Big job done, now no spark. Please help a simple man

First off this is my first post so if I'm doing this incorrectly, feel free to call me out or I'll probably continue doing it.

Anyways, I performed a timing belt replacement.
New knock sensors.
Repaired the knock sensor wires.
Installed a time sert in the hole the my spark plug was ejected from.

Timing belt was not blown but heavily cracked which was discovered while replacing the knock sensor.

Now I appear not to have any spark, I've gone over all my connections, right down to removing the intake as to catch anything sneaky hiding in the back.

I smell fuel when cranking.

I will be picking up a new multimeter tomorrow as well as a fuel pressure tester and a spark plug tester, as my multimeter shat itself and I want to be certain of my other beliefs.

If anyone has advice or has run into this themselves, input would be greatly appreciated, I have become a burden to all those around me for longer than I'd like as i have no other wheels.

Thanks!

 

Oh new plugs, wires and coils too.

 

I'm not familiar at all with the 1st gen Tundras, so this is nothing more than a WAG!! But in replacing your timing belt did you disconnect a sensor (purposely or inadvertently) say on the crankshaft or a camshaft. A sensor that would indicate TDC on the compression stroke so the ECU knows when to fire the plugs? If there is such a sensor, the ECU might never fire the plugs as it wouldn't know the engine was cranking. Like I said ... a WAG.

 

Any codes? If you recently did all that work, there are lots of possibilities. Coil packs and wiring should be retraced to ensure all is hooked up correctly. Timing could be off if anything moved during reassembly. A sensor could be unplugged or could have gotten damaged during the belt swap. If you have no codes to help you, start taking the covers off and inspect all of the work to retrace your steps. Frustrating to do a big job and it doesn’t fire up when your done.

 

Do you have a scan tool? Need you see if you are getting rpm signal. If not you probably not going ro get spark. Did you possibly not plug in crank/cam sensor? Any codes?

 

I am of absolutely no help whatsoever with your issue but I wish you luck and welcome!

 

Yeah absolutely check codes and see if you have any. Code reader is almost essential these days.

 

Was the trigger wheel for the crank sensor reinstalled? It’s the toothed piece that goes between the crank timing gear and crank pulley. Without it it won’t spark because it has no clue where the engines at

 

Make sure the fuel is getting to the injectors.

 

Double check that crank sensor.

https://youtu.be/rjtvFEUWyMk

 

Yup...I agree.. My money is on disconnected crank/cam position sensor.

 

Another vote for CPS here, or damaged CPS wire.

 

I gotta say first, wow didn’t expect this much advise! Very appreciative of it though!
I’m gonna give these all a shot tonight if the weather clears up and get back to you guys. For now, timing appears correct with all markers lined up and the new belt lines were lined up as well.

I do have a OBD tool albeit a upper end simple one, it’s no solus but I should be able to check RPM with it while staying dry so that will get looked at tonight for sure.

And unplugged sensors are not getting ruled out as I pulled the plenum and found the little guy at the back disconnected.

I’ll keep you all posted, and thanks again!

 

Welcome from NC! Please keep us updated!

 

this is a mortifying concept, but it is now on the list

 

Thanks!

And working on the mangler cery, I’ve had a couple projects I thought just needed one more uga dug that we’re instantly moved to the uh oh.

And the DS certification presses is actually handled through the possum lodge

 

The truck that everyone wants the manual transmission, but no one wants the motor.
It’s even harder to believe some of the 2nd gens had the 4.0 v6 in them!

 

Alright, plugged in the code reader and we’ve got an rpm reading, crank looks to be all hooked up. Only one camshaft has a sensor and it looks to be attached and undamaged.

 

What codes of any ?

 

N

No codes, there was a misfire code that I cleared that happens when the spark plug ejected and the knock sensor codes

 

Alright timing covers all disassembled, and timing marks look good.

 

Oh.. this is a v6.
Hmmm is the igniter plugged in? How about the ground bolt on the intake plenum.

 

the igniter is the bad boy on the RF wheel well, correct? and yeah the ground on the plenum sadly wasn't missed

 

yeah this thing puts out something like 190 horse. but hey, until now it did it everyday, all day!

 

Thank for the welcome! When I get this resolved I wont leave you all high and dry. Hopefully someone can learn from my experience

 

Next question. Any aftermarket alarm? Have you tried disconnecting the battery, turn the key to on, and reconnect the battery then start? Sometimes alarms will kill spark but not fuel

 

Big update, I do have spark but no start, I had a friend checking while I cranked and turns out he's blind. We tried it with me spotting and holy hellfire we've got voltage, so I've been chasing this the wrong way. I've got a fuel pressure gauge on the way.

 

Sorry didn't see you reply as I posted just now, did disconnect battery overnight. No aftermarket alarm.
I will try again with the pattern you mentioned.

 

If you think it's fuel problem take intake of throttle body and have a buddy spray brake clean as you crank it. If it starts and runs on the brake clean then it's fuel issue. We used to drive vehicles in on brake clean at the dealership when you had a vehicle with a fuel pump out. Alot easier then pushing it!

 

Carb cleaner to test for intake leaks?