Coolant change - do I need to open the drain valves on the side of the engine?

I am at 60k miles and am planning to do a complete coolant flush / change as I do not know if it has ever been done.

Is it necessary to open up the petcock drain valves on the side of the engine? Is there an easier way to do a flush and replace all the coolant? IF I need to open these up and drain that way can it be done without taking the wheels off?

It was expensive but I ordered this.


Here is the video where he drains the coolant from the block

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OivwKhMyLxs

 

I would like to know this as well

 

Not IMO. When I bought my truck new, after the 3rd year I decided to perform a coolant change and loosen the brass plugs on the sides of rhe block. Block was cold but they wouldn't budge. Unfortunately in the process I twisted off the top of the plug. Thankfully it never leaked and since then I just drain the radiator and refill twice by driving for a week, about 350 miles, before I repeat so I can dilute the remainder in the block after its mixed. Might not be the best method but it works for me and the dealer tells me they ignore the block plugs because they don't always come free.

I've been driving my truck for 20 years and change the coolant every 30k miles as recommended.

 

so pretty much just drain the radiator, fill accordingly, start the motor, fill accordingly?

 

After the trouble I had with the frozen front diff. drain plug I am really hesitant and gun shy to try and loosen a brass engine drain plug. I think I will just drain and fill it a couple times with distilled water before a final fill with new coolant.

 

I usually fill it before and not after I start the motor. Basically I use two 5 gallon buckets and a fill funnel. One for draining and the other bucket for the 50/50 mix which equals what I've drained. Oh, and always open the cap before pulling the plug or it'll get everywhere from glugging out.

 

I think I’ll try pulling the bottom hose off get all of what’s in the system after the thermostat. Thanks for the advice on brass drain plugs won’t touch em for sure now. My truck just hit 30k I’ll grab 3 gallons of the Toyota 50/50 and fill it up all the way and fill rest accordingly as thermostat opens. Then a month out drain it and do it again. Idk ‍♂️ If there’s a better way I’m all ears guys. Thank you

 

I did my truck this past summer. I did loosen the brass drains. One of them let a decent bit of coolant out, the other not so much.

FWIW, I was surprised at how clean my coolant looked. I had 105k on it when I did it. As I recall, 3 gallons should get you there.

 

Thank you that’s helpful ..

 

How about tapping a coolant line with a t connector with a hose fitting? Clamp the hose on and let the water flush everything out your lower radiator hose.

 

I had no issue using the block drains. Both sides let out a 2-3 quarts of coolant.

 

Open the drains on the engine. It's not hard. Don't have to remove the wheels. You'll need a long extension for the socket and maybe a u-joint, I really done remember for sure. But opening those drains in the only way you're going to get all the old coolant out. I refilled with premixed 50/50 coolant.

 

Wasn't the 30k recommendation for old school Toyota red coolant. I know new corollas (which use the same pink coolant) call for coolant change after 100k then every 50k after. I understand wanting to keep things clean but every 30k seems like a bit much especially if the truck isn't very old.

 

Warm the engine up completely (or right after you come in from the driving the truck). Drain at the bottom of the radiator. Refill with distilled water. Run engine with heater turned on to hot and the fan turned up. Let circulate for a couple of minutes. Drain from the bottom of the radiator. Refill with your favorite PINK. Turn engine on and monitor your coolant level (don't space out on the overflow tank). Are you super anal? Can do the distilled water sequence a 2nd or 3rd time.

I really like the OEM Tools No Spill Coolant Funnel Kit for the refilling operation. Works flawlessly.

$21 OEMTOOLS No-Spill Coolant Funnel Kit, 15 Piece Fluid and Oil Funnel Set, Allows Access To Hard-To-Reach Radiators

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-87009-No-Spill-Coolant-Filling/dp/B01A2CQSU6

 

Above method will result in diluted coolant. Drain radiator and engine drains, then refill.

 

If you do this, you’ve diluted your new coolant by quite a bit compromising both cooling and freeze protection. Flushing with distilled water is fine, but drain completely from radiator and engine before putting in your new coolant.

 

If I crack both engine block drain valves and drain the spigot on the radiator, will that drain 100% of the coolant thats in the system? or is there still some hiding in there after

 

Maybe not quite 100%, but as much as you're going to get. Some will probably linger in the heater core, but you don't need to fret over what little is left.

 

What diameter hose do I need to fit on the drains? Thanks!

 

If I recall, 1/4" ID.

 

That’s how me and pops did it on the 64 dart. Many moons ago.

 

No. Sadly no one but Toyota really knows exactly how much is left in there. For those of us doing it properly, it doesn’t matter, just like it doesn’t matter if you get every drop of oil out. Not knowing should absolutely scare you from the water flush method mentioned above, especially if you live in a cold climate.

 

I used the drain valve on the radiator and the two on the block. The passenger side drained much more than the drivers side.

 

Does anyone know the size of the hose needed to fit on the block drains?

 

Guessing 3/8 ID but honestly I just opened them and let them pour into a bucket.

 

5/16 ID fits rad and block drains

 

What I did at 100k was disconnect coolant hoses at top and bottom of radiator, heater core, and at transmission cooler underneath the truck and take a ridgid small type blower and blow everything out that did not drain to avoid leaking brass fittings on engine. See picture if it uploaded or something similar. It was a much easier task to me. Hope this helps! I am at 128k and going great no signs of needing water pump yet. I am an outside salesman and drive quite a bit. Trd pro so the skid plate sucks to take off to do this lol.