Blue Sea fuse box questions

Looking to clean up the engine bay and get some of the power leads off of the positive battery terminal. I am looking at the Blue Sea 12 circuit with negative terminals. Here is what I am running currently from the pos terminal.

4 guage for stereo
Baja Designs light bar in the hood bulge
Light bar in the bumper
Power for the 3W Liners window module
Power for air compressor for horns
Power for front camera

I will have 4 guage from the post to the fuse block, and 4 guage to ground. If I'm thinking correctly, the 4 guage for the stereo will have to remain on the battery. Also, does the negative from the Blue Sea connect to the battery negative post or to a chassis or fender ground? Thanks

 

I have used a Blue Sea 12 under the hood on two vehicles and currently have one in my battery box. I think the chassis is the preferred place. I put it on the chassis ground right next to the battery (on the inner fender) if under the hood and have it ran to the frame from my battery box currently.

You also need a circuit breaker in between the fuse block and the battery, I use this one (see link) cuz my power needs are/were never above 100 amps. The circuit breaker also makes it easy to add new things to the block, no need to unhook from the battery, just flip the switch on the circuit breaker. Add up all the things you will connect to it to see what your power needs will be.

Blue Sea also has some good articles on choosing the proper size but I cannot access them here at work. Just google and you should be able to find them. Hope this helps.

$39 Blue Sea Systems 7187 285-Series Circuit Breaker, Surface Mount, 100A

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...locphy=9010331&hvtargid=pla-571733390118&th=1

 

Thanks for the reply. After I posted, knew there was something I was forgetting....that circuit breaker lol. I did see links regarding sizes...I'll check it out. Now to figure out where I want to mount it. I don't think there is enough room on the fender well.

 

Have used the fender well before on a Tacoma and it was awkward getting to the block. Did use velcro and mounted it on the factory fuse block on another vehicle. On my LC I built a mount that was above the battery, worked ok.

On my 4Runner I bought a mount from a fabricator that bolted to the inner fender well that fit the block and the circuit breaker, it was the cleanest and easiest method I have used so far. Have been contemplating getting a switch pro for the Tundra and would probably again mount it to a fabricator made mount of some sort.

 

One of the guys on the forum sent me a link to a mounting plate. Worked out very well.

 

What link is that?

I used a plexiglass to mount mine, but would like to convert to this.

 

Here you go. https://overlandequipped.com/collec...use-block-bracket-for-2007-2021-toyota-tundra

 

That's perfect, thanks for posting the link

 

Anyone see a down side of using this switch (see link) instead of the much more expensive circuit breaker? My thought is that each of the circuits already have fuses so no need to have another “fuse” in line. I just want to make it easier to disconnect the battery when installing new circuits.

CoCsmart Battery Disconnect Switch, 12V-48V Battery Isolator Switch Master Power Cut Off Kill Switch Waterproof Marine Switch for Car RV Boat Truck ATV Vehicles https://a.co/d/c0LgOh0

Just to clarify my use would be between the battery and the additional fuse box in place of the circuit breaker. Will look into using it to disconnect the battery from all connections but need to investigate that more.

 

I don't know about that disconnect switch, so that is above my pay grade, but I have always done it this way(see link). It may be redundant in some ways but the circuit breaker will protect in other ways and it also serves as a battery cut off switch.

This is just a generic video I randomly found and I'm sure there are better.

https://www.google.com/search?q=12v...nt=gws-wiz#kpvalbx=_fOy1YuS5KJHJkPIP9PeP-A467

 

So looking at the full Blue Sea kits that OE sells, they connect power and ground with 8 gauge cables. I am installing mine with 4 gauge. Is that too big? Another question that I have is regarding the light bar harnesses that are going to be wired to it. The harnesses are really long so there is some extra wire that is bundled up. Since I am trying to clean it up, I am looking at shortening them. I need to mount the relays first. It looks like I might have to shorten them on the firewall side and also extend them between the relays and the connections at the lights.

 

Going heavier gauged wire should be fine. Provides less resistance per foot of wiring.

 

Might as well upgrade the Big 3 while you're at it.

 

Isn't there a kit for that one? How much of a difference is there?

 

Yep, here are some options:



https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/ca...ade-kits/big-3-upgrade-kits-top-post-battery/