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Digressive vs progressive or linear

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Brocksw, Mar 30, 2019.

  1. Mar 30, 2019 at 1:24 PM
    #1
    Brocksw

    Brocksw [OP] New Member

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    Gotten some feedback on another thread but would like a little more on the best style for my driving.

    New suspension would be used as follows.

    Where I push my suspension the most is at hwy speeds on gravel like 65 or 70+ mph. Washboard gravel at 55 or 60. Forests service roads and trails with the big potholes and wash outs at 35 or 40+.

    I feel like those are the places I want my suspension to handle the best because those are situations where I cringe a little bit taking hits to the stock suspension. Lots of two track stuff that's not really rutted and seems smooth for stretches but then you just hit some bigger bumps that jolt the truck at 40 mph.

    Not doing much crawling over rocks, not doing big bumps or dunes at high speeds. Just rough roads at higher speeds and then as a daily driver around town.

    Digressive or progressive?
     
  2. Mar 31, 2019 at 5:09 AM
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    Mdjamesd

    Mdjamesd New Member

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  3. Mar 31, 2019 at 6:56 AM
    #3
    Danman34

    Danman34 New Member

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    High speed wash board, loose gravel, non “whoop” jumping...all around daily driving comfort..digressive.

    High speed whoops, jumps, progressive.
     
  4. Mar 31, 2019 at 8:43 AM
    #4
    Brocksw

    Brocksw [OP] New Member

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    Accutune puts it differently.... This shit is why I can't make up my mind.

    Screenshot_20190331-104151_Chrome.jpg
     
  5. Mar 31, 2019 at 10:44 AM
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    Danman34

    Danman34 New Member

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    I was thinking linear when I typed progressive. Haha.
     
  6. Mar 31, 2019 at 10:48 AM
    #6
    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    Nope.

    Digressive is terrible for washboard and down right uncomfortable around town with any non-perfectly smooth surface. You have to overcome the shim preload before the shock smooths out.

    OP, you want progressive. Honestly there’s no good reason to run digressive for a truck. Digressive characteristics work well on track vehicles or cars that have short shaft travel.
     
  7. Mar 31, 2019 at 11:09 AM
    #7
    KnuckleHD

    KnuckleHD New Member

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    I feel like every day I read conflicting points of view on this... I can see why the OP is confused.
    How are the stock Bilsteins valved, digressive? What about the TRD Pro bilsteins? Everyone seems to be happy with how those perform on road as well as off-road.
     
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  8. Mar 31, 2019 at 11:19 AM
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    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    That’s because damping characteristics have a ton of variables. A digressive or progressive piston is only one variable. You also have shock valving (which in itself has endless options), free bleeds, nitrogen pressure, emulsion vs. IFP, non-resi vs. resi, oil viscosity, resi placement (top of shock or bottom), bypass options, IBP options, single and dual clicker options, yadda yadda yadda.

    Just because someone is happy with how a shock performs on or off road doesn’t mean they have experience with any other shock setup. I can valve a set of Kings that will blow your mind, or I can valve it so that you hate every minute of driving. And it will be the exact same shock except valve shims.
     
  9. Mar 31, 2019 at 11:31 AM
    #9
    chamyota

    chamyota New Member

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    Subbed for when i invariably decide to mod my stock Tundra. @jberry813 :wave: didnt know you were a mod here too lol
     
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  10. Mar 31, 2019 at 11:37 AM
    #10
    Danman34

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    While I won’t disagree. Swapping to 6112/5160s has damn near eliminated the bounce on wash board roads. The faster I go, the smoother it feels. And the truck all around handles better and rides far more comfortable than the stock TRD red bilsteins.
     
  11. Mar 31, 2019 at 11:40 AM
    #11
    Tundra_361

    Tundra_361 New Member

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    I have Icons which are digressive and they are smooth as butter. Have 1.5 inches of preload.
     
  12. Mar 31, 2019 at 11:47 AM
    #12
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    The Bilsteins Pros are digressive. When driving slow they are a bit stiff over bumps. It does make it a little nice around corners on the streets though. Basically they tend to smooth out when you go faster. But of course there are limits to that, too fast and you will bottom out. I went off-roading recently, at first when I was going slow it was really bumpy. When I stepped up the pace, it smoothed way out. (Wifey no likey)So my options were to drive really slow to keep it smooth or to jam out! LOL. What did help was letting air out of the tires and it gave me a happy medium. A nice set of progressive shocks, would’ve probably given me the best performance slow or fast. I haven’t ever tried a set of progressive shocks out so I’m guessing by what I’ve read. I would imagine a set of progressive shocks set up for the dirt would be a little wallowing on the street, especially with the swaybars disconnected. That’s why I would probably want some clickers and have someone set them up just for my liking.
     
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  13. Mar 31, 2019 at 11:50 AM
    #13
    KnuckleHD

    KnuckleHD New Member

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    Yikes, that is a lot. Thanks for sharing though, looks like I have a little reading up to do before I make any large purchases. Although I suppose it makes sense as to why so many people are running Kings.
     
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  14. Mar 31, 2019 at 1:04 PM
    #14
    Brocksw

    Brocksw [OP] New Member

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    Elka 2.5 reservoir front(+3") and rear, JBA UCAs, toytec +1.5" shackle, Falken Wildpeak 285/75r18.
    So if I go ADS 2.5 resi should I specify a certain type of valving for my driving? If so what do I specify. I'd order from @M C M
     
  15. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:04 PM
    #15
    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    After spending 10+ hours trying to rebuild and revalve my friends ADS shocks this week (whom he incidentally bought from MCM), I’ll never recommend MCM Matt or ADS ever again. MCM ghosted my friend after he sold the coilovers, in every possible way. Phone calls, voicemails, emails, IG DM, you name it. Straight ghosted. There were obvious issues the second I opened them up. No loc-tite on the seal cap set screws, two of which backed out completely and are out in the desert somewhere. Shaft travel was way wrong and after I opened them up I found out why. Shaft spacers were WAY wrong and the valving sucked ass. Was set up extremely light on rebound and compression (which explained the damping characteristics I experienced). Clicker orifice was cross threaded and broke off. Three phone calls to ADS (during the week no less) and never a call back. Your money, your truck, but after the hell I went through this week, I’m done with ADS.

    31F156DA-B0D6-4806-B723-BDB3326F9BD5.jpg 0D1F3C18-89AC-4C2B-A1B4-5650C55F269A.jpg 3EBD429A-634A-4DFE-A603-06A1517855C7.jpg
     
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  16. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:06 PM
    #16
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

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    Jason I thoroughly appreciate the time you’ve put into this thread. Good learning!
     
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  17. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:11 PM
    #17
    Brocksw

    Brocksw [OP] New Member

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    Elka 2.5 reservoir front(+3") and rear, JBA UCAs, toytec +1.5" shackle, Falken Wildpeak 285/75r18.
    What do you recommend? I live in ND so corrosion resistance is a concern for me. I do plan on trying to keep them washed once a month in the winter and using fluid film but I'm not the most consistent with that preventative maintenance.
     
  18. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:13 PM
    #18
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Chillin' in Alamosa

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    Jason knows his stuff better than anyone and actually explains it so us laymen can understand .
     
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  19. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:13 PM
    #19
    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    Depends on your needs and what you use the truck for. I’m a King fanboy in general. But I understand what you mean about corrosion resistance as I live in Lake Tahoe. This might be worth a read:
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/everything-elka-and-how-they-compare.39659/
     
  20. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:16 PM
    #20
    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    Black Wolf and Brocksw[OP] like this.
  21. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:18 PM
    #21
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    If I ever go big in the shock department it will probably be Kings with clickers, but Elkas’s sound nice too.
     
  22. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:38 PM
    #22
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Chillin' in Alamosa

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    Maybe this should be a sticky thread.
     
  23. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:39 PM
    #23
    Brocksw

    Brocksw [OP] New Member

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    Elka 2.5 reservoir front(+3") and rear, JBA UCAs, toytec +1.5" shackle, Falken Wildpeak 285/75r18.
    So from reading... You think elka would be better for corrosion resistance.. The shaft diameter seems fine for my use. I have stock bumper with no plans for a heavy aftermarket... The 700 lb springs seem like a bit much for stock weight up front. Also the elka seems like fox in regards to full droop and UCAs. I'd need to get a UCA if I want to go over 2" of lift according to wheelers offroads website. Honestly I couldn't afford UCAs this go round. They'd have to wait until later this year.

    Price seems to be about the same for king vs elka front resis with no clicker... 1500 - 1600.
     
  24. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:43 PM
    #24
    Black Wolf

    Black Wolf Chillin' in Alamosa

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    @Bailey has been breaking in a set of Elka's during his travels.
     
  25. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:53 PM
    #25
    Brocksw

    Brocksw [OP] New Member

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    I may need to call elka tomorrow and check lift height... I'm running a narrow tire 285/75r18...so I might be able to run the factory preset of 2.75" and not have to worry about a UCA until I can afford one. I presume they spec most of this stuff for 12.5 tires
     
  26. Mar 31, 2019 at 2:58 PM
    #26
    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    Aluminum doesn’t rust like steel. Yes it can oxidize and discolor, but not like steel.

    I ran my Elkas with 700# springs without a plate front bumper for almost 6 months. Just don’t go too aggressive on the preload and it’s fine.

    Any coilover over 2” of lift I would recommend aftermarket UCAs. Manufacture doesn’t matter. It’s all the same stock mount points and geometry. Aftermarket UCAs correct caster issues at ride height and can allow for additional travel at full drop depending on what is binding.

    Don’t assume they are set at 2.75” from the factory. Mine damn sure were not. A tape measure is cheap. Every truck is different. Hell, how much gas you have in your truck will make a difference. A full 38 gallon gas tank is 240 pounds.
     
  27. Mar 31, 2019 at 3:00 PM
    #27
    Brocksw

    Brocksw [OP] New Member

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    So you're running yours at 2" level with 35" rubber?
     
  28. Mar 31, 2019 at 3:02 PM
    #28
    jberry813

    jberry813 The Mad Scientist Staff Member

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    Yep. You can fit 35s on stock suspension. Again it’s all the same mount points and geometry. Adding preload to lift the front just raises ride height. Doesn’t change the geometry when you dive into a driveway or full lock full bump.
     
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  29. Mar 31, 2019 at 3:06 PM
    #29
    Brocksw

    Brocksw [OP] New Member

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    Elka 2.5 reservoir front(+3") and rear, JBA UCAs, toytec +1.5" shackle, Falken Wildpeak 285/75r18.
    Thank you! That is super convenient for my wallet and marriage... I can run elka at 2" level and not spend anything on the rear until later this year.

    Best place to buy elka? Looks like toytec and wheelers off road are the only places that carry them but toytec only has the front and rear sets.
     
  30. Apr 9, 2019 at 9:22 PM
    #30
    M C M

    M C M New Member

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    I have never ghosted someone like that. I may miss emails and forgot to respond, but never just ghost someone. Middle of last year I had gotten really behind while moving shops, and my customer service had definitely declined, and I have addressed that before.
     
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