Common 2007 Problems - “high mileage”?

New to the forum! I’m looking at purchasing a 2007 5.7L Tundra with 193k miles and curious as to some of the key problems or (more importantly) things to check on the specific truck itself. Coming off of a horrible experience with an F150 (new transmission and timing chain at 160k) so I’m a bit apprehensive about any older, high mileage rig.

 

If you have concerns about older high mileage rigs I’d look for one that isn’t 17 years old with 193k miles on it. That’s fairly worn…

 

Should’ve clarified! I’m not concerned about high mileage or older vehicles - just unfamiliar with this generations of Tundras and associates issues. Unfortunately, budgets can only stretch so far or I would be looking for something a bit

I have a 1999 Pathfinder and my partner has had several First Gen. Tundras and 4Runners all at 200k miles and above.

 

I’m no mechanic but I have read on this forum to check the frame & the rest of the undercarriage for rust.

 

Correct, the first thing I’d check is the frame and a copy of all the maintenance records. Also get a copy of the CarFax report. Check to see if all the body panel colors match. CarFax doesn’t always report correctly on accidents and maintenance records. If it has the smaller V8, double check to see when the last time the timing belt was replaced. It never hurts to have an independent mechanic look it over, it may cost you around $100 or so, but could possibly save you thousands in the long run. Good Luck!

 

Secondary air injection issues, I think it's more 2010 onward, I may be wrong, but I haven't had any issue with mine. Brakes, ensure they're operating correctly. Timing chain tensioner sounds is louder when cold then quiets down when it warms up. Starter 5.7 is a bitch to get to, but not too hard, average lifetime from what I've seen is 210k, some may be more some early. Leaking out of the o-ring tail section of the transmission. Transmission service interval if any.

 

If it runs and drives fine, sounds fine, doesn't leak, and is rust free I would have no issue getting it. Check all the switches, 4wd, low range, etc. full throttle pull during the test drive to make sure it's fully operating correct. If there's something majorly wrong it'll be obvious, otherwise they're pretty bullet proof. Then change all the fluids (including atf) when you get home.

I bought my 2008 with 180k on it a few years ago, only issue was my starter went out at 215k, otherwise just routine maintenance.

 

I drive a 2007 with 225k miles on it.

If I got another I would be looking for the following.

• Rust - impossible to fix and can make other repairs harder if fasteners are rusted on
• Paint - A bad paint job is almost impossible to fix. And defiantly not cheap.
• Interior - Most everything inside the cab can be swapped out if it's worn (seats, steering wheel, headliner, stereo) but I'd consider how much you're willing to do before you buy something with a subpar interior

Everything else is subject to normal truck wear and tear, but can be replaced if needed. Parts are readily available for these trucks.

 

This is where I was three years ago.... took a specific amount of cash from my retirement severance and started shopping. Lots of run out trucks out there! A strategy I finally employed was to look at Autotrader ads from the larger dealers and note the phrase "single owner trade in." That gave me a little more confidence the vehicle had been reasonably well maintained (CarFax details can be used to confirm that.)

Bought my '07 in September 2020 with 165K. I did have to replace the starter last year at 190K. I also have the secondary air sensor issue when the weather changes (maybe 6 - 8 times a year) but have chosen the battery disconnect/re-set workaround rather than replace the sensor.

 

Buying from private seller or car dealer? On high mileage engines, I always want to know frequency of motor oil, diff, and ATF changes. Quiz the seller if private. If truck was used for towing, quiz how often the ATF was changed. Check for leaks, including the diff. Put a code reader and check for cleared codes.

 

I bought mine off a lot with 213,000 on it last August. Went to Denver from Pa to get it (wanted rust free). Drove it home without a hitch. Did a FULL service on it when I got it back here. Now with 235,000 on it, it runs better and smoother than my previous 2013 Silverado. Buy it, do the maintenance and you should be good to go. JMO though.

 

I would go 1 step beyond a code reader and get a decent scan tool you can get good ones on Amazon for $300-400 that can read live data and are bidirectional, there are a few budget ones for $99

 

Check the valley pan for a coolant leak.

 

I just recently bought a 2007 RCSB with the 4.7L. I looked for a few weeks before I found the one I purchased. It has 110k miles, the thing that scared me was the fact it had 6 previous owners but none really drove that much. It is a PA truck so there was a little superficial rust, thats just part of the game for living in the NE. I was a little excited when I was at the dealership and missed that there was three holes in the bed under a drop in bedliner so that was a little bit of a bummer. I paid 15.5 for it. I have since purchased a new bed, rock warrior front bumper and grille that are my color code. I will have to get the bed resprayed since I found a very nice silver one at the recyclers. All in all still very happy with my purchase. After somedigging I noticed that the timing belt was done @80k miles, both air injection pumps were replaced and it has all new brakes front and rear. And its a RCSB…Look over the exhaust manifolds, skid pan for excess oil and coolant, rear main seal area for oil. My 2015 5.7L was a monster, miss that truck and wish I had kept it.

 

I have a 2007 DC 4.7L which has been pretty much trouble free bought it when it had 90k miles presently has 265k. As far as maintenance it’s been mostly fluid changes, timing belt and plugs every 100k miles. The only component that has failed was the alternator at 220k miles and the blend door needs to be replaced but is a PITA to do so presently dealing with it the air vents are stuck in the defrost position

The SAIS failed at 135k miles got replaced under warranty than failed again around 250 k miles at that point I bypassed using a Hewitt Gen 2 system which was successful

 

I have a 2007 Single Cab Short Bed that has the 5.7 engine with 191K on it that I brought in 2018 it has and still is a fantastic Running truck that has been well cared for runs just awesome today only brought it because the price was right (well yeah I missed a Tundra I had before too I guess).