Blend Doors

Does anybody have a trick to free up sticking blend doors?

 

There are some threads on this subject in the FGT (First Gen Tundras) section. Although different years the process should be similar.

 

What does FGT mean?

Thanks

 

Has anybody taken out or taken apart a heater box in a 2nd Gen Tundra? I’m getting ready to dig back in to mine and replace the dual climate servo on the drivers side for the second time in as many months. I may dill a hole this time and take a peek inside with my mini boroscope. I have a feeling that one of the blend doors is sticking. Not sure if there is something I can do to free it up

 

Yep I've had mine apart completely. Not sure if there's enough detail for what you're looking for in this thread but here ya go! https://www.tundras.com/threads/2nd...er-servo-timing-and-blend-door-failure.34236/

 

Thanks, I remember reading through this before. I’ll sell my truck and buy a Silverado before I pull the dash and I’m definitely not going to spend $4K to $5K or possibly more to get it fixed. I’ve been a die hard Toyota loyalist for over 4 decades, but am starting to have issue after issue with the 4 I currently own.

 

I had to replace a blend door in my 2005 Suburban. Initially it would reset by pulling the HVAC fuses but eventually I had to replace it because it was tick ticking…

 

I had a 1999 Suburban, 2002 and 2004 Denali’s and those were bullet proof. The reason I had those was because I had 3 kids under the age of 3. I got rear ended in the Suburban by a Sequoia at about 15 MPH when I was at a dead stop and my Suburban only needed a new bumper, the Sequoia was totaled

 

Wife has been rear ended 3 times with no damage to her Suburban. Other cars didn’t fair so well.

 

In the middle of replacing the servo and found a broken blend door lever. For the life of me, I can’t figure out what purpose it controls. I seem to have heat, AC, and can control face, feet, and defrost. The only thing I noticed was I don’t have as much air on the passenger side as I do the drivers. I’ve searched and cannot find a diagram on what each individual lever controls.

 

I got the new servo installed, everything seems to be working correctly. I can change the air to face, feet, defrost and can change the temp from hot to cold. Not exactly sure what that broken blend door does unless it’s for the dual zone feature. This time it took about 5 hours, start to finish with a few breaks in between. I even checked the HVAC codes and nothing came up.

 

I have no air coming out of any of the vents. Not sure what is going on, but suspect one of doors is not opening. As I’m fairly new to Tundras, I’ll need to do some searching. Not looking forward to this. Fortunately, somehow enough air/heat is coming out to keep the interior warm during the winter here, but does take longer to warm things up.

 

Check the defrost ducts. Usually when the servo fails, it fails on defrost mode for some reason. The air has to be coming out of somewhere, there’s no way to close all the vents at the same time. It’s definitely not a fun job and an expensive one if you have somebody do it.

 

If there’s no air anywhere check the blower motor. The blower motor fans in these are a known failure point. They are cheap and easy to replace though. 3 screws under the glove box.

 

Blower motor works. Can change the speed and can hear more noise as speed increases.
Had the dash completely disassembled on my 97 LX450, so know what’s involved.

 

Mice collecting dog food and depositing them on the cabin air filter? I’ve seen it happen. Seriously, I’ve seen it happen.

 

Does your HVAC panel have about a 30 second delay before you can do anything when you first start your truck? If so, it’s most likely the dual motor servo on the drivers side.

 

Yeah. I don’t seem to recall that when we first purchased it a year ago, but when checking out the 2011, it does the same thing in terms of taking a minute or so for the HVAC controls to light up. However, it does blow air from the vents unlike the 07.

 

That sucks. Here’s close to the method I used The part runs around $150. Got mine off eBay. It is very important to have a very strong magnetic Phillips screw driver or you will lose some screws into the abyss. FYI, the screws that hold the servo motors on to the bracket are the same ones that are used to attach the servo to the heater box in case you lose one. Not a fun job. The dealers near me wanted $2K

https://youtu.be/Yo9HTgMO2tU?si=3wocELhJZ0pmrUqL

https://youtu.be/He1q5a4U95c?si=WRyt0ir15dVjRjBd

 

Thanks for the links to the vids. Much appreciated. Will need to address this soon.

 

No problem, I had to do it twice. The second time, I had a broken blend door shaft. If you run in to a problem or have any questions please feel free to PM me. The rubber band method worked well keeping everything lined up. Just pack yourself a bunch of patience if it doesn’t snap in the first time. Good luck!