Commercial Aluminum Caps: Let's See 'Em!

Do you have an ARE DCU? A Leer / Century DCC? A Tradesman (RIP)? A less well known brand of contractor's cap / topper / shell? Whether it's a wedge or standard box, let's use this thread to show off our builds and share our knowledge about how to get the most out of them!

I don't have one yet, but I'm planning to buy one for a 2016 regular cab long bed, and I'm hoping what I learn from ya'll will help me to make the best choices for my needs. Once I've got mine I'll be sure to tell you all about it.

 

Might be of interest to: @Wallygator @ezdog @Xlcaferacer Rex Kramer (can't tag)

Who am I leaving out?

 

Rex was banned

 

Might also be of interest to @Kernal and @Justin Case

 

Still running the ARE DCU on a 19 CM, very happy with it. Not really a build, just the DCU and bedrug. 23" flat roof, front slider, solid side doors, rear window with expanded metal, just a half rear door (wanted to keep tailgate). It sticks up a bit from the cab and could cause garage clearance issues if you are cutting it close. I had a handful of fiberglass over the years and will never go back now that I have had the aluminum with side doors.

They added height and more useable space is nice. Its more square than many fiberglass so the rear door opening is larger. Side door openings are larger due to less frame compared to fiberglass.

For a long bed, I would consider split doors for the sides.

Have not taken it off since installed, but I think it would be easier and store better than a fiberglass.

 

Wondering is any of ya'll have experienced issues as a result of Tundra flex /twist. I've been told over on Expedition Portal that DCUs tend to crack along the welds on even moderate forest road conditions.

 

Been reading more about the reasons Toyota uses a c-channel frame instead of fully boxed, but also looking at how bed flex can put pressure on the tailgate. I can definitely see how that pressure could damage double barn doors (and more) on a commercial cap, so thinking about getting a pair of Total Chaos Bed Stiffeners. Anyone here use them?

 

There are many who use them and I can definitely see the need. I don't because I have a removable rear load support bar over the tailgate that pins directly to my custom DIY bedrails that are anchored in stake pockets and to my headache rack. The whole assembly strengthens/stiffens the bed in multiple directions. I would love a topper, but not giving up my rollover protection to get one. Got a DIY custom quick up/down version in the works. It takes years and tens of thousands of dollars to build out these trucks to my satisfaction.

 

This is the standard height dcu, 23”. Its certainly got its draw backs. I still am not really happy with the overall build quality. The tailgate flange was well over a 1/2” too long with no weather stripping installed from the factory. Welds are not great, all mig spool gun. It sticks out well past the cab and has a fair amount of wind noise. Tons of gaps around the rear hatch that allowed dust to get in. I threw a dual direction dog box vent in for positive pressure and it helped a ton. It’s still not perfect but it’s far better than it was.
All doors open almost too far if you’re under 6’ tall. And your truck is lifted on 35s. I’m 6’3 and put limiting straps on 2 of the 3 doors.
It also came in scratched from shipping and handling but I talked the dealer down on the cost.
I wish I had gone with another brand to be honest. Leer makes an aluminum commercial unit that looks a little more sleek and has much better build options. Look into that.

 

I found mine used, the brand name is Swiss. I found it outside Akron, Ohio for sale. It was used.

 

Ordered my ARE DCU a few weeks ago and should be getting it mounted the end of this month. I'm planning to live in and out of it for most of the year(s) ahead, so it'll be 36" high (to give me enough headroom to comfortably sit up straight) and it'll also have:

• Straight (vertical) side walls and radius (rounded) front
• Double full back doors with windows
• Vented Windoors on both sides
• Radius three panel sliding front window
• Roof tracks (to mount a Yakima rack)
• Backup camera with wiring harness

Still researching a lot of details of the interior build, but so far I'm planning to add:

• Butyl sound dampening mats
• Thermal wall and ceiling insulation (weighing the pros/cons of polyiso, XPS, Thinsulate, maybe along with Low E)
• 1/4" cedar paneling (possibly with foam underlayment or mylar tape along furring strips to prevent squeaking)
• Insulated window covers (Thinsulate + Low E)
• XPS and plywood flooring
• Vent fan (intake and exhaust)
• Top loading 12V compressor fridge
• Sink with 7 gal fresh and gray water tanks (maybe an electric pump)
• Electric heater (which I'll use sparingly and will help control moisture)
• Batteries charging off solar /alternator to power this gear along with lighting and charging ports
• 2' wide sofa that pulls out to 4' wide bed with storage underneath

That's far from a complete list but covers the highest priorities. I expect to spend most of my time in the warm, dry lands of the western US but do also hope to get up as far as Alaska and down through Mexico to Central America and perhaps beyond at some point down the road, mostly solo but sometimes with a companion. I ordered four extra side wall gussets on the cap (which is what they do for search and rescue vehicles) to deal with the frame twist /flex and I'm planning to install a set of Total Chaos bed stiffeners to minimize the forces on those rear doors. I'm also considering upgrading the suspension and doing the 36 gallon fuel tank (there's one at a nearby junkyard). I've ordered a set of RCI skids (engine and trans) and cat guards, but I've had trouble finding fully bolt-on sliders that will fit my RCLB truck (WKOR's fit but require drilling into the frame) so I'm looking for a fabricator in the region (within a day's drive of western North Carolina) to build a custom set.

Curious to hear about ya'lls experiences with any of the above, particularly with effectively insulating these aluminum caps!

 

I wonder if Budbuilt can help you with your sliders?

https://budbuilt.com/

 

Looking forward to your build!

 

Someone over on Expedition Portal recommended Bud Built too. Sent them an email on Friday. Will update ya'll one place or the other when I hear back.

 

I’ve got bud built skids on my 18 DC. They’re made In Western NC, cancel the order on those rci skids and order theirs. Hard to beat how tough these things are and you could just go pick them up. They make nice stuff.
There’s also a fabricator in tamasee SC a couple hours from ya that makes a ton of sliders, bumpers, etc. I probably would have gone with his if I had not found some WKOR sliders for cheap.

https://www.jccustomsmetalfab.com/

 

Considered that but I got the RCI skids 20% off so even without the need for shipping, the Bud Built skids would cost about $550 more for the same 1/4" aluminum and minus the free cat guards I'm getting from RCI. Looks like they do make good stuff though so it's good to hear you seconding the recommendation.

Thanks for the tip on JC Customs too. Emailing them now.