CV axle play causing 4WD groan?

Installed a Napa CV a few months ago and there was a gap on the differential side. I was concerned about it but tried to reseat the axle multiple times and ended up with the same gap. The snap ring was locked in and it drives good in 2WD. I feel I do hear a little rotational noise in 2WD but it’s not too noticeable. Anyway I put it in 4WD while driving through a snow storm recently and that rotational noise seemed to be 10x worse and louder. Like a groan, almost grinding, nasty metal sound that also seemed to be rotational. Turning into a parking spot it seemed like it might be in 3WD as opposed to 4. No leaks at the diff and I changed the fluid when I did the CV. I decided I’m going to rip it all apart again as I need to replace my lower control arm bushings and want to give the ECGS bushing a shot to see if that eliminates the play and possible noise. I’m thinking of getting an OEM reman CV instead did the Napa this time. My questions are is this much play in CV normal? Is this most likely the cause of the noise I’m hearing in 4WD?
Posted a video of the cv axle play below:

https://youtu.be/1qY80d3IrYk?feature=shared

 

A little bit of gap on the differential side is completely normal as long as the c-clips are in all the way. If you grab onto the axle shaft and move it laterally side to side, there should be a tiny bit of play. If you try to move it up and down, there should not be any play.

How does it compare to the other side? Your movement does not look normal and is a lot more than mine, and I see play at the housing which makes me think it's at the needle bearing. Usually the noise goes away in 4-Hi, but I'd start there.

Any binding when you're turning in the snow, or notice any chunks of metal when you drained the diff?

 

Thanks for the reply. I felt there was binding when turning at almost full lock into parking spots in 4WD only. The passenger side is OEM and don’t not have as much play. Definitely has side to side play. When I originally swapped the CV along with tie rod ends and new shocks and springs. Barely any shavings were on the plug. Look like it hadn’t been changed it a very long time. I’ve only owned the vehicle for 6 months. I had read that the noise normally goes away in 4WD so that’s why I was a little confused as to why it got extremely worse. When I tear in to the front end I just wanted to make sure I only have to do it one more time for a long time so I was curious if there was any other likely culprits.

 

Pretty sure you're missing the dust cover that would cover up the seal. Is it on the old axle? How's the oil in the diff? Full?

I've done the the ECGS bushing and still have a little play, but I agree that yours looks a bit excessive.

 

That axle is only a few months old actually I just live right by the beach so any metal rusts very quickly. I had a dust shield but don’t think it was lining up when trying to get the Napa axle in. I still have it though. Fluid was refilled at that time too and hasn’t leaked since. I’m gonna start with the ECGS and try a reman OEM CV along with a different diff fluid.

 

Gotcha. There's really only one way it goes on, take a look below. If you live right by the beach then having that dust cover on is only going to help your cause.

 

I don't remember who gave me the part number, maybe it was you, but it's 90080-30028 for the inner dust seal. I actually need to order one myself.

 

I have NAPA CV's that worked great... for 30,000 miles, now my driver's side is trashed and have have to tear the whole thing apart again. I definitely don't have the gap or the play that you do, especially on the differential side, but I have a 2001, if that makes any difference. Where can you purchase reman OEM CV's?

 

I can't remember if they stopped offering the reman'd altogether, as there was a significant factory backorder on them, but 434300C01084 is the reman part #. Depends where you live, but I've always had the best luck with the Lithia Toyota out of Billings, MT or Toyota of Gladstone in OR.

@shifty` I'll see if I have another dust seal laying around and let you know.

 

Thanks for the assistance guys. I did drain and refill the front diff and there was some metal shavings but they were very fine. From what I’ve read that’s pretty standard. I have ordered the ecgs bushing, two reman Toyota CV axles (Lakeland Toyota 88 bucks each) and a dust shield. Once everything arrives I’ll tackle the project, test the 4WD and report back my findings.

 

@shifty` thought these were NLA

 

Remans are supposedly going the way of the dodo. Lakeland Toyota (aka Toyota Parts Overstock) told me they ordered two and only received one (or similar excuse), so they could only ship the one they had on-hand and partial-refund, or ship nothing and a full refund. I had 'em ship it, it arrived with damaged dust seal, so they comp'd the whole thing. I bought a dust seal during the last Toyota sale, I am hoping to get that tapped on later this month and have a full spare on-hand.

 

Damn. Hopefully I get lucky. I saw they weren’t available on most other Toyota parts stores I tend to go through. I’ll update if/when they arrive.

 

Some people have been having luck. Especially with local ordering thru nearby dealership, and finding dealers who have old stock.

 

Well I just got the email confirming the longer available. I’ll try local and keep looking for now!

 

Confirmed by McGeorge Toyota that there are none available in this country.

 

Yeah, the wait time for online orders had been between 2-12 weeks based on other people's input and what dealerships were telling me.

You can still buy new, it just costs 4x more.

 

Are new ones still available?

 

Did you completely miss my last sentence there?

 

Lakeland's system will take your order, regardless of whether they have inventory or not. All other Toyota parts sites show the p/n as "discontinued". Best bet is to call Lakeland directly and ask if they have parts in the pipeline, or not.

 

Sorry I misspoke above and will edit. I ordered mine from Toyota Parts Overstock, which *is* Lakeland Toyota. And they said they couldn't get them. They got me one.

 

Where? They are advertised, I'll give you that.

 

Here:

To get the new part number, simply remove the "-84" off the end of the part.

 

No, I mean, they are not available. They will take your address and payment, then send an email saying they are backordered/not available etc. I really am curious because I need one.

 

The hell you say? https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/shaft-assy-fr-drive-434300c010

It's even available from the corporate portal, linking out to the dealerships. If the new, non-reman units were also disco'd, it would show like this at the corporate portal.

​

 

I am not joking. They show to be stocked, but they can't seem to obtain them after the order has been placed (they don't charge your cc immediately) I've tried at least 4 "Toyota" parts providers. It's been a mess for me.

 

My dealership found a couple places that had them but neither were willing to ship and they’re charging about 180 each plus core charge which was 80 bucks. Both located too far to justify the drive but the locations were Auburn CA and Edmunds WA. Auburn has 2 while Edmunds has 1.

 

Could search for some at a yard (if boots aren't ripped) and reboot likely needed anyways if putting on a truck with a lift.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1916#post-3451375

 

Problem persists! Replaced CV Axle (OEM reman from CVJ), replaced oil seal and swapped needle bearing for ECGS bushing. Unfortunately the sound in 2WD is still very apparent and seems to be worse somehow. Went and tested 4WD and the noise is still there same as before loud rotational groan. I’m confident I installed everything correctly. Axle is fully seated, ECGS is flush (made sure to not to over drive) and oil seal isn’t leaking. Axle doesnt have any play. I had greased the driveshafts a few weeks ago and nothing changed. I remember trying to wiggle the shafts and not feeling any play but maybe I grabbed to close it to the transfer case because last night after my test drive I found the front shaft to wobble a lot and make a clanking noise when I went looking for the culprit of the noise. Seems to wobble on the front end of the shaft and I see the movement where the flange meets the diff. Video shows the wobble and the noise but hard to see the play where shaft meets diff. Is there any other tests I can perform before taking it to a shop? There’s a differential/drive shaft shop in town that has good feedback and once issues point to the differential is usually when I ring in the towel. Any ideas are welcome! Here’s the video:
https://youtube.com/shorts/OP01yYzlQdk?si=qO1zrp010a6MT0Tt

 

I mean, it looks almost like you've got a bad u-joint with all that play, did you not check that first?