Brake System Issues on 06’ Tundra

When my brake light first came on I thought changing my brake pads would get it to turn off. My brakes remained squishy with little to no pressure in the brake pedal, allowing it to be pressed to the floor whenever I came to a stop. So I thought to bleed/flush the brakes and that also didn’t work but the light went off. Tried replacing my master cylinder and still no difference. Because my rear brake cylinders were shot so after replacing those and the shoes w/hardware. There still wasn’t any pressure in the brakes. My next thought was the brake booster but after replacing that and flushing the air out again there was a bit for pressure but it’ll still go down to the floor. So I was wondering if anyone encountered anything similar with their tundra. Or any idea what may be the cause for it not being any pressure in the pedal?

 

Brake issues are so common there's an entire thread dedicated to the rear brakes alone, which is probably the cause of about 50% of all braking issues: https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/

So I ask you: Does your parking brake work correctly? If not, your rears aren't adjusted right, and that's probably lending to your shit braking.

When you bled your brakes, did you, at any point, put the pedal to the floor?

Did you use positive pressure on the MC while bleeding?

Did you bleed in the correct order, remembering to bleed the LSPV also? (pass rear, LSPV, driv rear, pass front, driv front)

I doubt the MC was your issue, and I hope you replaced with OEM, we've seen so many dudes here have issues with cheaper brand name and off-brand garbage from the local auto parts store.

 

Does your parking brake work correctly? If not, your rears aren't adjusted right, and that's probably lending to your shit braking.

yes my parking brakes works correctly, so I’m sure it’s not that.

When you bled your brakes, did you, at any point, put the pedal to the floor?

yes every time I bled them I pumped them 10+ times and held them to the floor to release the air.

Did you use positive pressure on the MC while bleeding?

Not too sure what that means, if you don’t mind elaborating please do.

Did you bleed in the correct order, remembering to bleed the LSPV also? (pass rear, LSPV, driv rear, pass front, driv front)

No the mechanic that helped me bleed them did not bleed them in that correct order he started on the front driver side, then front passenger, then rear driver side, then the rear passenger side which had the most air in the line. As far as the LSPV we didn’t know of one so it wasn’t bled at all. How important is it to do it in that order??

 

Have you popped each rear wheel off to confirm you have some drag on the wheel, just to make sure the adjusters are walking down correctly?

That’s a classic mistake that can result in blowing out seals on the MC/booster in these trucks. If you’re noticed rising positive pressure on the master cylinder (i.e. products like the motive bleeder) and instead choose to use the pedal method, throw a 2x4 under the pedal so it can’t go all the way to the floor.

You need a new mechanic.

You almost always bleed from the farthest point in the system to the nearest to evacuate air, this is a general rule of thumb. I’m not bullshitting you on this and I’m attaching screencaps below to that effect - it’s very common practice when you need to push all air out of the lines, and I feel like anyone calling themselves a “mechanic” should know this basic rule.

If you introduced air into the line, it’s critical you bleed the LSPV after doing the rear passenger side. The LSPV is above the axle on the driver’s side of the truck, between the spare tire and driver rear wheel.

Here’s those screen caps - if you want a copy of the Toyota service manual that says the same, I can give you a link, but the bottom line is, whoever this “mechanic” is, you shouldn’t be trusting them IMHO, you’ll have better luck spending $10 on a used Chilton or Haynes manual, or download the field service manual for free.

​

 

imma go ahead and get me one of these kits and do them in the correct order then

 

I do the same thing with some hose and a water bottle. I put a loop in the hose so that you can’t get air back in to the caliper. Bleed them solo no problem. Gravity bleeding is a good way to change from old fluid to new, but will not get the air out reliably. Gotta use pressure to get those bubbles moving.

 

Please email me the manual link. I have a 2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 4.7L with an access cab.

And yeah different mechanic with better expertise popped off the drums and replaced the shoes and hardware correctly in fact I was able to brake better but the pedal would still floor so I’m sure it’s just air in my lines cause bled in the wrong order.

 

I would start at the beginning, not assuming it’s air. Do all the steps for the brake adjustment. Get the rear brakes engaging properly. Bleed the brakes in the proper order with pressure. The FSM is this thread along with lots of other helpful info.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

Watch and learn...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p32i1ndejvg&ab_channel=FayeHadley

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc&ab_channel=ChrisFix