DIY: Tint your tail/signal lights with Pro result from a spray can!

I know this has been done to death but as with anything that seems easy, there is probably more wrong information out there (the internet in general, not tundras.com)

But this is a piggy back on my thread about getting body shop results from a spray can.

I did some exterior body parts here with great results

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-to-get-great-results-from-rattle-can-paint-tons-of-pics.51748/

Very similar procedure with tinting/smoking tail lights and turn signals

So I did some OEM tail lights on my second gen and the LED side markers from the OEM tow mirrors and snapped some photos along the way.

Everything I use is available at your local auto parts store or Amazon. no special tools needed. just time and patience.

supplies:
various grits of sandpaper from 400-2000
vht nite shades
masking tape
tack cloth
2k automotive clear coat

Start by removing the lights from the vehicle. Please remove them, it makes everything much easier and cleaner. no chance of over spray and just plain makes more sense.

Once removed we can begin.

1.) clean and scuff. clean off any dirt and residue with a good washing or glass cleaner. wet sand with 400 grit. this will remove scratches and anything stuck to the lenses. make sure the light is dull and all the shine is gone. rinse and allow to dry.





****NOTE: on my tail lights, I wanted to keep the bottom portion clear, So I sanded the entire lens, then tapped off the clear portion to only keep the red exposed to be tinted.***

2.) clean and prep. I use a wax and grease remover and rubbing alcohol to prep the surface. allow to fully dry. wipe with a tack cloth.

3.) Spray time. using light coats began to tint the lenses, like any paint job, start with edges and work your way around, then cover your larger flat areas.

one coat


three coats


it might look a little dark but there is a method to my madness. Allow to dry at least 24 hours. this will allow a full cure and any gasses to vent.

3.) Once dry this is where we get really involved. color sanding the tint coat. grab some 2000 grit and wet sand to a smooth even finish. all paint is the same, the smoother the finish the better the final product will be. this is where we level out the darkness too. if the paint was applied evenly and you sand evenly all will be fine.

this is where your techniques will be tested. remember you are applying a translucent paint. so if it is applied un evenly, it will show. parts will be lighter or darker. same goes with sanding. if you sand too much in one are, that area will show more light through.





****Note, the tails look shiny because it was just rinsed. water is a nice indicator or what the final product will look like****

now remember, when sanding be mindful of edges and corners. paint is naturally thinner at these places. on the side marker lights I only sanded the flat surface. I can live with orange peel on the edges which will hardly be seen. risk vs reward. risk of sanding through the tint not worth the reward of a perfectly smooth edge.

the home stretch!

4.) 2k automotive clear. this is the magic in a can! this will take an average paint job and make it look like a average body shop did it. Clean and prep them again. wax and grease remover.

****Please take note, I used rubbing alcohol on a white paper towel and it showed black on the towel like it was rubbing off. I immediately stopped, but it showed like the area I wiped remained "wet" like a streak. it would not dry. I ended up clearing and all turned out fine. But I would recommend not wiping VHT nite shades with rubbing alcohol.***

wipe with tack cloth

2k clear likes to be applied in medium wet coats. start with an initial dusting tack coat, wait 10 min and apply medium wet coats in 10 minute intervals. 3-4 coats will do the trick











some custom "thin blue line" emblems I did as well.



5.) optional. to take the lights to the ultimate level! wet sand buff the clear coat. allow the 2k clear to fully cure. I would prefer a few days in the sun. Then bust out the 2000 grit again and level the clear coat with a nice even wet sand. the 3 or 4 coats you applied earlier will be plenty to level it off. buff and polish with your prefer method and brands.

6.) apply your favorite wax to preserve the paint

the 2k clear has UV protectors in it so your lights will not fade and can be treated like any painted surface. clean and wax like the rest of your vehicle. no fading at all.

I did a set just like this on my 2008 mustang and they still look new and polish the same as my paint!

enjoy!

 

Love the Blue Line on the Tundra emblem.

 

Thanks.

I was a little upset at the sharpness of my tape line in some places as well as a spot I sanded through the base coat and hit primer.

But I finished it with clear and will live with them.

I may start claiming all the chrome emblems from members on here who de-badge and doing the thin blue line treatment and shipping them to LEOs on here as a thank you.

 

Wish I didn't give my chrome emblems away, I would do that in a heartbeat.

 

Just got my Night Shade and Clear cost in the mail. I’m hoping to get this done this weekend.

 

Awesome! Post pics when finished