Custom Car Audio

New to posting on the forum but interested in seeing what nice Car Audio/ Sound System Setups are out there in the Tundras if you guys/gals are willing to share.

I have (2) Deaf Bonce 3012-R in a custom box. Also running (2) synergy 3500s to the subs and a Synergy 80.4 to (4) Deaf Bonce Arnold 6.5s in the doors with an 80Ah headway lithium bank in the bed and a Northstar AGM battery under the hood. Below I’ll drop a couple pictures.

 

I hope that’s a good emoji? lol

 

I would love to hear that in person!! Holy Cow!!! Looks like a mess of power! Very NICE!!!

Did you do that yourself?

 

Thanks man!

And absolutely not lol. I had a shop out here in Virginia Beach build it for me.

 

this takes me back to the late 90's.

Man, I wish we had excursion like those subs do. each one of those have the air movement of 4 of my old 12 fosgate pro 12's.

jealous.

we thought 1k watts was the bomb....

 

Dope man! I was born in 92 lol but the way I see it, if it’s 1k or 10k I love it! Feels pretty good to see that mirror shake a little bit lol.

 

how many watts to the doors and to the subs? it look like a ton to the subs lol

I have a Kenwood 1057, Focal K2s in front doors, Focal Flax in rear doors and 2 JL 12s. all are powered by a JL900/5 amp. 75 to each door and 300 to each sub. I cant imagine more bass but something tells me yours may be just a tad bit more

 

Im running a Synergy Audio WFO 8.4 on the door speakers. The doors are AP-M61AE (6.5)by Deaf Bonce, I just ordered the 8” neo versions to replace all 4 doors.

But I’m sending maybe 100-150 watts to each door. And the subs are getting 2600 watts each from the (2) Synergy 3.1D.

By the way that head unit looks super clean, is that a 10” display?

 

That seems more like breaking the window than shaking it lol. yes it is a 10.1 - I love it so far

 

I don't have a system in my tundra yet but I've got a little one in my 4runner. 2 competition 12's in a custom box with 8,000 watts going to them and 1000 watts going to each door with 7" component speakers. I blew out my rear window breaking in the system many years ago. I've got a couple of caps and an extra lithium battery to handle it, my factory battery is under enough stress with the amount of lights on my 4runner.

 

SICK!
I love seeing an "all in" system. Any reason they upfired the subs instead of down firing them? (Besides just looking at them). I've designed many competition systems and down-firing subs always gave more accurate output without the cone noise 2ft from your ear. Just my experience, and opinion. Nothing wrong with what they did, but you are relying on your very thin roof to be the opposition baffle (you will lose tremendous output compared to using the floor of the truck to couple the energy and keep it in the cab).
I also judged comps too, so sorry if it seems I'm picking on it, just curious more than anything what the thought process was?

Regardless... I Love the efforts!
The amp racks and capacitor block set-ups are badass. Kudos to you for going balls deep!

 

No picking at all. I’m actually glad you posted because I didn’t know about the accuracy part of down-firing subs.

I honestly just let them come up with the design as my truck is a daily so wasn’t really thinking too much into it.

I’ve just ordered (2) DC Audio Elite 15s a week ago to replace my 12s. Looking to keep them on the same amps for the time being but removing the (40) seat of the rear to fit them. (I was told DC are small box subs but I’ve never owned any to really know) so any help you’re willing to give I’m willing to be receptive of!

 

SUPER DOPE!

 

My "system" is nowhere near as cool as his, but the sub in my Sequoia is just pointed at the side in the back, would you recommend setting it up for downfire? It does have "legs" so I can easily set it up that way.

 

In a corner is ideal. It creates a single wave form.
When the subs are facing up in the middle of the truck like the OP, the waveform goes up and spits omni-directionally creating multiple waves. The roof is essentially smooth therefore there's no predicting where in the truck the soundwaves will phase in or out with the other speakers. Down firing with the openings on the side will create more evenly distributed bass due to absorption of the secondary waves and therefore less phase interference. All this means is: down-firing is better than up-firing for Deep, Clean, and Accurate Bass. Up-firing may yield a higher SPL in a test, but not without higher noise levels and overall less desirable when compared to other design techniques.
The whole science is to try and unify the multiple subs into a singular output wave by putting them as close together as possible and mounting them in a fashion that helps create that effect within a given construct (truck interior).
FYI
I am only referring to sealed enclosures.
Don't get me wrong.
The OP's system is AWESOME!!!!

 

Right on!

 

So just for my knowledge, I saw you referenced sealed enclosure in the previous post. Does the subs facing the roof of the vehicle matter as far as the accuracy if my port is facing the floor or am I overthinking this? Lol

My box is actually raised off the floor and ported toward the floor. Just looking for suggestions in going forward with the new box I’ll have built.

 

If it is actually a ported enclosure not just a sealed box off the floor... then that answers the question of why they faced the subs up!!!
The ports make more noise (think wind noise from fast moving air through the ports) than the cone noise from the front of the woofer. This would explain the design. Ported boxes done well are awesome, but poorly designed, can be horrible.
Don't freak out!
How does it sound to you?

 

Makes perfect sense! I realized I left out some important information when I saw you say “sealed”. I got you now though, understood!

 

2 15's in a double cab with 2 back seats done by tech12volt

 

Man this is dope!!! I like to put that rear window down sometimes though. Lol

 

Uh, I’ve got a thin 12 under the back seat and some JL components in my doors. Can I hang out with you guys?

 

I have two twelves behind the back seat in a box built for them and they make more than enough sound. I would love to hear two 15s?? along with everything else that those would be matched to?

 

10.000 watts???

 

Yes sir! I can cruise the highway with all the windows down and not hear the roar of wind or tires. I can also let my wife know I'm a block away from home.

 

I hate to be that guy but I don’t believe this story one bit. Especially since the subs are Rockville subs. What amps are you running and what size alternator? Only thing my system has done it’s cracked my windshield up and down and left to right. My system consist of two custom 15s built by robot Underground using sundown nsv3 15 motors, two CAB-22 amps, CAB M4 amp for the doors speakers, DS18 Pro XBM8” pro audio in doors, American Bass 3 way active electronic crossover, Sony Hu, big 3 with 3 extra grounds added, a bank of 4 super caps and a 45ah headway lithium bank which consist of 32 individual cells. Stock alternator with diode installed so I stay at 14.3-14.8v

 

I have a green machine alternator with the big 3 on it, it was over priced for the power it puts out but I got a deal on it. I have 2 8000w monoblock amps running the subs and a 5000w/4 for the Rockford Fosgates in the doors. I have the lithium batteries that have held up pretty well they are made by extreme and I have 2 Rockville caps that seem to be working well as well. The installer told me the caps were needed since the batteries will take most of the punch from the subs but because I already purchased them I just had him install them. I have no way of testing actual output of the system but it's definitely more then enough for me.

 

What 8000w amps do you have? And for the doors you mean 500.4 not 5000.4 correct? I’m just trying to figure out what power you have to make the back window blow out

 

And are you running super caps or capacitors? There’s a huge difference between the two