Did my first DIY oil change today

Really not too bad other than having to drop the TRD skid plate and dealing with the security bolts on the cat shield that also hold up the back of the skid. The only issue with that was that the bit they give you fits loosely into a 1/4" socket and has a propensity for falling out and rolling away... and always just out of reach. I got a spare one of those bits when I bought the cat shield so I am going to take one and epoxy or JB Weld it into a socket. That will make the next change easier. One more note: I believe the oil change kits they sell come with a 15mm ID tube to drain the little oil filter catch pan. I didn't have that but I did have a piece of 5/8" ID tube which worked fine. Not super snug, but snug enough. No muss no fuss. Oh, I am at 1139 miles.

 

how did the oil look at that early miles?

 

Very clean but it did have some color to it which was not really noticeable on the dipstick but when in the drain pan it was brownish. No metal or anything concerning. Maybe I'll cut the old filter open and see if there is anything in there.

 

GTDI's will darken the oil rather quickly from the soot. It wont be like the 1UR or 3UR where the oil comes out clean at 7500 miles lol.

 

The inside of the filter looked pristine. No metal, just a tiny amount of super fine particles. Probably could have gone the full 5,000 miles with no worries, but I like getting one change done early like this anyway.

 

Question for you, what is the oil change kit with the tube you are referencing? Is this a toyota part? If so, you know the part number? Just trying to get my ducks in a row for my first change myself, thanks man!

 

A 15mm or 3/8 hose will work, it’s used the drain the run off from the oil filter. Nothing fancy. About 2 feet of hose is sufficient so it reaches it drain reservoir.

 

Im more curious about what Toyota will find as acceptable proof of work done.

I like to do my own oil changes etc. I keep my spreadsheets up to date with the work done, mileage etc.
How does that prove to Toyota that maintence work was done?

 

https://www.autocare.org/government-relations/current-issues/Magnuson-Moss-Warranty-Act

Edit: Essentially they would have to prove that your work or parts did not meet industry standards or specifications.

 

I used 5/8" which is ~ 16mm. Worked fine. I am not sure 3/8" would stretch on there. But maybe. For some reason box stores seem to only have standard and not metric hoses.

 

I saw it on Amazon, IIRC, but all you really need is a short piece of tubing. 15mm or 5/8" ID. As for removing the filter I have one of those spring jaw types that you use with a 3/8" ratchet that grips the filter tighter as you turn. These tools make removal easy and are essential if you get a really stuck filter. Works only in the loosen direction. That tool has saved my arse a time or 2 working on vehicles where someone had overtightened the filter or it got stuck for some reason. Sometimes the first oil change can be tough if the factory really cranked the filter on. This one was tighter than I like but not too bad.

I was doing an oil change on my mom's Mazda CX-5 a few months ago and found that the filter was stuck but good. Tried all the tricks... cap wrench slipped, pliers and strap wrenches crushed the filter. I didn't try the screwdriver through the filter trick because I have been there and failed with that before. So I drove to the parts store (didn't have my tools with me) and got another spring jaw wrench and that got it. Whew.

To install the new filter on the Tundra I used a standard cap wrench (not sure of the size) to put the new filter on. Too tight and slippery to get my big hands in there to tighten it much that way. Just follow the instructions... spin it on until the gasket makes contact, note a specific piece of text or make a mark on the filter at the 90 degree position and then tighten it until that text or mark comes around and appears at the top, 3/4 of a turn. You can usually safely go to a full turn but no need.

 

I have never had an issue with this but it has been a long time with a long gone Chevy that needed a new engine and the trans rebuilt, among a lot of other stuff for that POS lemon. The dealer never raised the slightest issue. But it is probably a good idea to have receipts for the oil, filters, and other items you get. You can scan them and add them to the spread sheet records. Or screen capture an online receipt and add that. I use a simple MS Access database instead of a spreadsheet and it makes that part pretty easy.

 

Here is a link to the 15mm tubing. This is silicone which is more flexible than the regular clear plastic tubing from the box store. The tubing I used had a permanent curl that made it a bit of a PITA to use. I had to hold it straight to get the oil to drain, else the tube would curl and trap it. So, I am getting one of these silicone tubes. It will make life just a little bit easier.

$15 uxcell Silicone Tube 15mm ID X 20mm OD 3.3' Flexible Silicone Rubber Tubing Water Air Hose Pipe Translucent for Pump Transfer

Amazon.com: uxcell Silicone Tube 15mm ID X 20mm OD 3.3' Flexible Silicone Rubber Tubing Water Air Hose Pipe Translucent for Pump Transfer : Industrial & Scientific

 

Thanks for the info man, much appreciated!

 

No matter what oil I use, I always use a Toyota filter. Their filters are good. I get the filter from the dealer so there is always a record of that purchase with Toyota.

 

You can tell when a vehicle hasn't had oil changes. It's not really going to be an issue in the warranty window unless you literally never do one. It's a long term issue if oil changes aren't done.

 

https://youtu.be/80HWakqR_-Y

 

Just want to commend you op, like 99% time ppl say they will cut the filter in half and show debris, it doesn't happen.

 

Hey, I am retired. Nothing better to do. ;-).

 

How are you cutting up that oil filter anyway? If you use hacksaw, won't that put lots of metal dust in it, so it's harder to see what metal was from the engine and what was from filter can?

 

I think you can use a large pipe cutter so there's no dust

 

I just used a cordless Dremel. Once around a half circle at the base, and then vertically up across and down. The little bit of debris along the cuts is obvious and doesn't really get into the folds of the filter. With these tiny filters you might be able to use a pipe cutter, if you can find a big one.

 

What filter did you run? I want to use a Toyota one for my first change but I remember there was another thread with some part number controversies.

 

I used the YZZF1 that my Toyota dealer sold me. They said it crossed to the other one and it seems to be essentially identical except the YZZF1 is a few mm taller.

 

You can wrap a piece of wire around the tube to keep it straight. An old section of garden hose will also work.

I did my 1st oil change last night at 5K miles. Oil looked good, I wouldn’t be concerned about going 10,000 between changes with Mobil 1, although I’ll probably stick to 5K.

My biggest mistake: deploying the air dam. It’s not needed, because you only need to remove the two rear bolts of the fabric guard, and having it down prevented me from scooting under the front of the truck. Might be different if you have a skid plate.