Brake upgrade that doesn't break the bank?

Is the right location to ask?

Going to 35’s and slide in camper, brake upgrade people like that didn’t break the bank?

 

The only way to actually upgrade stopping performance would most likely break the bank. You need to increase the caliper and rotor size for any actual noticeable improvements. Other than that just sticking with OEM is typically going to give you the best bang for you buck as far as brake life goes. If you do really want to upgrade there is at least one company that makes a kit and theres a guy on this forum who had nothing but good things to say about it.
https://alconkits.com/products/spor...-present-front-rear-complete-brake-kit-detail
They have a front only kit as well to save some money.
https://alconkits.com/products/spor...xus-lx570-2016-present-front-brake-kit-detail

 

There’s at least a couple fellas on this forum that are very pleased with our Alcon brakes. Not friendly on the wallet, but man do they perform…

If I can’t spend your money, @reywcms can…

 

These threads blow my mind. The Tundra brakes are the best I've ever experienced in a 1/2 ton truck.

 

Doesn't say much about those previous trucks. Haha

230k miles…the brakes are hands down the weakest link of the truck IMO. Pedal feel is and always has been spongey trash and easiest rotors to warp of all time.

 

Brake pad composition change, stainless steel brake lines, and ATE Brake Fluid - Gold BF1200 (formerly "Super Blue") is often enough for the average user. I'm not sure if there are Hawk HPS pads for the Tundra, but I've used them on my sports car for better braking without dropping a boatload of cash on a Big Brake Kit.

 

Might be worth a look see?
Powerbrake D-Line Rotor & Pad Kit
$810.00

 

Bigger tires and added weight and you want to cheap out on brakes?

 

No upgrade, not $6000 worth

 

Hard to argue your logic here. It’s a huge investment, and certainly at the far end of the spectrum.

It’s not that much different than saying a LSK long travel race system is the most appropriate lift.

Awesome gear, but way more than most folks will be willing to spring for.

There are absolutely more braking options that will be an improvement over OEM, but more budget friendly. Personally, I didn’t mind my OEM brakes till I started towing a travel trailer on a regular basis. That showed their weakness.

 

whst did you upgrade with

 

I’m one of the guys that went with a full Alcon kit. It is amazing, and you wouldn’t believe how well these trucks can stop. Hammer on them as hard as you want, I doubt you’ll ever see any appreciable brake fade…

But, they do come with a hefty price tag. I had a tough time swallowing that part, but I tow a trailer a lot. I live in western Oregon wheee it’s all hills. For my family, it was the right choice. It just stung for a bit.

 

Brake pads are going to give you a better bang for your buck than just about anything else out there. Get something with a better compound and bed them properly. Beyond that, you are spending a lot more for very little return until you jump up to bigger calipers with more pistons.

 

Clearly you haven't been in a bbk tundra lol

 

Stoptech steel lines, Centric rotors, Akebono or Bosch BC1303 pads and Bosch ESI6 fluid.

 

Glad to hear the mention of proper bedding. This seems to be a process that is often ignored or otherwise dismissed as unimportant. Thanks for adding this!

 

In order to be worth it I would have to have cash on hand and it bothering me that it is still here. I think I have been visiting the wrong threads…

 

I justified it when I had to make a somewhat panicked stop going down a hill with my trailer a couple years ago. Wasn’t speeding, wasn’t screwing around. Had one of those moments when you cannot control another’s actions, and my best option was to get stopped. With my feet and hands seemingly the only parts of my body still touching the driver’s area, I noticed that my brakes were not as great as I’d thought. Didn’t take long to get them hot, and they were just about worthless at that point. To be clear, I have a nearly new (2021) trailer and have its brakes and bearings serviced annually. With a combined weight of about 14,000#, I simply needed more brakes.

It’s moments like that where I don’t give two shits what it costs.


Now, if I wasn’t towing, I’d say my brakes are overkill and you could safely(ish) get by with much less. Even with heavy 35-37” tires. You’ll eat pads, but they’ll stop you unless you’re abusive.

 

No towing in my future unless it is bring someone out of the trail

 

I just redid my brakes. I tow a 6500lb boat but the ramp is close by, 4 miles. Does the truck stop, yes. Could it use more stopping power, always. I looked at different options since I have had BBK on other trucks and they work. But geez the stuff for the tundra is pricey. So I just picked up some oem rotors and Hawk LTS pads. I was going to do SS brake lines till I saw a video of a guy that did a test on SS and OEM rubber lines. Hardly if any difference from his test if I recall. I just didn't want to spend and mess around with the brake lines for no performance gains.

 

That’s surprising about the braided SS lines. My pedal is so much firmer after swapping brakes, and nothing else would have made that happen but the lines.

Same type of fluid, but arguably more of it since the calipers are huge. Same master cylinder. Any sponginess associated with the OEM system disappeared, and I can only attribute that to the lines not flexing.

I’ve experienced similar results when replacing rubber lines on bicycles, motorcycles, quads, etc. Even when leaving the pads/rotors alone.

I say that if a fella is working with a limited budget, go with better pads on OEM rotors, then better lines, then better rotors.

And don’t forget to bed the new pads!

 

I wonder how old/new the rubber lines he was comparing were. I do wonder if my 13 year old rubber brake lines would see more improvement being swapped out

 

I would venture to say that old vs new would matter. But new vs SS for normal or the occasional emergency breaking, different story according to his test. I will see if I find it.

 

Ok, found it. Same guy that did a test on brake rotors, slotted vs drilled vs blanks. I got the videos confused as he mentioned in the rotor video that stopping distance wasn't affect much if any buy the type of rotor.

Anyways, from his video you can see how he mentions brake pedal firmness comes from various things and not just brake lines. I use to think the same way back. I did SS lines and bigger rotors but OEM calipers in a 06 Silverado SS. Stopping improved but not so much the brake pedal feel. He also mentions that expansion of the rubber is at a microscopic level. And I tend to agree considering I have seen a rubber brake line cut in half and all the reinforced layers it has. As to what you feel well, you did do a whole BBK upgrade so that has to play a role also. Also age of the lines.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6LJiPDAr9f8

 

I will also add that where I see the SS line shine is in constant extreme braking. When the lines heat up I would say SS shines. But I don't do extreme so OEM and Hawk work for me. I do agree with you Chad pads first and correct bed-in makes a difference.

 

Start easy, get some upgraded pads front and rear. While doing that, make sure everything is in good shape and working properly. Toyota 4 piston calipers have a habit of getting seized pistons as they get older/dirtier/corroded. Make sure the pins are clean as well as the sliders on the rear calipers.

As for pads, avoid anything ceramic or low dust. High performance pads are a compromise, increased friction and heat resistance comes at a cost, that will most likely be more noise, more dust and more rotor wear.

 

One other item worth noting is regular fluid replacement. Without beating a dead horse, brake fluid has got to be the most neglected sauce in a vehicle. Flush and replace in accordance with the recommended intervals and it’s likely that the internal corrosion won’t be as prevalent.

 

Yessir. I probably looked like a complete fool when I had my fancy new brakes put on. I was in an industrial part of town, so it was pretty easy to do some light braking, then some more aggressive braking to get some heat in the rotors and pads. I managed to do this without ever fully stopping for about 15 minutes. Then I had a nice 30 minute drive home to let everything cool before coasting into my rural driveway. Just the lightest brake pedal to get stopped at the house. The rotors really took a nice smooth coating of pad material during that time.

 

https://youtu.be/Yv31dQ1RYHk?si=41fZXBBD6OaiVVnz


For anyone that would like to see what the difference may be with high end brakes. It’s a little long, but not horrible. Becomes pretty obvious that the brakes make a significant difference, especially as heat builds up!

 

I want to see a comparison with OEM brakes and upgraded pads, maybe some SS lines thrown in.
No doubt BBK are great, would have been better if he compared a new OEM brakes or EBC , Hawk vs his old brakes. I wish they made a in-between BBK system for the tundra. I used SSBC back in the day. They offered a bigger rotor for the 06 Silverado SS I had. Some hawk pads and SS lines made a difference. If I did a lot of towing, especially in the mountains, these would be on the to do list.