Do I need a specific sway bar link?

Hello everyone Im new here and have learned a TON about my truck in the short time Ive been here, so thank you. First, I know this topic has been covered, but answers vary.Ive owned my tundra since 2007 with very low miles, Im now at 150k and its time to do some upgrades. For front suspension i decided to go with pre assembled 5100 bilstein coilovers with the emu coils, adding 1.5 inches of lift. When I looked under the truck i realized my sway bar link bushing on both ends of the sway bar had "pulled through", and are separated from the bar. So my question is with the lift do i need a specific sway link bar like the ones from summit racing? or should i go with the standard stock options? what is the preferred replacement for the sway links? Do i need the sway bar? Also any recs on brake pads? mights as well change it all while im in there. Thanks!!!

 

heres a pic...

 

For brakes you can't beat powerstop Z36, they're what I use and they're great.

 

great thx. no thoughts on links?

 

Links are broken (not pulled through)... if not lifted, then stock ones will work fine

 

My son's 06 Dbl Cab also has right at 150k miles. For the front brakes, I resurfaced the OEM rotors and installed Hawk LTS pads. For the rear went with OEM Drums and Shoes, aftermarket spring kit and AC Delco wheel cylinders. Once adjustments to the rear drums/shoes were dialed in, brakes are better than when I bought truck new in Jan 07'. As for sway bar links, we're still on OEM setup. I installed Bilstein 5100's in middle setting on stock coil (around 1.4in lift) and think the stock sway bar/links are holding up fine. Maybe just replace with standard OEM/aftermarket ones IMO.

 

As mentioned, the stock end links should be fine with minimal lift. I just did this job last week and want to mention that you will likely have to cut the lower link nut and bolt off in order to remove the end link. The lower link will rotate in the socket preventing the nut from turning off.

I wasn't able to clamp the link well enough with vice grips to remove the nut so had to use an angle grinder to cut the nut and bolt. This video shows the process well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crJkg4-qlGQ

 

great responses thx everyone

 

I would go with Moog. They're cheaper and warrantied for life; just hold onto the receipt.

You can get them at advanced auto or elsewhere online. I've had my 2nd set for several years now.

 

Either stock length or these, I've had both and liked both. The suspension maxx are a little finicky to install

https://www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/p873/Suspension-Maxx-Extended-Sway-Bar-Links.html#/

 

Yeah, links are broke. Go Moog on these. They are built well and are really cheap.

Only reason I say Moog is because they are easy swap when they fail again, and new OEM is close to $500.

Everything else always use OEM.

 

https://overlandcustomdesign.com/co...l-joint-sway-bar-links?variant=37312879657126

 

If truck is lifted should I be getting longer ones?

 

At somewhere between 2" your swaybar links become a limiting factor. More info on this can be found in the "Suspension, wheel and tires ..." section OVER HERE.

Edit: SuspensionMAXX makes a great regular-length link and extended link for our trucks. Here's the part#s for stock-length and 1"-3" lift, underlined in blue:

​

 

Altho going on a year old, i read this w/interest of "bang 4buck".

My 06 AC 2wd still has its OEM End links w/173k. Since im staying on pavement w/out any lift mods or wheel upsizing, is MOOG [beckarnley] acceptable quality for End Links?

Im refreshing a lot of stuff other than my OEM LBJs [bilstein 4600, Steer OutRods, Boots, Swaybar bushings and maybe PS soft lines] so, my $$meter is approaching redline. I see Toy OEM [$73 per] makes SuspensionMaxx look like platinum; how many notches down are Moogs [$50] for correct fit/function, longevity compared to others [near bottom shelf?] ??

 

The only non OEM chassis parts I would buy would be Moog Sway Bar links. I have three first gen’s in my driveway all running them, and all three are holding up great. My Tundra has about 108k on them and they look new.

The new design gets rid of the bushings and uses a plastic cup looking thing.