Complete 2016 Tundra SR Double Cab Build Thread

Hey Folks,

First I want to give a shout out to @jimg. He gave me a load of advice to help guide me on some of the better bang for the buck gear out there. His time is/was much appreciated!

As a way to give back to the community that has given me a ton of great information, I am going to do a full build thread. My truck is a bit unique/rare in that it is one of the few models that are very basic. For example, this truck does not even have the factory amp under the passenger seat. This means my current system is 100% powered by the factory NON-JBL Head Unit! Very few trucks out there lack any amp at all. This means that I will need to re-wire the entire system top to bottom! We will be doing this build in potentially 2 stages. Stage 1 will hit all the essentials, and stage 2, if necessary will come after. If all goes well and it sounds satisfactory, there may not be a stage 2...we shall see!

Here is a thread I started that gives some background into what I am starting with
https://www.tundras.com/threads/2016-w-out-jbl-what-am-i-dealing-with-here.139698/
Here is a couple pics from that thread to give you an idea:


I will add more pictures to this thread to show the speakers and wiring as I start the install.

Stage 1: Head Unit Replacement, 2x 8" Subs, Sub Amp, 2x Tweeters

Some have suggested that I keep the HU in place but I have made the decision that because I am rewiring everything anyway, and most are unhappy with the factory HU it had to be replaced. If you follow the link above, you will notice this is the BASE HU. It does not include JBL, nor does it include XM Radio etc. Given the fact that the wiring was hacked to #*!@ and this is clearly the base level HU that Toyota offers, I think I had no choice but to start at the beginning and get a new HU! I think I could try to polish a turd, but by adding better speakers/amp etc, at the end of the day if the signal coming out of the deck is a turd, it will always be a turd....

Items Ordered For Stage 1: (Costs include Tax and shipping)

• T'eyes CC3 2k 64gb - $460
• 2x Dayton RSS210HO-4 ohm 8inch Subwoofers - $300 (I will be building the sub box) Wired in parallel for 2 ohm
• 100ft Sky High 16 AWG Speaker Wire - $48
• 25ft Sky High 4 AWG Power Cable (Red) - $66
• CT-1500.1D - 1500w Sub Amplifier - $299
• CT 2 - 60 Watts RMS Multi Mounting 28mm Silk Dome Tweeters - $79
• 250 Amp ANL - $6.50

The plan for Stage 1 is to hook up the subs, and tweeters and see how the system sounds. I anticipate its going to be loads better than stock, but it is still highly likely to need new door speakers and an Amp to run the tweeters/door speakers. Assuming that is the case, those will be done in stage 2!

Update: 3/25: I forgot about sound deadening! I have not ordered any sound deadening, but I do plan to add that to the list. I will probably plan that at the same time I crack open the door panels, which I will need to do as part of Stage 1 to run the new speaker wires.

 

Congrats on stage 1. I'm sure once you get everything installed you'll get bit by the audio bug and want to do stage 2 lol. CT Sounds makes a variety of other speakers and amps that would nicely fill out your system if you decide to stay within the same brand. I'm sure you're aware but make sure to set your gains properly for your subs as you'll be feeding them a little extra juice per driver. If you do decide to go stage 2, one thing to keep in mind is that if you're not going to run anything off the head unit, you'll want a 6-ch amp for the tweeters, door woofers, and presumably coaxials in the rear. Other option would be to power your tweeters off your new Teyes CC3, and get a 4 channel for your doors. Might take a little time to get everything tuned properly, but definitely doable.

 

Your thinking is directly in line with the options I am considering .

Regarding the setting/tuning the Gains, I have actually purchased an Oscilloscope so I can measure distortion and set them appropriately. There is a great thread here that walks through that process. This method will also tell you the max volume you can run off your HU before your HU starts to send a distorted signal. It would be nice (or maybe it exists and I just dont know about it?) if you could limit your HU to the max volume before distortion starts, similar to how you set the gain on your amp.

I have never set the gains before before using this method. I always did it by ear, probably similar to most folks, but I am confident I can do it . I may actually test out the stock deck just to see how it compares.

 

I've always used my ears as well but since my new system will eventually have a DSP, I have an o-scope and RTA on my parts list as well. I've watched a handful of videos on the use of both, but I prefer write-ups like that for when I'm actually doing the process as I find it easier for my comprehension to read and do, rather than watch/listen then do. Thanks for the link I hadn't read that yet.

CT Sounds doesn't make a 6 ch in the CT line, but they do make one in the AT line. All of the CT speakers have high power handling so it might be easiest to stay within brand for an amp. I've not had any experience with CT Sounds but their specs are impressive across the board. I'm interested to see how the tweeters sound once installed, and/or woofers if you go that route.

 

The massive ct2 28mm tweeters are good to go

Several people on car stereo forums have used them in budget SQ systems

 

I personally dont care if the secondary amp is the same brand or not honestly. When/if I am in the market for a 4/6 channel amp to run those speakers, I will just buy whatever is best bang for the buck. I am 45 years old and frankly dont give much of a F what people think. This is for me . I dont plan to pull out my amp racks to show my buddies nor do I plan to enter any audio competitions lol. Im just after a solid system, that sounds good and doesnt look hacked together. That said, I will try to do a "clean" install, and spend my money on the things that make the most difference. I think the things I have bought for stage 1 will do exactly that . I am really looking forward to the new HU. That is going to make be a MASSIVE upgrade over what I have now!

 

The reviews on these tweeters are pretty impressive
https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B00NBC25UM

 

It’s like Christmas came early!!!

Still waiting on the tweeters and HU.

 

Nice those dayton subs and the ct amp look slick! I’m guessing the HU will take a little longer since it’s coming international? I forgot to ask, are you planning to install your new tweeters in the dash corners, flush mount in your existing sail panels, or buy the factory jbl sail panels? I can grab a link to the jbl panels if you go that route, they’re about $50 shipped for the pair if I remember correctly. If you’re going dash corners, you can get a pair of cheap abs adapters from Amazon or Metra makes them (just have to cut your own holes) that you can get from Crutchfield.

 

My plan for the tweeters is to put them in place of the "tweeters" in the dash. Those things are total trash and sound terrible. If I was to put them in the sails, I would probably just cut holes in the stock sails. I believe the tweeters come with a plastic trim piece if you want to do that.

Yeah, the Head Unit is going to take a bit. It has been shippped already, but its coming from China, so its likely going to take at least 2 more weeks to get here. I ordered it almost a week ago, so 3 weeks total seems about right.

My next move is probably to start building the Sub box. Thats going to be at least a couple days of work to do that seeing Im not just going to build a standard square box. I am going to put them under the rear seat, the wide side behind the driver. Its going to be a single sealed box with 1 divider. Because the area under the seat is not rectangular, the shape is going to be a wedge shaped box, with the large side on the front and tapered back as it goes under the seat, roughly following the angle of the seat (which is angled down, front to back). I believe I measured it to be about 9" from the floor at the front of the seat, and about 5" to the floor about 1/2 to 3/4 the way under the seat. These dimensions equal the exact internal volume needed (.8sqft). Speakers facing forward, not down like in the picture. 9" high in front, 28" wide, 11" deep front to back, and tapered from 9" to 5" tall in the rear. Keep in mind the drawing is not to scale.

 

Nice! What box modeler are you using?

For the dash corners, the bracket’s are Metra 82-4201, link here: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120824201/Metra-82-4201-Tweeter-Mounting-Brackets.html?tp=2824

Have to drill your own holes, there’s also some other options on Amazon that come pre-drilled, just be sure to find your correct mounting diameter for your new tweeters:

$14 RED WOLF Tweeter Speaker Adapter Spacer Rings 1.5" Cutout for Select Toyota Tacoma 4Runner 2005-2023, Subaru WRX Forester 2015-2022 Replace Center Dashboard Audio Install Front Dash

https://www.amazon.com/RED-WOLF-Das...dra+dash+corner+tweeter+bracket,aps,95&sr=8-3

 

Unrelated to the Audio

Good call on the brackets. I do need to pick up one or make my own. Probably a pretty easy thing to make actually.

Regarding the box designer, I used a couple different ones, but this one seemed to work best for what I needed. https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

 

Although unrelated to the audio install, I did just get my truck back from the local Toyota Dealer. They had Factory Leather installed. Love it! When I bought this truck a month or so ago it had pretty dingy seats. Clearly lots of spills and kiddos in the back. It is so much nicer inside now