Cab mount chop .....

So I just bought my pro grill and next will be lift , rims and tires . I want to run 35 x 12.5 x 18 . I want method nv with +18 offset . I had a 2013 double cab before and ran a 295 tire . I did the cab mount chop on it as well but still rubbed at times . I know I want a true 35 because to me nothing looks Better !!! I know I have to do the cab mount chop . I just want to make sure I can do everything possible to avoid rubbing at full lock . If that means a different offset on the rims or whatever it may be !! I love the +18 offset look but if I can pick a different offset and achieve the same look without rubbing that would be great ! All ideas and thoughts would be appreciated !

 

Mines a 2010 with a 3/1 leveling kit. Did the cmc to run 35 x 12.5 r18 on a 0 offset rim and I still rub a tad bit at full lock on both the fender lining and cab mount. I’m running stock UCAs at the moment and I’ve heard of a few guys can get away with it by getting an a good alignment shop to do it. I ended up buying SPC uca’s, got them installed and just waiting to get my alignment done next week. With this then I don’t have to second guess if it’ll work or not. I hope this helps!

 

Mine has 20 offset 3” king extended travel. Spc upper arms. It hit the front bumper liner and skid . I should have got a 1/2” bumper spacer first. The bumper liner was ruined by the time I got home from the tire install. Without front mud flaps the tires don’t hit the cab mounts. On my Taco it did. The offset is the killer not really the height of the tire.

 

What size tires you running ??

 

285/75/18
34.9” tall x 11.5wide on 9” rim Cooper AT3XLT the newer ones

 

Jumping in on this, im just heading to pick up my tundra, i went with 18” method 308 roost’s + 18 offset and 35x12:50 toyo MT’s , and BMC, shop says its still rubbing wont tell me how bad! Pretty pissed off as i was hoping after debating the BMC for a long time it wouldn’t rub!

 

God that truck is sexy

 

I know how you feel because I did it to my 2014 tundra and had the same issue . I guess maybe it’s just something you have to look past to have 35’s under ya . Regardless I am going to do it . Just wish there was a simple answer like offset but I have yet to see anything !!

 

Just do this and don’t worry about any rub. 285/75R18 Toyo AT III or Cooper AT3 XLTs. The 285/75R18 is just as tall and just a tad narrower. The wheels are Method 315 w a +18 offset. I had the SCS Ray 10s prior to that and they are a +25 offset. I can’t tell the difference because it’s millimeters.

 

I ran cooper stt pro 295 on my old truck and it looked good and still had rubbing ....... so you don’t have any rubbing at all ??

 

Can I see some pics of your 20 offset ? Side profile ??

 

No sir. I have the Bilstein 6112 on top setting with Total Chaos UCAs which some say are needed and others say they are not. I got them from a fellow forum member so I went with UCAs. In the rear I have Icon shocks and coachbuilder +3 shackles.

I have run the SCS wheel which is +25 and Cooper tire in 285/75R18 and now have the Method 315 (in gold, only one ever) and the Toyo AT III in 285/75R18.
Both set ups have zero rub. I do not rock crawl so I can’t speak to that scenario, but for mud and dirt and off-road fire roads and park trails both have performed well. I do not drive in snow, so I can’t speak on that either. My best friend has a Raptor on 35x12.5 Nittos and when I took my SCS setup off we measured them compared to his and they were almost identical. As in, a regular eye and tape measure could barely tell a difference.

 

Nice rig !!!

 

That’s awesome !! That’s basically the same setup I want in the end ! I am glad you told me this !!! Sounds like it’s the answer I needed !! So did you do cab mount chop ?

 

No. You don’t need to with those offsets or tire size. That’s the whole reason I went with this setup. There are several wheels with a plus 18 and 25 offset for the Tundra. The Ray 10 is very popular here from SCS. Method has several options also if you want to call them, then can help you out with what models are plus 18 or 25. If you go to tiresize.com. You can plug in all the measurements yourself and see the differences.

 

Awesome man thanks !!! I am a method guy and know what I want already . Hopefully another month or two and I will have pics !!

 

Do you know roughly how far my tire will stick out with that setup ?

 

I’ve got a 3/2 kit on mine. 20x9 wheels with a +1 offset.

I went from 33x12.5x20’s to 35x12.5x20’s on it last weekend.

I get rub on the front and back at full turn. No rub with regular driving so far. I’m scheduled for a BMC and whatever needs to be done to the front on Monday so we’ll see how it turns out.

 

So i got my tundra back from 4wheel parts in oakland, and it rubs bad on the frame, i got it home and unscrewed the front bumper and pushed it forward and inch which has helped But its rubbing bad on half lock on the driver side turning left! I literally took into it with a grinder yesterday, i filled down the shitty plate weld job the did but its still rubbing! I have a 2020 tundra and there seems to be some sort of bolt in the way restricting how much of a chop you can do! Also how do you post pictures on this

 

I have a 2020 as well and it rubs and seems to be in the same place as yours. I'm running 295/65/20 Trail Grapplers with Fuel Mavericks at +25 offset

 

18x9 Methods with +25 offset.
35x12.5 Terra Grapplers
Cheap 3" Readylift.

No BMC and no rubbing at all.

Front plastic and mudflaps are removed.

A good alignment tech will make this work.

 

You guys with rubbing issues have one or both of two things causing the problem.

1) Wrong wheel offset. (+18 to +25 is the sweet spot)

2) Poor alignment.

 

Are your front cams maxed out inward and your rear cams maxed out outward and using SPC UCA’s?
That’s how I worked the magic with my Taco.

 

Nope. They are probably about mid-way.

Once I throw the upper arms on it, they will need to be jacked around to push the lower balljoint forward to get some more caster and keep the tires centered in the opening.

 

You think those are good alignment numbers?!? What am I missing?
On Tacoma’s, that would be:
Caster should be about 3 times that
Camber could be closer to 0
Toe is acceptable
The more you lift, the more caster you need over stock.
Are Tundras stock alignment numbers way different than IFS Taco’s? (I just sold my heavily modified 2nd Gen Taco for my Tundra so still learning the differences. Thanks for your patience!)
I’m about to install a 3” Dobinsons lift with SPC’s and 35’s so this info will help me do my alignment.

 

So if I already have a +25 offset what do I do to get it aligned properly to not rub? I mean what do I say to the 'yota shop or whomever I take it to?

 

You missed the part where I said I still need to get the upper arms on it and re-align with more caster.

Those specs are how it currently sits with the stock upper arms. It drives and steers fine like this but obviously more caster is preferred... hence the pending upper control arm swap.

The small amount of + camber is likely because its a new truck and springs will settle a bit closer to zero.

 

I took mine to the dealer where I bought the truck. They install lift kits there also and the tech knew exactly what was needed.
Once I put my upper control arms on... I will take it back and have him align it again.

 

You’re correct. My apologies.
Do you know what most people try to get their caster to with a ~2.5-3” lift? I’m assuming 3.5+ up to about 4’ish degrees? Thanks!