Different version of skid plate bolt issues

My problem was a variation of the skid plate bolt issues. Super simple stuff, but I’ll share what I did.

Both rear bolts had been replaced with pass thru bolts and a nut. The problem with the pass thru bolt is there is not a good way to get a wrench on the nut. The bolt just spins. Or maybe I’m just slow. I have no idea how someone managed to get them on in the first place.

Pass thru bolts with nut used at both rear skid plate bolts.


No real way to get a wrench on the nut that I could see. Very limited access to the nut.


Tried all versions of pliers, tried long levers to try and get leverage on the nut and get some kind of resistance to hold it in place.

The driver’s side turned out to be easy. A long flat screw driver used as a lever allowed me to get pressure on the skid plate. One hand prying on the screw driver to create preasure, the other hand turning the ratchet. The tension was enough to hold the nut while the bolt turned and backed out.


The same method would not work on the passenger side. I tried all kinds of lengths and angles of pliers and levers. Couldn’t get anything to reach the nut or get enough of a grab. Couldn’t get great pics for this side, but ended up using a magnetic wand to feed a deep socket onto the nut. Had to use a 14 mm socket even though it turned out the nut was 13 mm. Could not get the 13 to slip onto the nut. Dexterity and access was very limited to get to the nut in any functional way.

Once the socket was on the nut, I used 16 inch long needle nose pliers through the top access hole and thankfully they got enough grip on the socket for the bolt to back out. There was no way to get any kind of proper application of a wrench/plier on the nut, or a ratchet on the socket.






Maybe there is a more specialized tool than I have. I tried flex extensions and knuckles, but none had the correct combination of length or angle. In hindsight, maybe a small enough cutting wheel on a rotary tool would have got to the bolt.

Can’t imagine there are many skid plates attached this way. It seems like an equal challenge to get the nut on in the first place.

At some point I’ll tap the hole to get threads. The receiving nuts are still welded on inside the frame, but someone drilled out the threads to allow for the pass thru bolt. I’ll get to it eventually, for now I’ll leave the skid plate off. I’ve gone plenty of stretches in the past with no skid plate

 

You could always weld a new nut on top of the drilled out one, if you or a friend have a welder. Use the pass through bolt to hold it together and align the holes.

 

Ugh, this was my nightmare for months after breaking two of the bolts inside the weldnuts attached to the skidplate. Mine also remained off for months until I had time to finally drill mine out and retap the threads. I also recommend either cutting new, larger threads on those weldnuts or welding on new nuts on top of the old ones with the correct thread size to match the original bolts (or whatever your pass-through bolts are). //Shudder//

The front three all bolt-and-nut onto my new bumper! Easy peasy.

 

The hitch on my 4R had a couple nuts with metal ribbons attached that were about 4 inches long so you could hold the nut in position while you tightened the bolts. Might try a trailer hitch shop to see if they have anything you could use.

 

Good suggestions, thx. @assassin10000 @JasonC. Regarding welding a new nut, it seems like access would again be a challenge? The only access is where the LCA attaches. I guess there is one smaller hole in the frame from above as well.

I’ll get to it later than sooner. It’s not at the top of the list yet. Might could also get it clean enough on top of the weldnut to use epoxy to attach a new nut instead of welding.

 

You may want to look into whether someone makes a rivnut that large. I know they make a 1/2” rivnut, I’ve had to use one before. Wondering if that’s not the best option here.

 

I use U-nuts and a metal tab with a hole drilled in it. The metal tab sits inside the U-nut. The metal tab needs to be long enough where it catches on the frame, just have to stick your hand up in there to steady it while you first thread the bolt in. You could also weld a nut on said tab instead of using the U-nut, but same idea otherwise. Has worked pretty well for me over the last few years.

$18 25 Extruded U Nuts M8-1.25 Screw Size - Compatible with GM and Ford

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040D2OGQ?ie=UTF8

• 

 

We used these and capture nuts quite frequently in technology installs and trade show setups.

 

I wouldn’t go crazy and just remove the nut and put an extra long bolt in the frame pointing threads down towards the skid plate and use a loctited nut to hold it in place.

Then when going to put on the skid plate, use another nut instead. Easy peasy.

 

Depends on how the clearance is. You'd do it with the skidplate off so there would be room.

It only needs one or two solid tacks to hold it anyways.

 

Nice. Thx. I haven’t used Rivnuts before. Fun learning new tools/techniques/etc. I’ll see which one seems most practical, including tapping new threads