a year ago, and have slowly ramped up pricing.

I get it, not wanting to spend the extra money. And I also get the concerns of being more-rural and possibly driving backroads at night.

My take, a couple weeks out, with limited evening driving (all prior to 9pm) is: "Way better than halogens, just nowhere near as good as OEM projectors" if compared to our 2020 Highlander. I'm keeping them, but may consider full retro later. This is definitely good enough for me and my driving, for now.

The mini-projectors definitely aren't as clean, the lens is nowhere near as quality as OEM, there's quite a bit of scatter - see below, the bulb does down-fire onto the reflector a bit due to its design and reflects a tiny bit of light upward. You don't get the same concise, clean, wide left-to-right coverage with the minis. But I'll say this: The f'ing high beams are absolutely redonkulous.

This is w/low beams about 4" from a wall. Proper projectors won't have this much up-cast off the reflector housing.

​

 

My take, halogen w harness, voltage booster and agm battery. But I’m stoked on heat. I have Oem led in my 2016 and love it. But they ice over quickly. Halogens are great for many reasons, full spectrum of light and tons of heat to melt snow and ice. Willingly bailing on these massive reflectors is like tossing a winning lottery ticket.

 

I think the LED/Projector retrofit's look great! I went with 65W Hella Halogens (better for ice melt here in the mountain states), and an LED dual color (Amber and White) light bar to see off road and on the dark back roads. Was an easy addition and checked the boxes I needed. Good luck on your decision.